Gypsum Or Lactic Acid?

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junior

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Hi,
I would like to lower my PH mash, what I have read is that the addition of gypsum or lactic acid to my strike water will achieve that task. What are the difference's between the two?
 
Hi,
I would like to lower my PH mash, what I have read is that the addition of gypsum or lactic acid to my strike water will achieve that task. What are the difference's between the two?

Gypsum won't. Well, it might just a tiny bit, but not much. If you need to drop the mash pH, phosphoric acid or lactic acid is most common. Lactic acid does have a taste in larger amounts so it really depends on how much you need to lower the pH, when you decide which acid to use.
 
Gypsum won't. Well, it might just a tiny bit, but not much. If you need to drop the mash pH, phosphoric acid or lactic acid is most common. Lactic acid does have a taste in larger amounts so it really depends on how much you need to lower the pH, when you decide which acid to use.

Yooper,
I have lactic acid, so I was planning on using 1tsp for 15qts of strike water to 9.5lbs of grain. O, forgot to mention I want to drop PH from 6 to 5, what do you think.
 
Use lactic. It's inexpensive and, in the doses you'll need, won't impart any flavors. I usually use it in my mash and sparge liquor and save the salts for the boil to enhance one flavor or another or add Calcium for yeast health.

The beauty of using acid preboil is that I don't have to account for the mineral contributions when I add salts later.

The Bru'n Water spreadsheet is great for figuring out how much to add.
 
junior said:
Yooper,
I have lactic acid, so I was planning on using 1tsp for 15qts of strike water to 9.5lbs of grain. O, forgot to mention I want to drop PH from 6 to 5, what do you think.

I just had a similar weight grain bill last week and I added less than 1/4 tsp. it dropped from 5.9 to 5.3.
 
Instead of teaspoons etc...I suggest going to the local pharmacy and get a dosage syringe... they're in MLs. and wayyyyy more accurate.
I only need to use (when I need it at all) 1 or 2 MLs for a whole 10 gallon batch........ EXAMPLE
 
The acidity contributed by Acidulated malt is a little hit and miss from what I have read. With Lactic, you know it is 88% and it is easier to measure what you will need.
 
You should really use a water spreadsheet. Is a bad idea to go off of someone else's measurements because they are using a different water source than you. Look up your county water report and download bru'n water.
 
Next time you're at the drug store or vet, ask for a little 1 mL plastic syringe doser. You really need this level of accuracy. Then figure out how much acid you need to drop your water to the desired pH. For example, I found that I need like 0.6 mL/gal to get down to pH of 6.0 for sparge water. Don't use my numbers since it depends on mineral content of your water.

If you're using lactic acid for your mash (instead of acid malt) then you really need to use one of the spreadsheets and develop a base of experience with it.
 
Any calculation or spreadsheet is useless if the input data is not valid. Be sure to get good data. The very best approach to acidification is to gauge the additions with a pH check of the mash. But in the absence of that tool, a spreadsheet may provide a good estimate.
 
Any calculation or spreadsheet is useless if the input data is not valid. Be sure to get good data. The very best approach to acidification is to gauge the additions with a pH check of the mash. But in the absence of that tool, a spreadsheet may provide a good estimate.

Indeed. Check your work. :mug:
 
Yooper,
I have lactic acid, so I was planning on using 1tsp for 15qts of strike water to 9.5lbs of grain. O, forgot to mention I want to drop PH from 6 to 5, what do you think.

It all depends on what your water is like and the grist you're using.
 
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