help me spend money on all grain setup

[EmDubeu]

I've been brewing since January of this year. I've brewed several batches of extract and now I'm ready to move to all grain. I have $1000 to spend on equipment. I would like to build a horizontal brewstand with pumps, stainless steel cam and lock fittings, stainless steel mash tun and hlt (I already have a 15 gallon blichmann boilermaker as a BK and a blichmann burner).

If you were me, and you had $1000 to spend what equipment would you buy? Feel free to spend my virtual money...

 

[Jaybird]

Might I suggest 1 joining HBT as a member. 2 entering the Nor Cal 18.75 gallon kettle giveaway. Winning it and then all you need is a HLT. When you win the kettle I will be happy to put a couple of pumps in the kettle and a weldless spigot and sightglass kit for your new HLT in the shipment. Just a thought.
If that's out of the question....Are you wanting to use kegs or kettles? are you building stuff yourself or (are you handy) or just store bought? I would LOVE to spend your money... LOL

I'm a big fan of the keggle MLT with a 15" reversed hinge false bottom and a level 1 stand and dip tube systems from Nor Cal Brewing Solutions...


You asked...LOL ha ha ha all in good fun man!
Good luck on the build.

Cheers
Jay

 

[bethebrew]

I've been brewing since January of this year. I've brewed several batches of extract and now I'm ready to move to all grain. I have $1000 to spend on equipment. I would like to build a horizontal brewstand with pumps, stainless steel cam and lock fittings, stainless steel mash tun and hlt (I already have a 15 gallon blichmann boilermaker as a BK and a blichmann burner).

If you were me, and you had $1000 to spend what equipment would you buy? Feel free to spend my virtual money...

Can you go vertical? I just used cinder blocks, cheap and easy to stack and stable unless you live in earthquake areas. Just pull my kettles off and store them away, the cinder blocks are weatherproof, and fireproof, and zero problem putting burners on. Anyway homebrewstuff.com has good prices on heavy duty 15 gallon hlt and mash tuns. On sale right now. They got a lot of cool other stuff too.

http://www.homebrewstuff.com/brewin...ng-kettles-heavy-duty-15-gallon-60-quart.html

 

[EmDubeu]

Might I suggest 1 joining HBT as a member. 2 entering the Nor Cal 18.75 gallon kettle giveaway. Winning it and then all you need is a HLT. When you win the kettle I will be happy to put a couple of pumps in the kettle and a weldless spigot and sightglass kit for your new HLT in the shipment. Just a thought.
If that's out of the question....Are you wanting to use kegs or kettles? are you building stuff yourself or (are you handy) or just store bought? I would LOVE to spend your money... LOL

I'm a big fan of the keggle MLT with a 15" reversed hinge false bottom and a level 1 stand and dip tube systems from Nor Cal Brewing Solutions...


You asked...LOL ha ha ha all in good fun man!
Good luck on the build.

Cheers
Jay

I am handy and I will be building my all grain setup myself. I'm open to kettles or keg. I've been researching all the threads at HBT for months and now I just need to put my shopping list together (then buy all of it :rockin.

 

[EmDubeu]

Can you go vertical? I just used cinder blocks, cheap and easy to stack and stable unless you live in earthquake areas. Just pull my kettles off and store them away, the cinder blocks are weatherproof, and fireproof, and zero problem putting burners on. Anyway homebrewstuff.com has good prices on heavy duty 15 gallon hlt and mash tuns. On sale right now. They got a lot of cool other stuff too.

http://www.homebrewstuff.com/brewin...ng-kettles-heavy-duty-15-gallon-60-quart.html

I would rather go horizontal (twss ). I'm not going for a ghetto look either - no offense. I'd like to make my set up look good as well as function well.

 

[billl]

Not to be a wet blanket, but I wouldn't spend a grand on fancy equipment yet. If you haven't brewed an AG batch, you have no idea what you like or what would make your brew day easier/faster/more enjoyable. It really doesn't make sense to buy HLT, sparge arms etc only to find out you prefer batch sparging because it is so much faster and easier.

