GrapeFruit Pale Ale

[newbiewinemaker]

Hi All,

I was looking for a Grapefruit IPA recipe when I found this recipe on http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2013/06/grapefruit-american-pale-ale-recipe.html

I think I am going to try it but I have a question about the hops addition for 0 min. Can someone explain that process to me?



Grapefruit Pale Ale

Recipe Specifics
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Batch Size (Gal): 5.00
Total Grain (Lbs): 9.88
Anticipated OG: 1.055
Anticipated SRM: 4.2
Anticipated IBU: 46.8
Brewhouse Efficiency: 78 %
Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Grain
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96.2% - 9.50 lbs. American "2-row" Brewer's Malt
2.5% - 0.25 lbs. CaraVienna
1.3% - 0.13 lbs. Acid Malt

Hops
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0.63 oz. Cascade (Whole, 8.00% AA) @ 20 min.
0.63 oz. Chinook (Whole, 11.50% AA) @ 20 min.
0.75 oz. Cascade (Whole, 8.00% AA) @ 10 min.
0.75 oz. Chinook (Whole, 11.50% AA) @ 10 min.
2.00 oz. Cascade (Whole, 8.00% AA) @ 0 min.
1.00 oz. Chinook (Whole, 11.50% AA) @ 0 min.
2.00 oz. Cascade (Whole, 8.00% AA) @ Dry Hop
1.00 oz. Chinook (Whole, 11.50% AA) @ Dry Hop

Extras
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1.00 Whirlfloc Fining @ 15 min.
0.50 tsp Yeast Nutrient @ 15 min.
4 Grapefruits zest/flesh

Yeast
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WYeast 1056 American Ale/Chico

Water Profile
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Profile: Washington, DC

Mash Schedule
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Sacch Rest - 60 min @ 153 F

Notes
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Brewed 5/27/13 with Audrey

Made a 1 L starter the night before, yeast pack was 5 months old.

2 g of gypsum added to the mash and sparge. Filtered DC water, un-cut as the base.

Batch sparged. Collected 6.75 gallons of 1.044 runnings.

Chilled to 70 F, shook to aerate, pitched the whole starter, and left at 64 F to ferment.

 

[oldstyle69]

flame out...ie turn off your heat source then add hops...zero minutes left.
usually you will let it rest for a few min..

 

[newbiewinemaker]

Does adding them at this time really effect it? Sorry for the newbie question, I just have never heard of this or done this before. I am still pretty new at brewing AG beer.

 

[BeerFst]

The primary reason to add hops at flameout or doing a hopstand/whirlpool, is to get a lot of flavor and aroma out of them. Boiling hops isomerizes the alpha acids which creates the IBUs, but it also boils off many of the hop oils that contribute to flavor and aroma. Nearly your entirely hop bill can be added after flameout, but you have to correct for the significant loss in isomerization efficiency by increases the amount of hops, often drastically.

Adding them after the heat is off, allows a tiny bit of isomerization to happen, and the oils to diffuse into the wort. Dry hopping does something similar, but primarily for aroma and less for flavor.

If you look at clone recipes for the most famous IPAS and DIPAS (Heady and Pliny) you'll see most of their hops are added after the heat is off. This processes is part of what makes those beers so good.

 

[JBIII]

When I do zero minute additions, I let wort sit for 30 minutes before chilling, which for me does make a difference compared to adding at 0 minutes and immediately chilling...


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[BeerFst]

When I do zero minute additions, I let wort sit for 30 minutes before chilling, which for me does make a difference compared to adding at 0 minutes and immediately chilling...

thats a hopstand, basically an extended flame out. Anything over 180 should isomerize, but at a much slower rate than temps closer to 212. The longer that you let it sit before chilling, the more isomerization will occur.

The way i read this recipe it wants you to cool as soon as possible after adding the flame out hops, but thats totally up to you as the brewer.

 

[JBIII]

It's all the same beerfst, just different names...hop stand, whirlpool, flameout, 0 min addition...and there is no set method, whether you chill immediately, wait a few minutes or wait several minutes.

Something I think we can all agree on is that regardless of what you call it, the method one uses is dependent upon the characteristics the brewer is looking for in the finished product.




