FastFerment conical fermenter??????

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I started a lager in my fast fermenter for the first time 3 days ago. I was starting to get concerned because there was no airlock activity, but I can see the yeast in the collection ball increasing in size. I shook the fermenter up and the lid was in fact leaking. I was thinking what I could use for a gasket and I found this.
Silicone airline tubing used for air pumps in fish tanks. It's very flexible and on the cheap side for the length. Here are the pictures, and I have no lid leaks now.
I cut off a piece 1 inch long and cut out 3/16" down the length to join the 2 ends together. I placed the tubing in the lid and cut the appropriate length so the ends fit tight together from the roundness of the lid. I placed it on top of the original gasket and it fits tight enough against the lid threads to stay in place.

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The new gaskets are soft and grippy which makes unscrewing the lid difficult. I place the new soft gasket in the lip first then put the old firm gasket on top of it. Makes unscrewing the lid easier.

Thanks very much. Will give this a go tomorrow.

On a side note I had nothing but problem with the original gasket falling in, after complaining through emails they sent me some replacements!
 
I started a lager in my fast fermenter for the first time 3 days ago. I was starting to get concerned because there was no airlock activity, but I can see the yeast in the collection ball increasing in size. I shook the fermenter up and the lid was in fact leaking. I was thinking what I could use for a gasket and I found this.
Silicone airline tubing used for air pumps in fish tanks. It's very flexible and on the cheap side for the length. Here are the pictures, and I have no lid leaks now.
I cut off a piece 1 inch long and cut out 3/16" down the length to join the 2 ends together. I placed the tubing in the lid and cut the appropriate length so the ends fit tight together from the roundness of the lid. I placed it on top of the original gasket and it fits tight enough against the lid threads to stay in place.

View attachment 347470View attachment 347471

Used this idea and think it is working well, but when I opened the lid of the fermenter there is virtually no foam on surface of wort. Doesn't seem to be fermenting, however there is a build up of what appears to be yeast in the ball and above a little. Not sure I had a leak in the lid at all. It appears no fermentation occurring.
 
Used this idea and think it is working well, but when I opened the lid of the fermenter there is virtually no foam on surface of wort. Doesn't seem to be fermenting, however there is a build up of what appears to be yeast in the ball and above a little. Not sure I had a leak in the lid at all. It appears no fermentation occurring.

The seal on the lid is important. It's there to keep the CO2 in the head-space stable and keep creepy crawlys out. But it should not affect fermentation itself. How long ago did you pitch your yeast? What strain and at what temp?
 
The seal on the lid is important. It's there to keep the CO2 in the head-space stable and keep creepy crawlys out. But it should not affect fermentation itself. How long ago did you pitch your yeast? What strain and at what temp?

WYEAST 2035 American Lager. pitched approx. 65 hours ago as of this AM when I last checked the valve for activity. Still none. Put in you seal fix 12 hours prior to that.
 
Kiddo took forever to go down for the night so didn't end up brewing which I guess is good cause I still needed to mount the Fast Fermenter and get things cleaned up and organized before brewing.

Here it is mounted in my stand up freezer. If I position it correctly I should be able to fit another one on the right side and maybe even one of my big mouths on the bottom if I wanted to do a specialty beer that needed a secondary.

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WYEAST 2035 American Lager. pitched approx. 65 hours ago as of this AM when I last checked the valve for activity. Still none. Put in you seal fix 12 hours prior to that.

Lager yeast is a bottom fermenting yeast but I'm not a lager guy. I would post your issues in the Fermenting & Yeast forum. Maybe someone there can help??
 
anyone using the new fastferment jacket for their fastfermenter? be interested in your feedback.
 
Didn't like the temp set up on my FF and wanted to add a sample port so I ordered a stainless steel faucet that they use on beverage jars from Amazon. It fits right into the spot for the thermo well and has 2 sets of silicone washers, one for the inside, one for the out side. Seals perfectly. Then I bought a 12" probe for an inkbird 1000 and inserted it through the top using a 1/4" ID grommet in a 5/16" hole. Haven't attached the inkbird yet but it will be set up with a heating pad on the FF. Nice being able to sample/test and the stainless steel cleans easily. I have also found the inkbird to be more accurate than any thermometer I've bought in the

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Using mine for the first time. Filled it up, place the top on, seem to be cross threading, pulled it off...no gasket. I am assuming it fell in, but would have thought they would have floated, apparently not. Went to the store to get more, they had to order them, so I took one side of a freezer ziplock bag and placed over the mouth, and screwed the lid on. Seemed to work fine, but never any activity in the air lock.

