First Batch/IPA

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The kit contained SMaSH IPA. Single malt and single hop. Instructions did not call for dry hop. Since this is my first brewing I will follow the instructions so I don't have to explain to anyone why my beer tastes like swamp water for lack of following said instructions. Fermentation has ceased. I'm pleased the brew does not have some pond scum growing due to contamination. The fragrance is of citrus. The brew looks damn good. With that said, the bottling will commence as instructed. However...to be safe I will place the bottles in a locking lid tote just in case a bottle or two decides to blow. If she blows....no harm....just a grown adult whimpering by a tote full of beer and empty bottles. ☹️
 
Investigation of dry hopping it appears to be a personal preference. For most it is a must for IPA. Some dry hop every type of beer they brew. I will dry hop the next batch. For may understanding this particular kit the hop schedule while boiling the wort makes all the difference in taste and aroma. I have read the same with similar kits of single malt and single hop recipes.
 
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As you continue to brew and experiment, you can try late boil hops, hopstands, and different timing/duration of dry hop additions. It's all good. In 113 batches I have dry hopped less than half a dozen times. Not sure why exactly, but I avoid it for some irrational reason. Hopstands may not contribute the intense aroma that dry hopping can, but it can add more persistent flavor which, of course, is tied up with the olfactory sense as well.
 
Before you bottle, does the hydrometer float in the fermenter?

The hydrometer I purchased has a length of 10 inches. To long to float in the fermenter at current beer level. However, if the beer level was at the gallon mark I'm believing the hydrometer would float allowing a measurement to be recorded. As a side note, I purchased a hydrometer beaker to fill and make measurements.
 
The hydrometer I purchased has a length of 10 inches.
As I mentioned twice before, the overall length of the hydrometer is insignificant. What counts is the distance between the bottom and the 1.000 mark. It may still be more than the height of beer, but worth measuring.

Sure, if there's any doubt, don't do it! Even the slightest tap on the bottom will likely crack/shatter the hydrometer.

It's alike testing one's ability to operate a clutch uphill with their cell phone behind the tire. :tank:
 
As I mentioned twice before, the overall length of the hydrometer is insignificant. What counts is the distance between the bottom and the 1.000 mark. It may still be more than the height of beer, but worth measuring.

Sure, if there's any doubt, don't do it! Even the slightest tap on the bottom will likely crack/shatter the hydrometer.

It's alike testing one's ability to operate a clutch uphill with their cell phone behind the tire. :tank:

The length of the hydrometer prevents using it while the beer is in the fermenter.
 
The beer is bottled with the help of the missus. Eight 12oz bottles. I tasted the beer. Sweet citrus with bitter finish.

I calculated 4%abv.

Thus far I'm pleased with the flavor. The bottles have their carb drops and will sit getting happy for 2 weeks.

Right now I have a hefewiuzen on the boil.
 
All indications short of a hydrometer reading twice to check active fermentation, the fermenting appeared complete(2 weeks). Clear, no bubbler activity, nothing floating. I bottled the brew as the instructions indicated. Being short of a gallon total I have 8 bottle of beer. I did take a taste. I was very pleased with the flavor. However, the finish tasted boozy. I hope to have it mellow and get happy over the next 2 weeks carbonating.
 
Short of two weeks bottle conditioning I decided to try one out of curiosity. No gushers or bottle bombs. Very sweet IPA citrus(grapefruit fruit finish) . I'm thinking another week fermenting would have served the batch well. The carbonation was good.
IMG_20200130_173307.jpg
 
4% won't be strong...that's a session my friend. :)

Bottle carbonation is a range thing. It's generally 2-3 weeks while using dextrose. 3 weeks is max and is what I usually shoot for.

You can get away sometimes with 2 weeks if it has been aging longer in the fermenter.

Since you racked it after 2 weeks (which is a good safe "mimimal" time to assure fermentation is complete for common brews), I'd expect it to taste better, but not HUGELY better, after 3 weeks of bottle conditioning.

FWIW, a good upgrade for you would be to get rid of the vertical fermometer stickers and get horizontal ones. Horizontal ones are MUCH better for many reasons that I won't go into.

Your vertical strip was placed incorrectly and I can see lots of air gaps due to the exterior ribbing of the carboy. You won't get an accurate reading unless that sticker is 100% firmly sealed to the glass! It says 66F on the glass, but who knows what the actual reading is....after 3-4 days of fermenting it will slowly work its way down to room temp. Nothing to worry about, just knowledge for you.

You should always plan/expect for a +10F increase during fermentation. So if it's 66F ambient, expect that it "may" reach 76F during peak fermentation, which is much too warm for an ale.

Congrats on making beer! You'll soon learn that:

1) Yay, I can make beer now, and 1G of beer is the same effort as 5G of beer, so why not just do 5G?

2) Wow, beer takes nearly 1.5 months from start to finish. Maybe I should make beer every couple weeks so I can always have something new ready to taste? :)

btw, Nice Buick.

4D9A8779-E0DB-4699-8B51-3557BE4FA4D8.jpg
 
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I do plan on letting the bottles condition another week. I did move the strip to a portion on the carboy that allows it to lay flat across it's length. As a result the strip reads a consistent 64 degrees on the carboy and a conical fermenter in the same room. Thanks for the tips!
 
You should always plan/expect for a +10F increase during fermentation. So if it's 66F ambient, expect that it "may" reach 76F during peak fermentation, which is much too warm for an ale.

