Help me pick out some equipment!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jeffries55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2013
Messages
224
Reaction score
180
Location
Cincinnati
Well, exactly as the title says! I started brewing all-grain (yeah, jumped right into it with a keggle) in March/May of this year and have bottled 61 gallons ytd. Over that time I've made a lot of good beer, and a lot of crappy beer.. I've got a good 10 gal coolman cooler mashtun with FB and blichmann valve/sparge head, so my focus now is on fine tuning everything else so that I'm consistently making good beer!

Firstly, I don't have temperature control... I'm slightly embarrassed to admit how much beer I've made without it, as my last few brews turned out god-aweful (medicinal, alcohol, fusel messes). My second issue i've been dealing with has been under-pitching the yeasties (my starters havent been sufficient i've learned after talking to the guys at Madtree).

With that said, I'm looking for advice & suggestions on the following:

  1. Temperature Control - Controller
  2. Freezer (Anyone have recommendations on what size fits at least two or maybe even three 5 gallon ale pails?)
  3. Plate Chiller (Therminator?)
  4. Pump (http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/the-steelhead-pump.html)
  5. Kegging Equipment (the whole nine yards.. are ball lock better? New or reconditioned?)

I've been browsing craigslist and the for-sale section here lately, and I've got a few hundred bucks to drop on all this stuff, but being the thrifty bunch that we all are, I figured I would ask here first.. particularly not sure about the pump and the plate chiller. Also not sure if it's worth mentioning with the pump / chiller, but I typically do IPA's and have lots of hop sediment after the boil.. I'm concerned about it getting stuck through the pump and chiller... I currently use a 1/2"ball valve and have never had a problem.

Cheers!
 
First off congrats on the massive amount of beer you are consuming!

As for the flavors your receiving "medicinal, alcohol, fusel messes" the first one could be because of you water, sanitation, over use of bleach. Make sure you keeping things clean and check your process if your brewing constantly and you have batches in between that are mediciny something is wrong with the process. Sanitation in my opinion is the most important thing. If you bottle it could be because the way you cleaned your bottles IE bleach might be the problem.

The fusel and alcoholic taste well that could be of high temp during fermentation or not enough yeast. Looks like you got some good advice and pitch more yeast.

As for equipment temp control is the best out of the bunch if you have a chest freezer on hand. If you dont have a freezer or fridge get one unless you have the means to ferment at steady temps around 68 for ales. Thats where I like mine to sit. I have a small chest freezer that fits 2 bucks nicely and a 6.5 gall carboy and a bucket snug. My freezer is about 7 Cubic ft one. Hell take a bucket when you see one and measure. honestly if you have the room and can afford a used one get one as big as you can 10 plus would be nice. You can condition beers in the freezer as your fermenting your next batches.

Second would be a pump. I just bought a used one from another home brewer really cheap but havent had a chance to use it. From what ive learned and been told its one of the best things ever!! With the pump you can chill your wort faster by using the whirlpool method cost of the whirlpool tube is 15 bucks from Morebeer.com. Look up whirlpool on youtube.

Next on your list to get I like kegs. But having just one would end up costing you at min 40 to 70 bucks. Then theres the o ring replacement and beer lines and taps and .... This would add up to around 150 to start one keg but after that you can get kegs and build your system. Ball locks are more available then pin but both do the same and honestly if you buy one just look at it and if its clean its clean and will work fine. You will just want to replace the o rings and theres threads here that will help with that.

Apologize for the lengthy reply!
 
First off congrats on the massive amount of beer you are consuming!

Thanks! I got addicted right away and haven't looked back.. until my last few batches, but rather than give up it's time to double-up!

As for the flavors your receiving "medicinal, alcohol, fusel messes" the first one could be because of you water, sanitation, over use of bleach.

I've wondered if it was due to improper cleaning after using oxy-clean to peal labels. I always rinse the bottles after soaking them, but probably did an insufficient job & on bottling day I've mostly just dunked and filled them a quarter full in star-san/water solution, rather than soaking them. I also used to use bottles with suspect residue left over, and have since started to inspect each bottle and pitch the ones that aren't 100% free of anything suspect.

The fusel and alcoholic taste well that could be of high temp during fermentation or not enough yeast. Looks like you got some good advice and pitch more yeast.
Yeah, the last batch I did was 9.5% and I only had about a cup of starter... which I used too much DME and had a really high OG on itself... I failed miserably. I asked one of the owners at Madtree how much yeast they pitched for a beer that big and it was more along the lines of a gallon per 5 gallon batch... oops.