Also, if you don't have fermentation temp control yet, that would be a priority over other gear.

 

[EmDubeu]

Not to be a wet blanket, but I wouldn't spend a grand on fancy equipment yet. If you haven't brewed an AG batch, you have no idea what you like or what would make your brew day easier/faster/more enjoyable. It really doesn't make sense to buy HLT, sparge arms etc only to find out you prefer batch sparging because it is so much faster and easier.

Also, if you don't have fermentation temp control yet, that would be a priority over other gear.

Good points, Bill. I do have a very elaborate fermentation chamber. I can remotely control the temperature of the chamber from any browser. I use a bunch of components from iobridge.com. So, I got that covered...

I guess my goal for the Extract to AG is to focus on stainless HLT and mash tun kettles. No sparge arm just yet - I'm with ya on the batch sparging. I'd like to pick up some march pumps, and cam/groove fittings. I might even consider an electric element to assist the HLT in getting up to temp (http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-element-kits). This could be an add on to my kettle down the road...

What do you all think about the Bayou Classic kettles (15 gallon) for both a mash tun and HLT? Similar to this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ASIN=B0082X3D06&linkCode=as2&tag=hombrefin-20

Thanks for all the advice!

 

[billl]

Before you start buying, I think you need to set some goals of what you want your brew day to look like. You seem to have all the technical skills to build a fancy rig, so you have tons of options.

When and where are you going to brew? Do you have time constraint on your brewdays that would impact design? (eg billion btu burners vs more gentle heating) What ambient temp range are we talking about? That makes a huge difference in keeping your mash tun at the desired temp. Gonna try to do any 5 gallon batches or just 10? Are you planning to mostly brew alone or with friends? (mobility and automation issues? vs free labor) Any space constraints? How's your water? Need filtering options?

 

[bethebrew]

I would rather go horizontal (twss ). I'm not going for a ghetto look either - no offense. I'd like to make my set up look good as well as function well.

When that judge tastes your beer, they won't have a clue how good your system looks. Only how good your beer tastes.

 

[Lost_Arkitekt]

Why is everyone raining on this guy's parade for? Advice is good, and opinions on all these things are like a**holes. I just got into a discussion about IPAs, Double IPAs and the like from a bar manager/friend of mine. Can't I just buy a decent session beer at a bar now? However, all that everyone talks about is "IPA". Same goes with brewing setups. People will argue about this all the time.

I just built a gravity, 3-tier system because I didn't have the money to spend on a single tier, pump fed system. However, I'll give advice because I JUST brewed (last night) with my new system. There are tons of tweaks, but overall, I was extremely happy with it. As an architect/designer, I could design/think about things all day, but sometimes you have to put the rubber to the road.

If it were me, I'd make a keggle system (I just like them), I'd also remember (as a furniture designer speaking) to build the height of your system LOWER than counter height because the kettles will be so tall. I'm almost 6'5", so I'd say build the frame at around 26" tall. Next, I'd definitely go with sanitary fittings from Brewer's Hardware. I personally didn't have good service with my first order from them, but I've heard that was the exception. Automated controls from Brewer's Hardware would be good, too.

Stainless stand isn't paramount, but I'd get it powder coated with high temp powder coating or spray about 4 coats of engine manifold, ceramic paint on it. I had mine powder coated with regular powder coating (because I was having other stuff done, too, and the parts around the burner just burned off on first brewing.

I'd also make sure all my fittings were TIG welded instead of weldless fittings. This just made everything on my new rig a lot better. I could go on and on, but this is what I'll start with.

PS (That is not me in the pic...it is a friend and brew partner.)

 

[EmDubeu]

Before you start buying, I think you need to set some goals of what you want your brew day to look like. You seem to have all the technical skills to build a fancy rig, so you have tons of options.

When and where are you going to brew? Do you have time constraint on your brewdays that would impact design? (eg billion btu burners vs more gentle heating) What ambient temp range are we talking about? That makes a huge difference in keeping your mash tun at the desired temp. Gonna try to do any 5 gallon batches or just 10? Are you planning to mostly brew alone or with friends? (mobility and automation issues? vs free labor) Any space constraints? How's your water? Need filtering options?