OP was brewing a one gallon kit (batch size was mentioned in reply #2). My experiences with actually brewing 1 gal batches suggest that the temperature will go up a couple of degrees, but not the +10 (or more :eek:) degrees that's often stated for five gal batches.
 
many quickly leave 1G behind

And many continue to brew a mix of 1 gal, 2.5 gal, and 5.0 gal. For those that want to brew smaller batch sizes, let's strive to share our experiences when actually brewing that batch size.

So to the point (with two examples in this topic): There is some advice that is good for five gal brewers that simply not good for one gal brewers.

:mug:
 
4% won't be strong...that's a session my friend. :)

Bottle carbonation is a range thing. It's generally 2-3 weeks while using dextrose. 3 weeks is max and is what I usually shoot for.

You can get away sometimes with 2 weeks if it has been aging longer in the fermenter.

Since you racked it after 2 weeks (which is a good safe "mimimal" time to assure fermentation is complete for common brews), I'd expect it to taste better, but not HUGELY better, after 3 weeks of bottle conditioning.

FWIW, a good upgrade for you would be to get rid of the vertical fermometer stickers and get horizontal ones. Horizontal ones are MUCH better for many reasons that I won't go into.

Your vertical strip was placed incorrectly and I can see lots of air gaps due to the exterior ribbing of the carboy. You won't get an accurate reading unless that sticker is 100% firmly sealed to the glass! It says 66F on the glass, but who knows what the actual reading is....after 3-4 days of fermenting it will slowly work its way down to room temp. Nothing to worry about, just knowledge for you.

You should always plan/expect for a +10F increase during fermentation. So if it's 66F ambient, expect that it "may" reach 76F during peak fermentation, which is much too warm for an ale.

Congrats on making beer! You'll soon learn that:

1) Yay, I can make beer now, and 1G of beer is the same effort as 5G of beer, so why not just do 5G?

2) Wow, beer takes nearly 1.5 months from start to finish. Maybe I should make beer every couple weeks so I can always have something new ready to taste? :)

btw, Nice Buick.

View attachment 664461

Nice Charger. I own two Buicks. 54 Special 48D 264 Nailhead. 3 on the tree. Completely restored. My other is a completely original 60 Electra. 401 Nailhead. 36k original mile.
 
And many continue to brew a mix of 1 gal, 2.5 gal, and 5.0 gal. For those that want to brew smaller batch sizes, let's strive to share our experiences when actually brewing that batch size.

And MANY don't. Doesn't make what I said not true. The same amount of work, time, patience is required on 1G vs 5G. Do I still make 2-3G batches? Yes, but primarily cider. I wouldn't act like MOST people still primarily make "micro" batch sizes. 1 gallon is 2 growlers. That's a lot of effort for so little beer, and I think most would agree with that. GREAT size for getting your feet wet and for experimental batches, but most would agree that's not worth the time to continue doing that.

I'd even go further--I disagree with only 1G as an "experimental" batch too. I go right back into, it's the same time, effort, and work. If I'm spending 4 hours on a brew day + the night before cleaning + the day after cleaning, I'd rather spend $8 more and just make it a 5G batch. Time is money.

So to the point (with two examples in this topic): There is some advice that is good for five gal brewers that simply not good for one gal brewers.

:mug:
The advice remains consistent and isn't negative advice, even it's for a 1-3 gallon brewer. I heavily disagree with "not good". "Not relevant" is a more accurate way to say it.

Be aware of temperature control and temp climbs is all I'm saying. A 66F basement, with his upgraded 3 gallon fermenter, is getting on the cusp and it requires some due diligence. In-fact, with Nottingham, that's too hot, and I would definitely temp control @ 66F ambient.

You don't have to be so nitpicky, you know. Maybe I'll only post in "5G batches" from now on since my advice is "not good." LOL.

Anyhow, I'll say it again. You made beer. Good job! If you're like me, you'll treat it as a martial art and will always want to continually learn and improve. I'm sitting next to 20 Gallons of fermenting beer right now, 4 different varieties. :)

:tank:
 
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Gotcha. Tiny pic on my phone. Tried to read the script on the fender. Graveyard Cars fan?

I definitely need to start watching that! I do watch Nick's Garage when I can which is a mopar heavy (but not always) show. I've heard great things about Graveyard cars! There's another show that sounds similar to graveyard cars, I forgot the name of it, but it's two guys that rescue cars and drive them back and across country...lots of crap happens as you can imagine!
 
I definitely need to start watching that! I do watch Nick's Garage when I can which is a mopar heavy (but not always) show. I've heard great things about Graveyard cars! There's another show that sounds similar to graveyard cars, I forgot the name of it, but it's two guys that rescue cars and drive them back and across country...lots of crap happens as you can imagine!

Graveyard Carz is Mopar all day. Mark Worman is a bit annoying but I totally respect the guy for restoring each Mopar with correct nuts/bolts and markings from the factory. I'm more of a fan of originals and or restoring to factory original. No doubt you are a Mopar guy and this program will interest you.

https://www.graveyardcarz.com
 
Pulled another bottle that sat in the frig for a week after a week conditioning at room temp. It was not a gusher but bubbled over some. Tasted better than the first bottle that sat conditioning for a week and then placed in the frig for 3 days. This bottle sweet and bitter. Finished the bottle because it was good. I have four I let finish out at room temp for exactly 2 weeks. Currently in the frig as of today. I'll see how these taste in a day or so.
 
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