Help improving kegerator efficiency?

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ClemsonDV

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My kegerator is in my garage, and this summer it's been pretty hot. I'd say continuous 80's/90's. So I have a relatively new keezer with a 2x8 collar (3x stained and eurathaned (sp?). I also added a 1/2" rigid foam insulation around the collar. BUT my keezer still cycles on and off too often for my taste. And my electric bill has risen $50 over this time last year. So I am hoping to get a little more guidance in improving my keezer.

Oh i do have a 120 mm computer fan near the top my keezer which circulates the air. I used an IR thermometer to check seems... pretty good, but I may could take off the original rubber gasket and use weather stripping. I am open for suggestions.

thanks.
 
1. "damper" the temp probe. You can either seal in in a bottle of water, or tape it to the side of a full keg then tape some insulation over the top
2. If your temp controller will allow, increase the temp differential.
3. If you have room, line the interior (including the lid) with 3/4" foam board using 100% silicone to seal all seams. (of course this will only work if its fan driven cooling and not "coil in wall" style)
4. Buy a "Kill A Watt". My SWMBO was trying to convince me that my ferm chamber was costing over a hundred bucks a month using the same method you referred to. It is actually costing somewhere in the $12 range....... http://www.sciencelabsupplies.com/Kill_A_Watt_Meter.html?gclid=CJ2l_Nq1oLkCFcU7MgodDHIABg
 
Weather stripping will help. Also keep it full. Having more thermal mass will take longer to increase enough to turn the compressor on. Check around the compressor to make sure there is enough air getting to the coils. If the coils are dirty you can clean them or vacuum the area. That will help with the heat transfer.
 
As suggested in the first post your temp probe location will have a large effect. How is it set up. What is your temp controller?
 
1. "damper" the temp probe. You can either seal in in a bottle of water, or tape it to the side of a full keg then tape some insulation over the top
2. If your temp controller will allow, increase the temp differential.
3. If you have room, line the interior (including the lid) with 3/4" foam board using 100% silicone to seal all seams. (of course this will only work if its fan driven cooling and not "coil in wall" style)
4. Buy a "Kill A Watt". My SWMBO was trying to convince me that my ferm chamber was costing over a hundred bucks a month using the same method you referred to. It is actually costing somewhere in the $12 range....... http://www.sciencelabsupplies.com/Kill_A_Watt_Meter.html?gclid=CJ2l_Nq1oLkCFcU7MgodDHIABg

Just adding onto #2: there could also be a cycle time setting. This controls how long compressor will be off for before kicking back on.

And #4 is the reason why I no longer keep the espresso machine and Kureg maker plugged in.
 
  • Feel if cold is leaking out anywhere: slowly and carefully move your hand around the fridge, especially door seals and all around the collar and collar edges. Slight leaks are serious because they leak 24/7.
  • Check if your factory insulation is working good: touch with your hand and palm and move carefully around feeling for temperature differences. Only do this test after your compressor has been off for 20 minutes. Unplug it if necessary to keep it off 20 minutes.
  • If you have an infrared temperature sensor/gun that is better than using your hand for the above two bullets.
  • Figure out where your unit rejects heat (condenser). Is air free to flow to carry away the heat of the condenser? Or is the air blocked since it is too close to a wall. Check your owner manual for clearances.
  • This is a minor issue: 1/2" foam is not much. Fridges usually have 2".
  • Does your foam have gaps?
  • Why is your collar so tall? Wood conducts heat 5 times more than styrofoam. Did your 1/2" foam thoroughly cover the collar and around the faucets?
  • Is cooling being lost out of your faucets by conducting the heat outside inward to your faucet rears.
  • Is your voltage supplied at the plug OK when the compressor is running?
  • hot ambient tempertures like you have will affect units. My manufacturer says it will work up to 100F ambient. But of course it still it uses more energy compared to 75F ambient. What does your manufacturer say?
 
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