Make sure you keeping things clean and check your process if your brewing constantly and you have batches in between that are mediciny something is wrong with the process.

It's mostly been my last 3-4 batches that I did near the end of the summer. The last one I did was in mid October (an enjoy by clone) and it turned out aweful (dark and slightly muddy-ish in color, cloudy, tons of sediment even though i racked to secondary, medicinal, strongly pungent of alcohol).

As for equipment temp control is the best out of the bunch if you have a chest freezer on hand... My freezer is about 7 Cubic ft one.
Yeah, i've been eyeing something in the 7-10 ft^3 range, though I did see a 15 cubic ft one at lowes the other day for a fairly reasonable price.

Hell take a bucket when you see one and measure.
I know, asking how many buckets I can fit was a lazy question, but I figured people would have input and other considerations. I still plan on doing that however.

honestly if you have the room and can afford a used one get one as big as you can 10 plus would be nice
.
I'm on it! I've got a two car garage and it's just my dog and I... I've always kept the other side clean so as to fit another car because I hate messy garages, but brewing Equipment is a necessity, so I can compromise the space for a good cause.

With the pump you can chill your wort faster by using the whirlpool method
Howso? do you run it through a chiller while recirculating it back through, or do you just whirlpool for 15 minutes or so, then empty out the ball valve into the chiller to the fermentor? Also, I'm assuming you can run the plate chiller and pump in-line? This is one of those things I didn't even know about / consider, exactly why I came here for suggestions! :)

Next on your list to get I like kegs.
My LHBS has reconditioned/used cornys for $57.. I planned on asking their advice too on getting everything I need to get started kegging. I want to get into kegging not as a direct replacement for bottling, but at least until Im producing batches that are worth the time and effort to bottle!

Apologize for the lengthy reply!
No need to apologize! This is a great start... I'd love to hear people's experience with various plate chillers too (keep in mind 5-6 gallon batches), as the Therminator is probably the best? But I know there are a bunch that go for around half the price ($80-200). I'd love to hear about what you think of your pump... I know a lot of people use March pumps, after watching a few videos ... I am definitely picking one of these up to use throughout the entire process, would help tremendously with recirculating the wort back over the grain bed during mashing.

Lastly, one other thing I forgot to mention that has been bugging me has been my water supply. I live in a county with extremely hard water, the county water report does not provide any useful information... so for the next batch I do I was going to buy the gallon bottles of water at the grocery and add a teaspoon or so of gypsum (not distilled, though I do want to start doing my own water profiles, I figured this was a topic for another thread in it's own right). I appreciate everyones feedback!
 
Thanks! I got addicted right away and haven't looked back.. until my last few batches, but rather than give up it's time to double-up!



I've wondered if it was due to improper cleaning after using oxy-clean to peal labels. I always rinse the bottles after soaking them, but probably did an insufficient job & on bottling day I've mostly just dunked and filled them a quarter full in star-san/water solution, rather than soaking them. I also used to use bottles with suspect residue left over, and have since started to inspect each bottle and pitch the ones that aren't 100% free of anything suspect.

Oxyclean work well but ive noticed it leaves a soapy residue on it. It wouldnt contribute to a medicinal taste. I use 1oz of pbw per 1.5 to 2 gal of water for getting the labels off and let them soak as long as they need. If you not could be your water. Here is what the BJCP says about medicinal taste (Avoid water with chlorine or chloramines (use RO water if necessary). Avoid bleach sanitizers. Reduce astringency/grain husk sources. Avoid excessive whole hop use. Check for infection.)


Yeah, the last batch I did was 9.5% and I only had about a cup of starter... which I used too much DME and had a really high OG on itself... I failed miserably. I asked one of the owners at Madtree how much yeast they pitched for a beer that big and it was more along the lines of a gallon per 5 gallon batch... oops.

Ouch on the starter here use this it will help http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html with your calculation and pitch rate.


It's mostly been my last 3-4 batches that I did near the end of the summer. The last one I did was in mid October (an enjoy by clone) and it turned out aweful (dark and slightly muddy-ish in color, cloudy, tons of sediment even though i racked to secondary, medicinal, strongly pungent of alcohol).

Most of the issues could have been not enough yeast and fermentation temp. Try racking above the yeast cake. Leaving beer left over in the bucket is ok it helps with clarity.