Store got the new gaskets in fairly quick, so popped off the top and replaced the bag with it, put the top back on, feels like it has sealed, but still no airlock activity.

And of course the lid is now hard as hell to get off.

Mine is new enough that it never came with the foam gasket, not really sure how one would get one now.

Still fermenting away as there is lots of foam on the top.

Good so far, all in one, no racking to do various jobs.

Bad, poor seal on the top, and not able to see when fermentation is finished. Probably just something to get used to, but would be great if they had put a 2" hole in the lid, with a piece of clear plastic you could see through to view if fermentation was complete.

BTW, had the guy at our local shop tell me to use Vaseline on the lid gasket to "keep it fresh". I was thinking it is silicon...doesn't really need to be kept "fresh", but seeing now that maybe the Vaseline would help the seal, and make the lid easier to come off. However don't know if I would want that on the inside of the lid, nearest the wort.
 
Bad, poor seal on the top, and not able to see when fermentation is finished. Probably just something to get used to, but would be great if they had put a 2" hole in the lid, with a piece of clear plastic you could see through to view if fermentation was complete.

That isn't a solid way of telling if fermentation is finished. Think about all the professional brewers with huge stainless steel conicals, they can't look without opening them up. They rely on gravity readings taken from a sample port.

BTW, had the guy at our local shop tell me to use Vaseline on the lid gasket to "keep it fresh". I was thinking it is silicon...doesn't really need to be kept "fresh", but seeing now that maybe the Vaseline would help the seal, and make the lid easier to come off. However don't know if I would want that on the inside of the lid, nearest the wort.

I wouldn't advise anyone to use Vaseline. If anything, I would use keg lube.
 
Using mine for the first time. Filled it up, place the top on, seem to be cross threading, pulled it off...no gasket. I am assuming it fell in, but would have thought they would have floated, apparently not. Went to the store to get more, they had to order them, so I took one side of a freezer ziplock bag and placed over the mouth, and screwed the lid on. Seemed to work fine, but never any activity in the air lock.


This drives me nuts. Every time I need to dry hop my beer the gasket is not in the lid. It doesn't float and I have to sanitize something else to fish it out. If this issue didn't exist I would think it was the best plastic conical out there!!! Also no airlock activity either.

Now my father in-law doesn't have this problem. He too has the silicone gasket. The gasket always stays put and he gets airlock activity which tells me his is sealing better than mine. What gives?
 
This drives me nuts. Every time I need to dry hop my beer the gasket is not in the lid. It doesn't float and I have to sanitize something else to fish it out. If this issue didn't exist I would think it was the best plastic conical out there!!! Also no airlock activity either.

Now my father in-law doesn't have this problem. He too has the silicone gasket. The gasket always stays put and he gets airlock activity which tells me his is sealing better than mine. What gives?

Not sure. The foam type ones are no longer available since they have switched to the silicon ones. I can't go any tighter....in fact I tried to get the top off (which I will have to in order to put the dry hops in) and it won't budge either. You would think the seal would be fine.

Not that concerned with it, I remember years ago making the canned kits, and all we ever did was just take a garbage bag over the top of the 5gal bucket, and secure it in place with packing tape over the bag, around the bucket.

They all turned out fine, not spoiled or oxidized. Would I do that now? No, but so long as it is well cleaned and sanitized before you put beer in it, you should be good. The CO2 that comes out around the top cover...not going to loose my mind over it.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElmCityWobblyPops View Post
Bad, poor seal on the top, and not able to see when fermentation is finished. Probably just something to get used to, but would be great if they had put a 2" hole in the lid, with a piece of clear plastic you could see through to view if fermentation was complete.
That isn't a solid way of telling if fermentation is finished. Think about all the professional brewers with huge stainless steel conicals, they can't look without opening them up. They rely on gravity readings taken from a sample port.

If there is no longer any activity in the fermenter, the yeast is done. If it wasn't done, it would still be giving off CO2, as of course this is a byproduct of the fermentation process. No CO2 being expelled, yeast is finished working.

Plus seeing as this is the first time using it, not really ready to go drilling holes in it just yet for a sample port.
 
If there is no longer any activity in the fermenter, the yeast is done. If it wasn't done, it would still be giving off CO2, as of course this is a byproduct of the fermentation process. No CO2 being expelled, yeast is finished working.

Plus seeing as this is the first time using it, not really ready to go drilling holes in it just yet for a sample port.

