First time Brewer with some questions

[cheflukehammond.com]

Hi All, i'm new here and to brewing. I have read alot and watched alot or brewing videos and am confident enough that i understand the process. I'm also a chef that's done alot of molecular gastronomy so am good with the science stuff.

My questions are: I'd like to start by doing a bunch of small batches to test different recipes out. I'm thinking of approximately 4-5 litre batches (as in, 4-5litres or beer after ferment).

I'm thinking of starting by doing full grain BIAB. My main question i guess, as i'm currently shopping for my equipment, is what size pot is needed for smallish batches, and also with teh size of fermenters.. to get 4-5litres in the fermenter, do they have to be around that size themselves or can i ferment small batches in larger fermenters? I'm planning to buy probably 3-4 fermenters to have a few small batches going at the same time.

My thought behind this is that if it all goes well, id do bigger batches, but would be good to not have to buy larger equipment and just start off with the larger stuff already, but still doing small batches

Anyways, looking forward to responses and thanks in advance!

 

[Redpappy]

When I do small batches I use a 2 gal food grade bucket. ( I bought the bucket at Lowe’s, drilled a hole in the lid, placed a grommet in for my air lock).
As far as pot, I would say a 3 gal would be the smallest. I use a 5 gal.
For my bag on the small batches I use a 5 gal paint strainer bag.

 

[RM-MN]

Since you plan to start with BIAB, you want at least a 5 gallon (20L) pot. Bigger will be better as you most likely will want to do some larger batches soon and will need the bigger pot. If you decide to do 5 liter batches without sparging, a 7 1/2 gallon "turkey fryer" pot will be good. If you decide to do 20L batches, you want at least 40L pot.

I make lots of small batches. I find that the bigger fermenters work just fine but if I had to start all over, I'd look for 5 gallon white HDPE buckets. You want the white one so there is not chance of leaching out the colorizers and you want HDPE. HDPE buckets can be used for no-chill as they are safe to pour boiling wort into and they are much cheaper than "ale pails" that are larger and less readily available.

 

[cheflukehammond.com]

Thanks for the replies. Pots are not a major drama as i have a bunch already of various sizes. If i got a 5 gallon (i think thats almost 20Litre) white bucket as a fermenter, but only had 5l of "beer" fermenting in that, that extra 15 litres of empty space doesn't cause any problems? Also, with fermenters, how much minimum space would you say is necessary to have empty? I mean, can i have say 4 litres in a 5litre fermenter? OR do i need to have more space left empty?

 

[Leezer]

I think you'd be okay with 4 litres in a 5 litre fermenter. I use the Little Big Mouth Bubbler for my 1 gal batches, although my 1 gal into the fermenter is more like 1.25 gal. The LBMB holds 1.3 gal. This is not a lot of extra room but I haven't had any issues.

Also, I use a 4 gal kettle for my 2.5 gal biab batches, and a 3 gal kettle for the 1 gal ones. I started off using the 5 gal paint strainer bags but now use a custom made bag made by wilserbrewer (a member on here).

 

[cheflukehammond.com]

I think you'd be okay with 4 litres in a 5 litre fermenter. I use the Little Big Mouth Bubbler for my 1 gal batches, although my 1 gal into the fermenter is more like 1.25 gal. The LBMB holds 1.3 gal. This is not a lot of extra room but I haven't had any issues.

Also, I use a 4 gal kettle for my 2.5 gal biab batches, and a 3 gal kettle for the 1 gal ones. I started off using the 5 gal paint strainer bags but now use a custom made bag made by wilserbrewer (a member on here).

Perfect, thanks for the info!

 

[cheflukehammond.com]

Since you plan to start with BIAB, you want at least a 5 gallon (20L) pot. Bigger will be better as you most likely will want to do some larger batches soon and will need the bigger pot. If you decide to do 5 liter batches without sparging, a 7 1/2 gallon "turkey fryer" pot will be good. If you decide to do 20L batches, you want at least 40L pot.

I make lots of small batches. I find that the bigger fermenters work just fine but if I had to start all over, I'd look for 5 gallon white HDPE buckets. You want the white one so there is not chance of leaching out the colorizers and you want HDPE. HDPE buckets can be used for no-chill as they are safe to pour boiling wort into and they are much cheaper than "ale pails" that are larger and less readily available.

One thing in the brew process that i've been reading up on, and don't really understand is Sparging? There are a few was to do it, and i just don't know what is the best way, or if you even need to do it?

