First 10 gallon batch

[KarlHungus76]

I recently upgraded my equipment to be able to make 10 gallon batches, I have been brewing for a little over two years and in keeping variables to a minimum, I have decided to do 10 gallons of Edwort's Haus Pale, given the lighter grain bill and lower stakes if there are mistakes.
Any common mistakes people can think of when switching to larger batches? Thanks.

 

[kpr121]

I recently upgraded my equipment to be able to make 10 gallon batches, I have been brewing for a little over two years and in keeping variables to a minimum, I have decided to do 10 gallons of Edwort's Haus Pale, given the lighter grain bill and lower stakes if there are mistakes.
Any common mistakes people can think of when switching to larger batches? Thanks.

Good thoughts on your first batch, keep it to something simple and relatively cheap.

Some general comments:
- While 10 gallon batches take up less overall time than two independent 5 gallon batches, be prepared for a little longer brew day. Water treatment, milling grain, filling vessels, heating, transfers, chilling, cleaning all usually take longer with bigger batches.
- Do you have a pump(s)? They can make it a little (or alot) easier to transfer that much liquid. A pot with 10 gallons of boiling or near boiling liquid is not something you want to be picking up and dumping. A nice gravity system can work also, but make sure you account for the extra weight.
- If you have your mashing all dialed it for 5 gallon batches, be prepared for it to be a little different with 10 gallons. You’ll probably have to at least partially re-learn your mashing setup including strike, sparge temps, and how you vorlauf/recirculate. Beersmith or other brewing programs can help with this.
- Depending on your equipment, you may have trouble making high-gravity batches at 10 gallons. I have a 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler MLT and I am limited to about 27-28 lbs of grain max, which comes out to about a 1.075 to 1.080 OG brew, depending on efficiency. When I want to do a higher gravity brew I either lower my volume or add DME to the boil.
- If you make yeast starters, make sure you account for doubling the starting wort. That usually means 4+ liters for a typical beer. You could also split the batch between different yeasts. It makes a great way to test how different yeasts taste in the same beer. Its a good idea to start thinking about yeast harvesting/storing if you havent already. You can quickly develop quite a selection of yeast. I sometimes split my batches between a strain I've previously used (either starter or slurry from the last batch) and a new yeast that I want to try. Cuts yeast costs effectively in half and I have two different beers from one batch. I usually do something similar with my dry hopping schedule too.
- If you don’t buy in bulk now, try to start! 10 gallon batches can easily hit $75 and above if you aren’t getting good per-lb prices on grains, hops.

Some of those comments might sound like making 10 gallon batches is a PITA. It’s really not bad. In fact, I don’t think I would be able to keep up with consumption at my house if I didn’t switch to 10 gallon batches since I havent been able to brew as often lately. I’ve even recently started pushing the limits of my system and making 15 gallon batches of low gravity (1.030 to 1.040) beers to keep my pipeline full!

Good luck!

 

[revco]

kpr121 definitely summed it up well.

I'd 100% concur about the pump when migrating to 10G batches. If you have manual moving processes in use now, you'll find those same efforts are exceptionally difficult to achieve with the added weight. A pump will definitely be desirable and you may have some process changes you want to make. 11-12 gallons is incredibly heavy.

I also found it very desirable after my first 10G batch to upgrade my MLT. While I had a 10G unit for my first, my first batched mashed at around 9.5G total. This was far too close to the top for comfort and I found it difficult to stir properly. I ended up converting an Xtreme 70 Quart after my first batch and it was a move I haven't regretted. Technically you can get away with less, but there will come a point where you'll appreciate the extra room.

Something that wasn't mentioned was how much 10G will tax your current bottling or kegging method. Remember, you'll need twice as many bottles (4-5 cases per batch) or two kegs per batch.

Other than that, you'll find it's really worth the effort...especially when you brew a fantastic beer!

 

[kpr121]

I also found it very desirable after my first 10G batch to upgrade my MLT. While I had a 10G unit for my first, my first batched mashed at around 9.5G total. This was far too close to the top for comfort and I found it difficult to stir properly. I ended up converting an Xtreme 70 Quart after my first batch and it was a move I haven't regretted. Technically you can get away with less, but there will come a point where you'll appreciate the extra room.

This is absolutely true. I only still use my 10 gallon rubbermaid because I'm lazy and don't feel like buying another cooler to use. It would make those high gravity brews much easier if I was using a 70 or 80 quart cooler as a tun. If I were to start over I'd get a 70 qt and build a nice copper manifold or false bottom and be done with it.

 

[KarlHungus76]

Appreciate the responses. I won't be picking up 10 gallons+ of hot wort I assure you. A pump is a good idea for sure, just trying to avoid it. At this point I'm thinking run off into a bucket, pour into kettle, and repeat. I don't bottle really anymore so I think I found a use for my old bottling bucket....hmm maybe I should toss some of those bottles...nahh.