A lack of airlock activity does not mean that the fermentation is done. The *only* way to know is by taking a gravity reading. Look at secondary fermentation using Brettanomyces, very little to no airlock activity, but that yeast will take a beer from 1.008 to 1.002.
 
A lack of airlock activity does not mean that the fermentation is done. The *only* way to know is by taking a gravity reading. Look at secondary fermentation using Brettanomyces, very little to no airlock activity, but that yeast will take a beer from 1.008 to 1.002.

Great, but I am just using regular ole 1056.....when there is no more activity in the airlock, have it has been going for a week, and no krausen left and I am looking at the top of the beer. It is pretty much done.

Will I check the gravity reading, yes, but having used this yeast about 2 dozen times, it does the same thing every time. Ferments for 6-7 days, once it stops bubbling, its done.

Now I just have to get the cover off to put in the dry hops...and with as tight as this silicon ring is gripping the cover, that might be a fight.
 
Forgot to mention I also attached a sheet of very fine sandpaper to a piece of glass with spray adhesive and sanded the top of my FF so the lid seals down better.

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Not sure. The foam type ones are no longer available since they have switched to the silicon ones. I can't go any tighter....in fact I tried to get the top off (which I will have to in order to put the dry hops in) and it won't budge either. You would think the seal would be fine.

Not that concerned with it, I remember years ago making the canned kits, and all we ever did was just take a garbage bag over the top of the 5gal bucket, and secure it in place with packing tape over the bag, around the bucket.

They all turned out fine, not spoiled or oxidized. Would I do that now? No, but so long as it is well cleaned and sanitized before you put beer in it, you should be good. The CO2 that comes out around the top cover...not going to loose my mind over it.

I agree with you, but it just drives me nuts that when I remove the lid the gasket falls into the wort. Or sometimes it falls in when I am trying to seal up the fermenter after pitching the yeast. It still produces good beer, but just a PIA to me...
 
I use both gaskets. The original foam holds my new silicon in place. I'm not sure why the silicone gasket is not the same size as the foam 1. They must have liked the foam fit, since they released it. Even though it's ability to seal is not great. I have only lost a silicone gasket into the fermenter once since.
 
I use both gaskets. The original foam holds my new silicon in place. I'm not sure why the silicone gasket is not the same size as the foam 1. They must have liked the foam fit, since they released it. Even though it's ability to seal is not great. I have only lost a silicone gasket into the fermenter once since.


Yes, I do the same..although both my wall mounted FFS have been relegated to making the boss's wine...couldn't fit them in my lagering fridge...
 
BTW, had the guy at our local shop tell me to use Vaseline on the lid gasket to "keep it fresh". I was thinking it is silicon...doesn't really need to be kept "fresh", but seeing now that maybe the Vaseline would help the seal, and make the lid easier to come off. However don't know if I would want that on the inside of the lid, nearest the wort.

Keg lube not vaseline. I tried keg lube on the silicone gasket after the first time my gasket fell in, hoping the keg lube would help the gasket "stick" to the lid and create a better seal. Worked as wished the next time I had to put the top on. Then the next time after that, boom...gasket fell in.

Then I ordered a new gasket. It has fallen in once also. So...3 times the gasket has fell in, in about 6 batches fermented.
 
As others have stated, I use the original foam gasket to hold the new silicone gasket in the lid. It also doesn't stick to the lip of the opening like the silicone does so it makes it easier to uncrew the lid as well.

Back before the silicone gaskets were available, I made my own foam gasket out of craft foam from Wally World. I doubled up the original foam gasket and my homemade gasket in order to get it to seal. This may once again be useful to not only hold the silicone gasket in place but also make unscrewing the top easier since the craft foam won't be as sticky as the silicone. Just cut the craft foam gasket slightly oversize. It should wedge itself into the top with screw threads of the lid to help hold it in place. Just make sure to soak the craft foam gasket in starsan before attempting to use it just in case it falls in as well. May be worth a try??

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Well now on to my second time using it and am not being sold. Pitched a very healthy starter and still no activity in the airlock or any krausen. It's the same as my last batch, which all though never showed any activity did ferment and I hit my gravity spot on. I will take some gravity readings in a few days but it bothers me I can visibly see any activity. I cleaned the hell out of after the first use and made sure this time everything is wrapped very well with thread tape and also cleaned up the excess material on the lid.


