Ferm. temp. for clean ale with US05?
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US05 is my go to yeast and I ferment between 63-65F. I just have the tape thermometers on the bucket for temp, so I don't know how accurate they are. I don't use plsner very often though. 2row, white wheat, etc works for me. I have heard about the peachy falvors but have not had them (so far)
I do like US-05 (and it's variants). I ferment using this yeast at basement temps. 64F in the winter and 72F in the summer. Made some wonderful brews with the US-05. IMO, workhorse yeast for all kinds of American ales.
Imhoppy
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Agree. I have used US-05 on several dozen brews always with good results at those temperatures. Mostly for brewing extract IPA's and Pale Ales. I sprinkle the dry yeast on top of the wort and let it do its magic.
couchsending
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US-05 is technically cleaner at warmer temps.. 68-70
You will get more fruit esters at lower temps. Seems counterintuitive I know.
You will get more fruit esters at lower temps. Seems counterintuitive I know.
Oldskewl
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^I have read the same in my research. I am currently brewing my first dry yeast beer as we speak. I have used liquid yeast from day 1. My ferm temp is set at 69F with the probe in a thermowell. It is a Union Craft Double Duckpin Clone. I will report back my outcome.
smata67
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I always ferment S05, WLP001, or Wyeast 1056 at 68F and get great results. It is right smack in the middle of the recommended range. No need to overthink this.
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kiwipen
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Do you aerate the wort?
couchsending
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You never need to aerate when using dry yeast.... maybe the best attribute of dry yeast.
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kiwipen
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This confuses me to hell. I've always heard how important aeration and rehydration is, and then Fermentis starts recommending just sprinkling the yeast and not aerate.
It does however appeal to the lazy part of me, and who am I to question them and their scientists?
Imhoppy
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Not necessarily with specific intent, other than agitation while cooling down when I stir the wort to improve the heat transfer rate or the splashing and mixing that occurs when transferring into the primary fermenter. I have never done forced O2 injections. Lag time from yeast pitch to active fermentation as soon as 4 hours, but typically averaging around 11-12 hours later.
couchsending
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Dry yeast is manufactured with enough sterols to assist reproduction you don’t need to add oxygen. It’s been something the dry yeast manufacturers have talked about for a while. It’s only recently they’ve started saying to not even bother with rehydration.
It’s one of the best reasons for homebrewers to use dry yeast especially if you don’t have bottles oxygen, a carb stone and ideally a flow meter. You can’t get sufficient oxygen into the wort by shaking. You can get some but never quite enough.
Liquid yeast needs additional oxygen.
It’s one of the best reasons for homebrewers to use dry yeast especially if you don’t have bottles oxygen, a carb stone and ideally a flow meter. You can’t get sufficient oxygen into the wort by shaking. You can get some but never quite enough.
Liquid yeast needs additional oxygen.
There's another thread recently where we talk about this very thing. Liquid yeast--aerate. Dry yeast? Don't need to. I'm still doing some experimenting with doing at least some aeration with dry yeast, don't have a conclusion yet.
The reason for no aerating, btw, is that the dry yeast is supposed to be packed with sterols, which are the building blocks of cell walls. They need this to bud new cells, whereas other yeast needs oxygen to produce that.
Mer-man
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The corollary is that if you go to repitch dry yeast, it has become liquid yeast -- and thus needs aeration.
From what I gather the sterols make it unnecessary to aerate but I don't think it will hurt anything if you do. I don't notice any difference from when I rehydrated, aerated, did not aerate and sprinkle dry.
I ferment US-05 about 65-68. Never fails me.
I ferment US-05 about 65-68. Never fails me.
Imhoppy
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For more info on this topic, suggest taking a look here:
https://www.morebeer.com/articles/how_yeast_use_oxygen
https://www.morebeer.com/articles/how_yeast_use_oxygen
BrewnWKopperKat
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FWIW: "Brewing Techniques Magazine was published from 1993 to 1999. It was full of great articles on homebrewing. Unfortunately it is now defunct." (according to HomeBrewFinds).
I'm disappointed that the "Brewing Techniques" articles at the site look like they were written in the early 2010s when the initial publication date is often much older. That being said, the articles may be valid (or at least interesting reading) in 2019 .
I'm disappointed that the "Brewing Techniques" articles at the site look like they were written in the early 2010s when the initial publication date is often much older. That being said, the articles may be valid (or at least interesting reading) in 2019 .
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kiwipen
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It fermented at 20c/68f for the first days, then 21c/70f. When neared completion I slowly raised it to 27,5/81,5f. I used several days to raise it to that point. I did it to help the yeast finish the job, and clean up post fermentation if that's a thing.
Is it too high? Or should I just RDWHAHB?
Is it too high? Or should I just RDWHAHB?
The critical time is the first few days, after that it partially depends on the extent of fermentation. In most cases fermentation will be nearly complete in those first few days. If you have a slow fermentation and raise the temperature you could be jumping the gun. In your case you should have been past that period when you raised the temperature.
On a side note. Most raise the temperature to about 70 - 72f to allow the yeast to finish. I see no need to raise it higher, but that is summer storage temperatures so it shouldn't hurt.
Why is everyone scared of esters? They aren't a bad thing. In some styles they're even desired. This Pilsner SMASH ale in particular that this guy is making is going to be very boring without some ester contributions. I would pitch at 65, slowly ramp to 70 over 7-10 days. Raise the temperate 1 degree per day once fermentation starts slowing down. Do not be needlessly afraid of esters.
I sort of agree with the no-need to aerate US-05. Pure O2 might be overkill, but we shook the hell out of our carboys when we used US05. I have had better results by rehydrating before pitching, so I would always rehydrate irregardless of aeration/oxygenation.
I sort of agree with the no-need to aerate US-05. Pure O2 might be overkill, but we shook the hell out of our carboys when we used US05. I have had better results by rehydrating before pitching, so I would always rehydrate irregardless of aeration/oxygenation.
I agree that in some beers esters are desirable.
Those are the fermentation temperatures that I use when fermenting with US-05 to limit esters. If you want esters go warmer.
I have rehydrated and just sprinkled US-05. I have not noticed a difference so I have stopped rehydrating dry yeasts.