 

[LittleRiver]

Your decision to start out with full grain BIAB is good.

I was going to say that you, being a chef, probably already have a pot suitable for a 5L batch, but you beat me to it. Send the dimensions of your pot to wilserbrewer to get a quality BIAB bag (he probably already has one that fits ready to ship). His bags are very well made, reasonably priced, and the fabric (swiss voile) is a much better filter than a paint strainer bag.

2gal food grade HDPE buckets can make good small batch fermenters. That's what I use for making mead. You will have to drill the lid for a grommet that will accept an airlock.

When you make the transition to larger batches of beer, my advice is to buy a kettle that is three times the volume of your batch (i.e. 15gal kettle for 5gal batch). That will give you enough headroom in the kettle to eliminate the possibility of a boil over, and also give you enough space if you want to do larger batches or make high ABV beers that require a lot of grain.

 

[cheflukehammond.com]

Your decision to start out with full grain BIAB is good.

I was going to say that you, being a chef, probably already have a pot suitable for a 5L batch, but you beat me to it. Send the dimensions of your pot to wilserbrewer to get a quality BIAB bag (he probably already has one that fits ready to ship). His bags are very well made, reasonably priced, and the fabric (swiss voile) is a much better filter than a paint strainer bag.

2gal food grade HDPE buckets can make good small batch fermenters. That's what I use for making mead. You will have to drill the lid for a grommet that will accept an airlock.

When you make the transition to larger batches of beer, my advice is to buy a kettle that is three times the volume of your batch (i.e. 15gal kettle for 5gal batch). That will give you enough headroom in the kettle to eliminate the possibility of a boil over, and also give you enough space if you want to do larger batches or make high ABV beers that require a lot of grain.

Thanks alot for your reply! I can get my hands on some 5L glass carboys pretty cheap over here so i may go with that for fermenters, will that be fine?

 

[McKnuckle]

Sparging? There are a few ways to do it, and i just don't know what is the best way, or if you even need to do it?

There is no best way, and no; you don't need to do it. But you can. Welcome to brewing! There are many variables in the process, all of which work and are usually chosen by people based on available equipment, time, consistency, and simple preference.

Not sparging at all is the easiest, followed by a single batch sparge. Fly sparge is traditional and modeled after large scale pro breweries, but requires more time and care to be taken for (arguably) little real benefit over other methods.

There are a zillion threads on sparging if you want to torture yourself. But I suggest a simple, classic BIAB full volume no-sparge for your first brews. And you never have to "progress" beyond that (because doing so would just be different, not necessarily progress).

 

[RM-MN]

Simply put, sparging is rinsing the rest of the sugar that was left in the grain. A poor analogy would be dumping a bottle of marinara (I know, you're a chef and make your own) and noticing a bunch of is still stuck to the jar. A quick rinse with a bit of water and you get most of it out. One more rinse and the bottle is clean. That would be the equivalent of a double batch sparge. Using a spray nozzle to rinse it out would be closer to a fly sparge. A no-sparge would be to just let the jar drain out on its own and throwing it away.

 

[Immocles]

+1 to the wilser bags
+1 to no sparging

I make these small 1-1.25g stovetop batches once or twice a month. I do not sparge on these small batches (or on any brew, anymore). I pull the bag out of the kettle, and let it drain over the kettle on one of those circular pizza trays that have a few dozen holes drilled into them. Then I would usually squeeze the remainder out after its cooled off a bit. I also follow the suggestion of using a 5G pot. I've used 3G before, but its a bit too tight for me. Since you seem to have a surplus of kettles at different sizes you might one you prefer over the other.

 

[LittleRiver]

...5L glass carboys pretty cheap over here so i may go with that for fermenters, will that be fine?

Absolutely, those will be great fermenters. Their smaller size makes them less fragile than the larger sizes.

The hops in the wort will react to light, so ferment in a dark place or cover the fermenter with a cloth or something.

Fermentation temperature is very important. This is especially true during the first few days (primary fermentation). Temps that are too high can negatively impact taste. Temps that are too low will make the yeast sluggish.

Look at the optimal temperature range of the yeast (it will be on the package), and try to stay in the lower part of that range for the first few days. After the krausen (the foam that forms on top of the wort) falls, you can let the temp go up to the mid-high range of the yeast. That will help them finish their work.