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[newbiewinemaker]

Thanks for the information! Also there really wasn't much direction on the recipe. I have never dry hopped before. How does that work? Do you just put the hops in a hops bag and throw it in the fermenter? For how long should I do this for? I am looking for a very noticeable grapefruit tones and taste. I did not want to put grapefruit concentrate in this in the fermenter as I have heard people have had problems with the acidity. I would maybe consider adding some juice to the keg before I force carbonate but if I can get the taste I want from the hops and the Zest I would much rather do that.

Thanks!

 

[JBIII]

Thanks for the information! Also there really wasn't much direction on the recipe. I have never dry hopped before. How does that work? Do you just put the hops in a hops bag and throw it in the fermenter? For how long should I do this for? I am looking for a very noticeable grapefruit tones and taste. I did not want to put grapefruit concentrate in this in the fermenter as I have heard people have had problems with the acidity. I would maybe consider adding some juice to the keg before I force carbonate but if I can get the taste I want from the hops and the Zest I would much rather do that.

Thanks!

Yes, just put the hops in a hop sock and drop it into the secondary fermenter (if you don't do a secondary, just drop in once fermentation has ended) and most brewers let it sit for two weeks. When I do my grapefruit IPA, I dry hop for two weeks and add just the grapefruit zest with one week left before I keg, which is usually one week.

Really the possibilities are endless, so you can always adjust based on what you like/don't like with this particular batch...

 

[newbiewinemaker]

Does anyone have any suggestions on this recipe? How much water should I mash and then sparge with? Isn't the general rule of thumb like 1.5 - 2 Qts/lb grain? Has anyone made one similar? I am really looking for a prominent grapefruit character and flavor with this one.

 

[bobbrews]

This was the reply I used in another thread, but it is apt here as well:

The grist/water ratio is another factor influencing the performance of the mash. A thinner mash of >2 quarts of water per pound of grain dilutes the relative concentration of the enzymes, slowing the conversion, but ultimately leads to a more fermentable mash because the enzymes are not inhibited by a high concentration of sugars.

A stiff mash of <1.25 quarts of water per pound is better for protein breakdown, and results in a faster overall starch conversion, but the resultant sugars are less fermentable and will result in a sweeter, maltier beer. A thicker mash is more gentle to the enzymes because of the lower heat capacity of grain compared to water.

As always, time changes everything; it is the final factor in the mash. Starch conversion may be complete in only 30 minutes, so that during the remainder of a 60 minute mash, the brewer is working the mash conditions to produce the desired profile of wort sugars. Depending on the mash pH, water ratio and temperature, the time required to complete the mash can vary from under 30 minutes to over 90. At a higher temperature, a stiffer mash and a higher pH, the alpha amylase is favored and starch conversion will be complete in 30 minutes or less. Longer times at these conditions will allow the beta amylase time to breakdown more of the longer sugars into shorter ones, resulting in a more fermentable wort, but these alpha-favoring conditions are deactivating the beta; such a mash is self-limiting.

A compromise of all factors yields the standard mash conditions for most homebrewers: a mash ratio of about 1.5 quarts of water per pound grain, pH of 5.3, temperature of 150-155F and a time of about one hour. These conditions yield a wort with a nice maltiness and good fermentability.



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As far as hopstand additions go, I consider them completely separate from flameout and/or 0 min. addition hops. For a hopstand, I keep the wort between 140-180 F, add the hops at 180 F, and let them steep for 30-40 minutes (not letting it drop below 140-150F) before I cool the wort further. I notice a heightened aroma in my IPAs and hop forward APAs by implementing a warm hopstand compared to simply tossing these very late addition hops in at boil end, and then quickly cooling the wort all the way down to pitching temps. within the course of 10-30 minutes.

Toss them in when the wort is too hot, and the delicate aromas boil off; it isn't that much different from a 5 minute kettle addition. Too cold, and you're not doing a warm steep; more like a 30 minute dryhop, which is a waste. I would also recommend allowing some of the grapefruit rind to steep between these temps for optimal oil release without adding any acrid bitterness, or completely boiling off the delicate aromatic oils.

There is a slightly heightened degree of infection by not quickly cooling the wort below the temperature danger zone of bacteria, so please be aware of that and keep everything very sterile.