Help me pick locations for my pump and a few manifolds

[powermd]

Attached is a pic of my brew setup with arrows pointing at a variety of locations I am considering for some changes to the setup.

Of note, the third position on the table occupied by the grain mill now has a proper HLT, Kal style.

I'm getting tired of my Chugger pump not priming well, and spilling wort when switching around hoses, so what I'm planning on doing is a totally closed system using valves to channel liquids to and from the (single) pump. Presently, as you can see, the pump is mid way below the table suspended by cables (seemed cool at the time!). I attribute the poor priming to back pressure from the ascending output hose, but what really annoys me is swapping hoses around that are frequently very hot and spilling sticky wort everywhere. Not to mention the potential for contamination.

If you can imagine this... I'm going to create an input manifold, and an output manifold that connect to either side of the pump. Each will be comprised of two 3-way ball valves, connected in between by 1/2 in x 1.5 in nipples joined by a coupler. The coupler is there to provide something to attach to a mount that will bolt to the table. This will give me 3 inputs and 3 outputs allowing me to connect all the kettles seamlessly with no hose swapping during a brew. To assist with priming, the output manifold will have one free output that can be opened up to relieve back pressure that might be preventing the prime.

My question for the group is where to locate all this stuff on the table. My first idea is to locate the input manifold at position A, the output at C, and the pump at D. The pump should be lower than the input manifold to ensure that it primes, but does it need to be much lower than position D? Obviously there are lots of possible configurations. Please help with what you think would work best !

 

[powermd]

Here is what I ended up doing.

As you can see, I added four 3-way valves to create an input and output manifold for the now centrally mounted pump. I angled the pump input/output downward to promote better draining for sanitary purposes. I used two U-bolts combined with coupling nuts to attach the valve assembly to a hardwood mount I created that bolts to the table. Not pictured is one more 2-way valve added to a t-connector at the center input for the pump. This is directed downward and serves to ease pump priming-- and it works really well! Now I just drain to a bucket until flow is consistent, then close the valve and the pump primes immediately. I'm pretty happy with this arrangement, but it seems I could use at least one or two more input/outputs for fresh water/drainage, and for a counterflow chiller I have yet to add.

 

[nosnhojm20]

I love it. I'm about to start using a pump and this bought some stuff into perspective.

Off topic: are those electric burners under your HLT and BK?

Beautiful set up.

 

[powermd]

I love it. I'm about to start using a pump and this bought some stuff into perspective.

Off topic: are those electric burners under your HLT and BK?

Beautiful set up.

Thanks! The burners are Avantco 3500W induction units. They work adequately.. but one problem I have is rapidly raising the temp of the mash. I'm thinking about installing a 5500W coil in the HLT. An important side note is that they do NOT work with Blichmann kettles. The BK and HLT are Bayou Classics.

One thing I wish I knew before getting started with the pump was how annoying priming can be. It's so much easier having a drain valve right at the input to get a solid column of liquid going sans air bubbles.

 

[nosnhojm20]

Thanks for the heads up on that. Sorry that I can't provide any advice.

Induction! Duh. Great call though. Probably way cheaper than the "traditional" electric rig.

 

[horseinmay]

I see the problem you are having with priming there. Put the pump control valve on the output. With the valve on input, you are cutting of the flow of fluid into the pump, and this causes it to lose prime. If you put it on the output, the pump remains always filled with fluid, and you throttle the output to control flow. Good luck.

 

[powermd]

I see the problem you are having with priming there. Put the pump control valve on the output. With the valve on input, you are cutting of the flow of fluid into the pump, and this causes it to lose prime. If you put it on the output, the pump remains always filled with fluid, and you throttle the output to control flow. Good luck.

The problem is a little more complex than that. I do have a valve on the outflow for controlling… the outflow. Simply having an open outflow and a kettle draining to the pump isn't enough to ensure priming. There must be no air in the system. Air enters the system when one kettle drains completely, such as when I drain the MLT to the BK in preparation for batch sparging. I want the MLT to drain as completely as possible, so I need this to happen.

Once air has entered the system, having a drain valve at the pump inflow is a very convenient way to get the air bubbles out and create a continuous column of fluid adequate for priming.

 

[bucfanmike]

You are creating a natural air pocket by having your pump head rotated with outlet on the bottom. The outlet needs to either point straight up or the right. The way you have it air that enters the pump head is easily trapped in the top of the pump head. Any air pocket there helps to contribute to cavitation.

 

[powermd]

You are creating a natural air pocket by having your pump head rotated with outlet on the bottom. The outlet needs to either point straight up or the right. The way you have it air that enters the pump head is easily trapped in the top of the pump head. Any air pocket there helps to contribute to cavitation.

I had the same problem with my previous setup that had the outflow pointing up. Go figure.

I think the problem is that, in the presence of an air bubble in the line, back pressure through the impeller exceeds the inflow pressure created by the height difference from the kettle to the pump. Once you have a full column of liquid in the line, a little air in the impeller doesn't make any difference and it goes right through (and you can see this happen in the outflow line). I wonder if this problem is unique to my pump.

 

[heckels]

+1 to the PITA it is to swap lines with hot/boiling wort. I'm going to convert to 3-way ball valves. Unfortunately, I have TC fittings and two pumps so concerting over will cost nearly $400 with valves, barbs, clamps and additional hose.

 

[powermd]

+1 to the PITA it is to swap lines with hot/boiling wort. I'm going to convert to 3-way ball valves. Unfortunately, I have TC fittings and two pumps so concerting over will cost nearly $400 with valves, barbs, clamps and additional hose.

When I add up all I've spent incrementally on kettles, fittings, hoses, etc, I probably would have just gone with a nice BIAB setup!

 

[horseinmay]

Another thing you could try is to put a fresh water inlet on the input manifold. That way you could always flood the pump if you lose your prime. After draining one kettle completely, just let in enough water to submerge the impeller.