Oh! I missed the keezer part. Sorry about that @JnR_NaT. Yes, @skidmark's idea is a good one. You could also use "beer constant" mode and insulate a second probe on the side of one of your kegs. That way you would be controlling your beer temp.Maybe immerse the temp probe (assuming that it's water resistant) in a small volume of water to dampen the response?
A 5 gallon glass fermenter is gonna come in around 50 lbs filled. That's just shy of 23 kilos. 44 grams is 0.2% of that. A typical rating for a load cell is +-0.3% so I think you'd find the best resolution you'd get would be around +-0.5% abw (if my half-assed math is correct.)
This is a dead thread but the guy sent me a PCB that I never used. If anybody is interested in picking up on his project I can send you the PCB. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/arduino-keezer-meter-project.554878/What about a scale to weight the fermenter? CO2 goes out weight goes low.
Every 44grams CO2 => 46grams Etanol
This is a dead thread but the guy sent me a PCB that I never used. If anybody is interested in picking up on his project I can send you the PCB. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/arduino-keezer-meter-project.554878/
I am not a fan either. I owned a BeerBug before they went belly up. One of the big reasons I bought a Tilt...Plaato is an interesting product, but I am leery of anything dependent on cloud support. One day the cloud is there, the next there's not one in sight ...
So, nowhere to drop in a few lines of code? I haven't gone through it yet, but I figured that someone would have an idea.
Thanks!
Adding “bubble rate” is easy enough, but would have to be done at the expense of specific gravity support as I don’t think that dygraphs supports 3 y axes simultaneously.
I second it if it can be selectable. I probably will purchase a tilt soon too. But finding my bubble counters resurrected and idea I helped work on about 10 years ago. The circuit to these things are simple. I sent the schematic over to Lbussy. I would love to see it implemented and will help test and build what ever I can.Would it be selectable? I may end with a Tilt in the end, but I'm just looking for a quick 'n' dirty means of checking on fermentation progress. Maybe bump the temp up to encourage a good finishing SG, then cold crashing. I could then keg whenever I returned home.
The circuit to these things are simple. I sent the schematic over to Lbussy. I would love to see it implemented and will help test and build what ever I can.
I don't have one yet but from what I understand the answer is yes.I'm considering buying a tilt and see Fermentrack has Tilt integration. Does Fermentrack fermentation profile support the use of the gravity readings from the tilt i.e increase fermentation temperature when gravity reaches 1.xxx? Thinking of using it for a stepped lager fermentation profile.
I don't believe that @Thorrak has implemented this yet.I'm considering buying a tilt and see Fermentrack has Tilt integration. Does Fermentrack fermentation profile support the use of the gravity readings from the tilt i.e increase fermentation temperature when gravity reaches 1.xxx? Thinking of using it for a stepped lager fermentation profile.
Im having the same issue here. Using the Tilt V2 on an RPi 3B+ freshly installed by following fermentrack documentation. Temp controller integration went perfect but when I try to install the Tilt (using Bluetooth) I have the same error code than you. @thorax , any idea what go wrong? Ih been playing with bluetoothctl and clearing the filters but stilk not working. Version of BlueZ is 5.5.First off want to say thank you to Thorrak, et al. for all the hard work that goes into making something this complex easy to use. I've got my system up and running and have just one hiccup right now, tiltbridge integration. When I go to add a new gravity sensor, i go through the flow to add a new tiltbridge, select that tiltbridge for the new gravity sensor and then when it is set up, the gravity sensor show "connection type: Bluetooth"...
I'm sure i'm missing something simple, but i'm at the point of just repeating the same steps hoping for a different outcome... Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
-Josh
For the ESP8266 firmware, I2C is the only firmware version. For the Arduino there's two firmware versions, one with a regular parallel LCD and the other with I2C. You'd just have to use the right one.Question though, I'd love to add a display and have an I2C on the way (all I have space for) but I'm not sure where to get the Arduino code to use an I2C display?
I think it's been done on the Uno too now? (tried loads of searching and reading but there's so much info on this I couldn't find the bit I was looking for!)