 

[cheflukehammond.com]

Simply put, sparging is rinsing the rest of the sugar that was left in the grain. A poor analogy would be dumping a bottle of marinara (I know, you're a chef and make your own) and noticing a bunch of is still stuck to the jar. A quick rinse with a bit of water and you get most of it out. One more rinse and the bottle is clean. That would be the equivalent of a double batch sparge. Using a spray nozzle to rinse it out would be closer to a fly sparge. A no-sparge would be to just let the jar drain out on its own and throwing it away.

Right, got it. SO, if you do this, are you starting the process with less water as you are adding more water through sparging?

 

[RM-MN]

Right, got it. SO, if you do this, are you starting the process with less water as you are adding more water through sparging?

You have a couple choices. You can start with the full amount of water, add the sparge water, then boil off the excess or you can start with a smaller amount of water and bring the collected wort the the right amount by sparging. I use the second method. Sometimes I sparge more than necessary and just end up with more but weaker beer. It still tastes good and I got more beer. Since I don't intend to get drunk from it, the lower ABV is of no concern to me.

 

[Kharnynb]

with small amounts, a 10 liter pot should be fine, sparge it by using one of those ikea pot sieves, just dunk the grain bag on top and "water" the bag all over to get as much sugars out.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Colander-Strainer-Adjustable-Drainer-Stainless/dp/B00G18TH36

those 5 liter "carboy" bottles are great for small batches, I use them too, but making a base wort and then dividing 20 liters over 4 bottles and dryhopping or putting different fruits and wood to age.

ps. what country are you in? it does depend what you can get and where.

 

[LittleRiver]

Sparging can be completely eliminated if you get sufficient sugars from your initial mash. I only sparge if I'm shooting for an ABV above 7%, which does not happen very often.

More than any other variable, the efficiency of your mash will be determined by how finely your grains are crushed. If your grain supplier has an option for fine crush, specify it when you order your grain. If you are crushing your own, then crush it very fine. There should be a fair amount of flour in the crush. If you can only get a coarse crush from your supplier, then also run it through a food processor to pulverize it. If you do that, you should not need to sparge.

A bag made of swiss voile is recommended, due to the filtering qualities of its fine weave.

 

[cheflukehammond.com]

with small amounts, a 10 liter pot should be fine, sparge it by using one of those ikea pot sieves, just dunk the grain bag on top and "water" the bag all over to get as much sugars out.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Colander-Strainer-Adjustable-Drainer-Stainless/dp/B00G18TH36

those 5 liter "carboy" bottles are great for small batches, I use them too, but making a base wort and then dividing 20 liters over 4 bottles and dryhopping or putting different fruits and wood to age.

ps. what country are you in? it does depend what you can get and where.

I'm in Australia

 

[Kharnynb]

Ah, was wondering if Europe, but Aus has a good homebrew scene as well.
Should be easy enough to get most of the basic stuff, for sparge/no sparge it depends on if you got a pot big enough to fit all the water in one go, or need to add after removing grains

 

[cheflukehammond.com]

Another question i have, reading through recipes and everyone talking about their brew days is efficiency.. How exactly is efficiency calculated? How are you all knowing how efficient you are? This may be a stupid question so sorry in advance if it is.. It's just confusing me

 

[bracconiere]

Another question i have, reading through recipes and everyone talking about their brew days is efficiency.. How exactly is efficiency calculated? How are you all knowing how efficient you are? This may be a stupid question so sorry in advance if it is.. It's just confusing me

LOL confusing to me to, you'll probably get a dozen posts...about different ratings....i just keep it consistant and use beersmith BH %......that way i can tell if it's better or worse....

 

[Kharnynb]

efficiency is just how much sugar you extract from a given amount of grain.
you kinda will find your efficiency by measuring OG and seeing how close you got to what the recipe said it should have been.

 

[bracconiere]

efficiency is just how much sugar you extract from a given amount of grain.
you kinda will find your efficiency by measuring OG and seeing how close you got to what the recipe said it should have been.

damn....you gotta like measure pre-boil, mash, and a bunch more. if you really want to know efficiency!!! my post boil gravity is always lower then what beersmith predicts...(joking aside thought, yeah it's good to keep track of so you don't have to use as much base malt)

 

[Kharnynb]

damn....you gotta like measure pre-boil, mash, and a bunch more. if you really want to know efficiency!!! my post boil gravity is always lower then what beersmith predicts...(joking aside thought, yeah it's good to keep track of so you don't have to use as much base malt)

if you want to be really accurate, yes. But ball park will do for homebrewing, since basemalt tends to be cheap.