Yeah, i've been eyeing something in the 7-10 ft^3 range, though I did see a 15 cubic ft one at lowes the other day for a fairly reasonable price.

excellent!

I know, asking how many buckets I can fit was a lazy question, but I figured people would have input and other considerations. I still plan on doing that however.

Not at all I would want to know!

.
I'm on it! I've got a two car garage and it's just my dog and I... I've always kept the other side clean so as to fit another car because I hate messy garages, but brewing Equipment is a necessity, so I can compromise the space for a good cause.

NICE! I have mine out in the garage, was kicked out of the house. I no longer park in my double car garage half is taken up by friges and freezers and beer equipment.

Howso? do you run it through a chiller while recirculating it back through, or do you just whirlpool for 15 minutes or so, then empty out the ball valve into the chiller to the fermentor? Also, I'm assuming you can run the plate chiller and pump in-line? This is one of those things I didn't even know about / consider, exactly why I came here for suggestions! :)

Whirlpool check the youtube video out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bfp_ifTjMqg
Yes on the plate chiller. One step at a time is what ive learned with brewing. Learn about one thing first then move on to the next.

My LHBS has reconditioned/used cornys for $57.. I planned on asking their advice too on getting everything I need to get started kegging. I want to get into kegging not as a direct replacement for bottling, but at least until Im producing batches that are worth the time and effort to bottle!

Craiglist and pepsi company. I bought mine from pepsi for 1/2 the price but make sure you dont get rootbeer ones. You can not get the rootbeer out of the keg. I also recommend getting 2 kegs at min 3 is a good number to start with but it takes time and money work slowly.

No need to apologize! This is a great start... I'd love to hear people's experience with various plate chillers too (keep in mind 5-6 gallon batches), as the Therminator is probably the best? But I know there are a bunch that go for around half the price ($80-200). I'd love to hear about what you think of your pump... I know a lot of people use March pumps, after watching a few videos ... I am definitely picking one of these up to use throughout the entire process, would help tremendously with recirculating the wort back over the grain bed during mashing.

Agreed with this! I havent used mine yet but when I do ill let you know the plus and minus.

Lastly, one other thing I forgot to mention that has been bugging me has been my water supply. I live in a county with extremely hard water, the county water report does not provide any useful information... so for the next batch I do I was going to buy the gallon bottles of water at the grocery and add a teaspoon or so of gypsum (not distilled, though I do want to start doing my own water profiles, I figured this was a topic for another thread in it's own right). I appreciate everyones feedback!

I use 90% RO water or 100% sometimes I try and use the tap water but only 1 or 2 gallons maxs and for sparge water. I have 3 5 gallon carboys that I take down to the filler station .25 cents a gallon and bam I have clean water. I havent added anything in my water even though Ive asked. Ive been told not too so I dont.

Ive entered into competitions I use only ro water. A year ago I got scores in the low 20s and mid 20s. Now after a year of education and help im getting 34-37 points on every beer I enter. With nothing but RO water.
 
I use 90% RO water or 100% sometimes
Oh really? I find that interesting.. but not entirely surprising since RO is stripped of about 90% of the minerals. I flirted with buying an RO system, but figured it would be wiser to purchase water on the cheap than to spend $200-300 for a 10 gallon system. This idea is wholly on the backburner, but I do plan on buying my water before the next brew.

I havent added anything in my water even though Ive asked. Ive been told not too so I dont.
Told by people on the forum, or by judges? I wouldn't think it would hurt to add just a tsp or so of gypsum for hoppier beers.

Ive entered into competitions I use only ro water. A year ago I got scores in the low 20s and mid 20s. Now after a year of education and help im getting 34-37 points on every beer I enter. With nothing but RO water.
Congrats! I can't wait to get all my equipment and be back brewing by mid january (weather permitting... doesnt need to be fantastic out, but mid to high 50's would suffice).
 
Oh really? I find that interesting.. but not entirely surprising since RO is stripped of about 90% of the minerals. I flirted with buying an RO system, but figured it would be wiser to purchase water on the cheap than to spend $200-300 for a 10 gallon system. This idea is wholly on the backburner, but I do plan on buying my water before the next brew.


Told by people on the forum, or by judges? I wouldn't think it would hurt to add just a tsp or so of gypsum for hoppier beers.

Judges but adding some wouldnt hurt! Just make sure you stay consistent when you brewing.

I sent you a message with other questions that doesn't relate to this OP.
 
Back
Top