TripleC223
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- Jan 11, 2017
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I made the jump from extract to BIAB three batches ago and have had varying degrees of success each time. My efficiency has ranged from 45% to 65%, though my last batch was disappointingly on the low end of that spectrum.
That said, I'm hopeful I can get some pointers from you guys about how to improve my process going forward. I am still in the kitchen doing most of this on a stovetop.
*Note that this process is designed to yield 3 gallons of fermentable wort.
Water Prep
Mash
Grain Removal/Sparge
With this method, I usually forfeit .75 gallons to grain absorption. With a 90-minute boil, I will take four gallons of sweet wort to three gallons, which is my target for the fermenter.
A couple questions:
-Do I need to treat the entire four gallons of water at the same time before splitting it up into the brew kettle and "sparge water" pot? Do I need to treat the sparge water differently than the mash water?
-I'm not sure if I'm even doing the sparge right, and I've read that it's unnecessary for BIAB. Really that entire piece of my process is to get to my boil volume of four gallons. I figure if I'm adding topoff water after the mash, I might as well use it to rinse the grains in case I can catch any more sugars. Is there a better way to reach that full boil volume?
-I am still trying to figure out the water chemistry element of brewing. I finally got around to purchasing some lactic acid to get my mash pH right. What's the best way to measure out acid additions? Note I don't have a pH meter and have relied on Bru'n Water to help me reach the mash pH.
That said, I'm hopeful I can get some pointers from you guys about how to improve my process going forward. I am still in the kitchen doing most of this on a stovetop.
*Note that this process is designed to yield 3 gallons of fermentable wort.
Water Prep
- Pour four gallons of distilled water into my 5-gallon aluminum brew kettle.
- Adjust profile of entire four gallons based on Bru'n water adjustments (gypsum & calcium chloride).
- Remove two gallons of treated water from the brew kettle by refilling empty gallon jug. Pour those two gallons into a separate pot for sparge water to use later.
Mash
- Insert paint strainer bag into brew kettle as water is heating. Loop elastic band around rim of brew kettle.
- Preheat oven to 175.
- Heat remaining ~2 gallons of water in brew kettle to appropriate temp (usually ~165 depending on what Can You Mash It recommends).
- Pour pre-crushed grains (usually 5-7 pounds) into brew kettle/bag. Stir grains during pour to ensure adequate water contact.
- Take temperature reading and say "close enough" if it's in 148-152 range (haven't missed this yet, thankfully).
- Cover brew kettle and turn off preheated oven.
- Place covered brew kettle (now a mash tun?) into preheated oven for 60-90 minutes.
- Stir grains and take temp reading every 20 minutes.
- Heat pot of ~2 gallons sparge water to 170 degrees.
Grain Removal/Sparge
- After mash is complete, return brew kettle to stove.
- Remove bag of grains from brew kettle and let drain back into brew kettle.
- Jimmy-rig set up: Put a baker's rack on top of the kettle, and a colander on top of the baker's rack. Place bag of grains into colander so that all drippings return to brew kettle.
- Slowly pour 170-degree sparge water onto grains, making sure to disperse adequately over grains.
- Use brew kettle lid to press bagged grains until most of the liquid is squeezed out.
- Place bag of grains in large plastic bowl to collect final drippings (usually not much). Later add those drippings to the boil.
- Take volume measurement and collect gravity sample to determine grain absorption and brewhouse efficiency.
- Top off with distilled water until boil volume reaches 4 gallons.
- Proceed with boil.
With this method, I usually forfeit .75 gallons to grain absorption. With a 90-minute boil, I will take four gallons of sweet wort to three gallons, which is my target for the fermenter.
A couple questions:
-Do I need to treat the entire four gallons of water at the same time before splitting it up into the brew kettle and "sparge water" pot? Do I need to treat the sparge water differently than the mash water?
-I'm not sure if I'm even doing the sparge right, and I've read that it's unnecessary for BIAB. Really that entire piece of my process is to get to my boil volume of four gallons. I figure if I'm adding topoff water after the mash, I might as well use it to rinse the grains in case I can catch any more sugars. Is there a better way to reach that full boil volume?
-I am still trying to figure out the water chemistry element of brewing. I finally got around to purchasing some lactic acid to get my mash pH right. What's the best way to measure out acid additions? Note I don't have a pH meter and have relied on Bru'n Water to help me reach the mash pH.
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