Getting a pump(Finally), ball valve question....

[WaltG]

Ok, so I'm getting a pump, the cheap one from Anvil Brewing. Right now I'm only going to use it for transfers and to vaurloff (maybe whirlpool). I'm planning on just using an in-line ball valve to regulate flow. So my questions are: Will this work? Does placement matter? Ideally I'd like to just have it a few inches from pump outlet. I know it's obvious to use clamps at all connections but I don't want something to come loose as waste precious beer.

will something as simple as this work?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-Brass-1-2-in-PEX-x-1-2-in-PEX-Ball-Valve/1000242239

 

[augiedoggy]

That brass valve will work. It will also turn black from the wort which is one reason many go stainless. Most people just put ball valves on the bottom of their kettles and use those to control flow as well(having one on the whirlpool arm)

 

[eric19312]

Placement does matter. My experience is with chugger pumps but this seems similar enough. Expect a bit of a learning curve in getting and maintaining prime. What you want is unrestricted flow from kettle to pump inlet and then to throttle the flow from the pump output to the kettle input. Valves mounted on the kettles are most convenient for this.

Another issue to consider is hose connections. I'm guessing you are thinking to go with barbs and clamps and I did that too when I started. However I wish I'd skipped that step and gone direct to the camlocks I use now. These (or I suppose quick disconnects but no experience with those) make it easy to move lines around during a brew day and use same pump for multiple tasks.

 

[diymechanicalguy]

I would recommend using stainless steel for the longevity of your valve, the wort won't only discolor the valve like augiedoggy said, it will also corrode quicker. However, it depends on what you are connecting the line to. Another issue with the selected ball valve is cleaning and keeping the valve sanitary. If you go with a ball valve, look at a 3 piece design to take it completely apart and clean all components. Otherwise, a butterfly valve can be easily cleaned as well.
This article lays out some of the criteria for valve selection: https://tameson.co.uk/valves-used-in-breweries.html

 

[augiedoggy]

I never understood the the allure of the " 3 piece" (actually many pieces with bolts and nuts) valve it requires removing 4 bolts to disassemble where the standard valve (literally 3 pieces) comes completely apart in seconds by just unscrewing one end of the valve body and popping the ball out. I prefer the standard valve myself.

 

[VVbrewery]

I never understood the the allure of the " 3 piece" (actually many pieces with bolts and nuts) valve it requires removing 4 bolts to disassemble where the standard valve (literally 3 pieces) comes completely apart in seconds by just unscrewing one end of the valve body and popping the ball out. I prefer the standard valve myself.

I've wondered about that too. I would recommend if you plan on taking it apart do it the first time before mounting it. Some of them can be a real ***** to get apart the first time.

 

[Amadeo38]

Just last week I did the exact thing you’re wanting to do here. I went with the Keg King MKII pump, upgraded to stainless steel head, a regular SS ball valve for controlling out-flow connected via threads directly to the SS Head of the pump, and heavy duty camlocks at every juncture between high heat silicone tubing.

It’s soooo nice and the first time I’ve ever gotten clear wort out of a vorlauf! Turns out all this time the slight background astringency I’ve had in my beers was likely due to impatience in my vorlauf process (cloudy wort).