That’s no problem. Give me a little bit to get to the office and get settled and I will give you some instructions.
I'm sure you are aware of this thread on the ST1000+ but just in case you're not.Wowzers
I was only expecting a hyperlink.
I'm actually familiar with most of that as I embarked on this journey when looking for a way to slowly ramp up temps which wasnt easily possible with my STC-1000.
Apologies, missed this. I'll take a look.Im having the same issue here. Using the Tilt V2 on an RPi 3B+ freshly installed by following fermentrack documentation. Temp controller integration went perfect but when I try to install the Tilt (using Bluetooth) I have the same error code than you. @thorax , any idea what go wrong? Ih been playing with bluetoothctl and clearing the filters but stilk not working. Version of BlueZ is 5.5.
Thanks
If I start typing I have a hard time stopping.Wowzers
I was only expecting a hyperlink.
The Arduino still (IMHO) has a slight edge as you can use all of the pins/functionality and still get BT or Wireless (albeit with an add-on), but the ESP8266 sure is simple.I'm actually familiar with most of that as I embarked on this journey when looking for a way to slowly ramp up temps which wasnt easily possible with my STC-1000.
I found Brewpi but didn't need all the functionality of the Spark based version.
That led me to Brewpi Remix which is when I bought the Arduino.
I then found (and prefered the look of) fermentrack so constructed that but with the Uno as by then I already had it rather than the ESP8266 which I would have used had I found Fermentrack at the start.
That makes sense. Yes, the shift register is the "chip" and it sits on a shield that plugs in on top of the Arduino.In regards to space. I have space for the display... Just... And I mean just. I doubt I have space for the extra wires the non I2C display needs. Let alone the additional chip I believe it needs.
/usr/share/arduino/hardware/tools/avrdude -F -e -p atmega328p -c arduino -b 115200 -P /dev/ttyACM0 -U flash:w:"/home/pi/brewpi-arduino-uno-i2c-0.2.12.hex" -C /usr/share/arduino/hardware/tools/avrdude.conf
If I start typing I have a hard time stopping.
The Arduino still (IMHO) has a slight edge as you can use all of the pins/functionality and still get BT or Wireless (albeit with an add-on), but the ESP8266 sure is simple.
That makes sense. Yes, the shift register is the "chip" and it sits on a shield that plugs in on top of the Arduino.
I just finished making a PR to @Thorrak in order to support the I2C firmware with an update pinList.py. If he doesn't merge it by the time you need it, you can hit that link and download the changed file and update your own local copy.
I honestly have no idea where he does his logic to download the actual firmware so unless someone can point me to it, you'll have to upgrade that manually. Download the firmware here, and flash with the following command:
You may have to change the port, and you will need to make sure you stop Fermentrack before trying to flash.Code:/usr/share/arduino/hardware/tools/avrdude -F -e -p atmega328p -c arduino -b 115200 -P /dev/ttyACM0 -U flash:w:"/home/pi/brewpi-arduino-uno-i2c-0.2.12.hex" -C /usr/share/arduino/hardware/tools/avrdude.conf
Does anyone think that it would be possible to use a dimmer on a larger watt bulb to reduce the heat output? Or is this a bad idea? It's an idea I've been contemplating. I bought a 100 watt reptile bulb and fear it's probably too much. I suppose it would probably cost less to replace the bulb...
Old school dimmers are designed to do exactly that, and a single 100w bulb isn't going to overload one of those (not even close).
Not a bad idea actually - I have a few of those that were decommissioned when I installed a crap ton of recessed LED lighting - which isn't compatible with old school dimmers. I might give that a go
Cheers!
Wow that's a good idea. If you try it, let us know if it works.
No, but the one place I see you may run into issues is the web server. HA seems to use a non-standard port which should not conflict with Fermentrack. Given that you will be working with two different web servers on the same platform, I think you should prepare yourself for some challenges however.Does anybody here use home assistant? I am planning on starting a home automation project, and would like to use the same rpi that I use for fermentrack. Is it possible?
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