Heat Stick popping gfci

[dogslapbrewery]

I have two heat sticks both 1500w running off 20a breakers, both sticks after about 10 mins around 130 degrees they pop the gfci outlet. I then started using them on outlets without the gfci and I've done 3-4 batches of brew no problem. I've checked both sticks and they are dry inside, I also have them grounded to the metal stick. So anyone run into his issue?? This happens on multiple gfci outlets.

 

[whoaru99]

What does this mean, "I also have them grounded to the metal stick."?

 

[dogslapbrewery]

Well I have my ground wire connected to the top of the metal sleeve that my heat stick is screwed into.

 

[JDGator]

are you using 110 or 240v?

 

[dogslapbrewery]

110v 20a breaker for a1500w element

 

[JDGator]

are you using 2 heat sticks at a time? if you are you are overloading the circuit.

 

[dogslapbrewery]

Nope just 1 per breaker with nothing else running on it.

 

[dogslapbrewery]

Could it be the name brand of the element? I heard that hot water elements will slowly leak causing the gfci to pop??

 

[ForestGroveBrewer]

I have two heat sticks both 1500w running off 20a breakers, both sticks after about 10 mins around 130 degrees they pop the gfci outlet. I then started using them on outlets without the gfci and I've done 3-4 batches of brew no problem. I've checked both sticks and they are dry inside, I also have them grounded to the metal stick. So anyone run into his issue?? This happens on multiple gfci outlets.

GFCIs trip under only one condition. There is a current imbalance in the circuit of >3mA. You must assure the current is Line to Line only. In a 110V circuit that would be Hot (black) to Neutral (white) Do not let any current leak onto the ground (bare or Green). Ground is not intended to be a current carrying conductor. Hence the reason for using GFCIs

 

[dogslapbrewery]

I checked both the elements and I have the black and white totally encased in JB weld and the green going to the metal sleeve, where could I be leaking?

 

[wilserbrewer]

My guess is that there is moisture under your jb-weld. My experience with heat sticks is that if it is popping the GFI, it is leaking...if even ever so slightly to provide enough moisture to short out.

 

[djt17]

The very 1st heat stick I made tripped the GFCI. After taking it apart; it was wet inside. Be safe; do not use if it trips the GFCI.

 

[Dgonza9]

Have to agree. If it's tripping the gfci it's because moisture is getting in.

I made three heat sticks when I got started electric brewing and mine lasted about six or eight months before one of them started tripping the gfci. There was no visible damage, but moisture had found a way in. I've seen some techniques posted here for pouring JB Weld that might last longer, but
mounting elements in the keggle seems much safer. My mounted elements have been functioning well for years now. Do not under any circumstances bypass your gfci.

 

[dogslapbrewery]

Thought I would do a little test and only have the element in the water instead of the whole stick, little success it still tripped the outlet once it hit 170. This is the interesting part, so I fully submerged it right after it tripped into a fresh batch of cool water and it worked fine till it hit 170. Any ideas??

 

[wilserbrewer]

Yes, there is moisture inside causing the GFI to trip, disassemble and seal again...better luck next time.

 

[dogslapbrewery]

Well why would it stop popping it soon as it goes into a fresh batch of water? If there's moisture it would keep popping it regardless the temp of water?

 

[wilserbrewer]

Moisture and humidity is temperature dependent, perhaps you have a miniature climate system inside your stick, IDK.

Worthless the way it is, I don't understand your hesitancy to disassemble rather than conducting tests?

Open it up to find out if there is moisture immediately after it trips the gfi and report back...thanks and good luck.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Conductivity is also variable with heat...GFI's are very sensitive and the added heat with moisture could cause a trip that does not occur at lower temps.

The moisture I believe is trapped in the stick.

Could also be a very small strand of wire is contacting ground or the outer tubing with thermal expansion causing a trip.

Take the stick apart, JB weld gets soft and pliable with heat from a propane torch or gas stove, it's not that difficult to take apart. Be careful not to burn yourself, as in wear som heavy gloves!

 

[MercMan]

Well why would it stop popping it soon as it goes into a fresh batch of water? If there's moisture it would keep popping it regardless the temp of water?

Once there was water in there it would always be in there. More than likely something is expanding when it gets hot & it touching something else.

 

[dogslapbrewery]

So I broke through on my stubbornness and finally cracked open those heat sticks thinking this is just a waste of time...Little to my surprise both sticks that had the units fully encased in JB weld had small cracks all around them leading to the wiring. Conclusion jb weld is not over good for this type of project, o salvaged both sticks and used silicone instead which I kept at a steady boil for 15 mins with no popping outlet!

 

[alien]

The downside with silicone is mould.

Still, your experience shows it is preferable to epoxy. Hopefully other will take note!

 

[wilserbrewer]

Yes, I have used silicone inside a stick with good results, one tip is to leave the end cap off the stick for a week or so to allow the silicone to cure. Silicone entrapped in a heatstick cures very slowly...don't ask how I know.

Silicone is an insulator when cured, but is a conductor if not cured, and will pop a gfi if not cured, again, don't ask.