Those are all good things to consider! I have the space in my garage that is set aside for brewing. I'm thinking about casters on the brewstand mostly for ease of cleaning around it, rather than moving out to another location (on or off site). I plan on doing 10 gallon batches, as that is what I'm doing now (damn expensive with extract, btw). I also filter my water, merely because I like the taste better than the tap water. I also live in the northwest so our water doesn't require any mineral additives.

 

[jsmoon888]

I wish my hlt was automated and some digital thermometers on the vessels would be cool too but my homemade two tier makes good beer. Banjo burners would be quieter too.

 

[EmDubeu]

I wish my hlt was automated and some digital thermometers on the vessels would be cool too but my homemade two tier makes good beer. Banjo burners would be quieter too.

I like the diamond plate.

 

[jsmoon888]

I like the diamond plate.

It was left over from my fridge build.

 

[billl]

" I'm thinking about casters on the brewstand mostly for ease of cleaning around it, rather than moving out to another location (on or off site)."

Just so you know, propane burners kick off a LOT of heat. Definitely plan on some wind shields to direct that upward as much as possible. Even then, you are going to want to move the rig away from any other surfaces in your garage. eg you don't want the stand pushed up against the wall when the burners are on.

Also, since you seem like the type of guy who might potentially automate more of the process, you should choose your burners with that in mind. (Most of the big monster, high pressure burners do not play well with automation. )

 

[EmDubeu]

Well, here's my update on the progress of my all grain brew setup.

I'm going with a typical horizontal brew stand that will accommodate a Hot Liquor Tank and a Mash Tun (both are 15.5 gallon keggles), as well as a 15 gallon Blichmann BoilerMaker Brew Kettle (15 gallons, too). My brew buddy is a Mechanical Engineer and he specializes in stainless steel (perfect!). He and I just finished the design and the stand will be welded in early January. The brew stand will also have two chuggar pumps (I have one at the moment, but I still need to buy one more).

For the HLT, I went with a HERMS setup. I also added a 2000 watt element with a weldless fitting to heat the water (this is controlled by a Johnson A419 temperature controller that is mounted in a custom built control box). The thermometer probe from the A419 temperature controller is placed in a 4 inch thermowell on the side of the HLT. All the valves, fittings, thermowell, Cam and Groove fittings came from Bobby at www.brewhardware.com. I went with 3 piece stainless steel valves and 1/2 inch ID dip tubes. The stainless steel coil for the HERMS came from stainlessbrewing.com (great price and excellent workmanship). I put together some cam/groove fittings, a stainless steel tee and CDN digital thermometers to connect to the in and out ports of the herms coil so that I can accurately measure the wort temp going into and out of the HLT. I also added a sight glass with incorporated tee and thermometer.

For the Mash Tun, I again went to Bobby’s site, brewhardware.com, and purchased a stainless steel false bottom, ½ inch ID dip tube, 3 piece valves, a Mash Recirculation Return Tube, and a sight glass. Because I’m recirculating the wort through the HERMS system, I don’t have to use LP gas on the Mash Tun while I’m mashing.

For the boil kettle, I’m using a 15 gallon Blichmann Boilermaker with sight glass, brewmometer, and whirlpool valve. I also picked up a Hop Spider from www.stainlessbrewing.com.

And finally, to chill the boiling wort to a cool 68 degrees, I bought a stainless steel convoluted cross flow chiller from williamsbrewing.com. The chilled wort goes into either of my two 15.5 sanke kegs converted with a Cornelius keg top fermenters. I picked up these beauties off craigslist for $60 a piece. ( I also got a Fail To Obey Traffic Device photo ticket on my way back from picking them up. So I'll need to tack on an extra $260 to the price)...

To date, I've only brewed on the system once. I brewed my first 5 gallon all grain Amber Ale. I’m drinking it as I type this. It turned out well, but some improvement in efficiency is needed.

 

[EmDubeu]

Here are some more pics. One of them is my hopback that I built.

 

[EmDubeu]

and some more (I'm proud of my baby, can't you tell)...

 

[EmDubeu]

By the way, I totally blew my $1,000 budget... by a few thousand.

 

[Tutsbrew]

By the way, I totally blew my $1,000 budget... by a few thousand.

That's nothing. I blew my $300 budget by several hundred. On the other hand, the beer I make/drink is less expensive overall!

 

[EmDubeu]

Side shot of the electric element in the HLT. I can get 9 gallons of 65° water to 170° in 1 hour and 20 minutes.

 

[Lost_Arkitekt]

Awesome setup. My only question is why you would have a sight glass on a Mash Tun. I may be going against the grain here, but couldn't you just subtract the amount of water in the HLT to get volume in the MT? Then, you wouldn't have to worry about all the crap in the mash getting into the sight glass. Or, do you have that screened off somehow? Maybe it is below the false bottom? Just curious. Not a big issue.

Also, what is the flip top stainless canister with an elbow and screen? Is that your own hop back design? I find it pretty interesting.

Cheers!

 

[EmDubeu]

Lost_Arkitekt - I have a sight glass on the mash tun for ease of measuring the strike water. The sight glass opening is below the false bottom. It's not necessary, but it just makes it easier.
The flip top stainless steel canister is my hop back design. I can fit about 3 oz of hop leaves in it and hot wort will pass through it on its way to the chiller.

 

[ShadyBrewer]

Very nice setup!

 

[Lost_Arkitekt]

Could you take some closer images? I wanna steal that from you!

 

[EmDubeu]

I just spent the past 5 hours with my brew buddy, who's a mechanical engineer, designing the brew stand. I'll post some of the design images shortly.

 

[EmDubeu]

Could you take some closer images? I wanna steal that from you!

 

[EmDubeu]

More close ups of the hop back

 

[EmDubeu]

Last one

 

[EmDubeu]

Another one for good measure

 

[EmDubeu]

Here's the first image of my horizontal brew stand. I'll post the updates from today in a sec... The updated version has renderings for chugger pumps, pump splash shields, as well as removable burner "heat wash" covers.

 

[EmDubeu]

Here's the new rendering (it's missing the casters for some reason).

The long vertical bar is for mounting a Pot Filling Faucet on. This faucet will fill the HLT and MT with water.

Each of the burners will have a stainless steel cover with an 11 inch diameter hole cut into it. This will prevent the heat from the burners from washing up the keggle. These covers are removable to wash and access the top of the burner.

The chugger pumps will have splash guards on them to prevent any liquids from dripping on the pumps. The pumps can be moved forward or backward to accommodate a horizontal or vertical pump head installation.

The control box will be mounted on the left side. This will control the HLT temperature for the HERMS and also turn on/off pumps and accessories.

So here's the best things. All the stainless steel will be purchased at cost from my buddy's company. We will pay one of his builders to laser cut all the parts and press all the angles (he takes cash and beer as payment). I'll be posting images of the build progress as it's made.

 

[EmDubeu]

here's a couple of shots with the burner cover on and off.

 

[EmDubeu]

Here's a few images of the final rendering of my brew stand. My buddy and I will be working with the fabrication shop to laser cut and bend all the parts. This image is with the kettles off and kettle heat shields removed. I also modeled the burner windshields after blichmanns design.

 

[EmDubeu]

Here's a design image with the removable top plates in place.

 

[EmDubeu]

Here's an image with the burner heat covers in place.

 

[EmDubeu]

with kettles and some dimensions

 

[EmDubeu]

We're going to crank out some additional chugger/march pump covers made from 20 gauge 201 stainless steel. The shields will fit both chugger and march pumps. I'm going to sell them for $20 each. PM me if you are interested.

 

[EmDubeu]

Here's the latest design. I'll be going to the build process next week. I'll post pics and video.

 

[EmDubeu]

Here's an update to the design. We added a flat panel TV mount as the control box mounting arm. This gives us high articulation of the control box. We also added peizo igniters to each burner which are ignited by a battery powered spark igniter module with push-button activator. And finally we added covers over the peizo electrodes that help to "collect" the propane so the burner will ignite easier.