Not sure what else to try
 
Well now on to my second time using it and am not being sold. Pitched a very healthy starter and still no activity in the airlock or any krausen. It's the same as my last batch, which all though never showed any activity did ferment and I hit my gravity spot on. I will take some gravity readings in a few days but it bothers me I can visibly see any activity. I cleaned the hell out of after the first use and made sure this time everything is wrapped very well with thread tape and also cleaned up the excess material on the lid.


Not sure what else to try

your FF Conical has more headspace than most fermenters and this is why you aren't seeing the activity. You also can't see through it, but I imagine you have krausen.. I can assure you though, if you brewed everything perfectly, you're going to have beer in the end! There is no reason for anything less. In fact, you could leave the lid off and still have activity, still have krausen and still have good beer!

I have multiple FF conical and I really like them. never had an issue, always have good beer. Cheers!
 
I have brewed multiple times in mine. And must say only about 50 percent of the time I see activity. But 100% of the time fermentation was complete. Believe me you may not see it. I added extra silicone rings etc. But still no visible activity half the time. But ease of emptying is a deal breaker. Used thread tape on everything etc.etc. etc.

Brew on!
 
your FF Conical has more headspace than most fermenters and this is why you aren't seeing the activity. You also can't see through it, but I imagine you have krausen.. I can assure you though, if you brewed everything perfectly, you're going to have beer in the end! There is no reason for anything less. In fact, you could leave the lid off and still have activity, still have krausen and still have good beer!

I have multiple FF conical and I really like them. never had an issue, always have good beer. Cheers!

I have brewed multiple times in mine. And must say only about 50 percent of the time I see activity. But 100% of the time fermentation was complete. Believe me you may not see it. I added extra silicone rings etc. But still no visible activity half the time. But ease of emptying is a deal breaker. Used thread tape on everything etc.etc. etc.

Brew on!

I am just surprised I see no activity in my airlock. Maybe I am just use to my Big Mouths that go crazy and half the time need a blow off tube.

Maybe I am just being to picky. I open the freezer door and it has that very familiar smell of fermenting beer. And like I mentioned my first batch did the same thing, no activity but it fermented out and I hit my numbers spot on and the beer taste great.


I guess different isn't bad, i do really enjoy using the collection ball.


Will take some readings tonight to see how it's doing.
 
Oh and I wrapped the hell out of everything with thread tape, including the lid. I would be VERY surprised if there is any spot that is leaking...
 
Have two of them bought in September of 14. About 20 brews in that time. Put a second silicone gasket on each, purchased from Adventures in Home Brewing.
Never have a problem with sealing.
The airlock is bubbling just fine.
No problems with gaskets falling in.
Can be a little tough to get the lid off at times.

Added a sampling port with a step drill and a tap from my lhbs.
A nice feature.

Never any blow off from brews that would have definitely required them in a carboy.

I don't collect yeast from the ball, I just make a larger starter.

Very, very happy with these things for the price.
 
That foam is pretty safe, it is a polyester closed cell foam. I use it to make gun cleaning mats and it is very chemical resistant. If anyone needs a precision cut gasket let me know, shouldn't cost much to run one on the laser cutter... I also have that foam in a 5mm thickness!


As others have stated, I use the original foam gasket to hold the new silicone gasket in the lid. It also doesn't stick to the lip of the opening like the silicone does so it makes it easier to uncrew the lid as well.

Back before the silicone gaskets were available, I made my own foam gasket out of craft foam from Wally World. I doubled up the original foam gasket and my homemade gasket in order to get it to seal. This may once again be useful to not only hold the silicone gasket in place but also make unscrewing the top easier since the craft foam won't be as sticky as the silicone. Just cut the craft foam gasket slightly oversize. It should wedge itself into the top with screw threads of the lid to help hold it in place. Just make sure to soak the craft foam gasket in starsan before attempting to use it just in case it falls in as well. May be worth a try??

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Picked up one of the FF a week ago and put it together for a leak test. The union fitting leaks like crazy. I took the knob off and tightened the internal valve but that didn't help at all.

Has anyone run into this or know of a resolution? I searched the forum and didn't get anything new.
 
Picked up one of the FF a week ago and put it together for a leak test. The union fitting leaks like crazy. I took the knob off and tightened the internal valve but that didn't help at all.

Has anyone run into this or know of a resolution? I searched the forum and didn't get anything new.


Haven't seen or heard of this issue. Is it installed right side up? I've heard of some people installing it upside down before. Still not sure about why it's leaking but thought I would ask.

Also, their support is amazing!! I've been in touch with them for other concerns/issues and they are very willing to stand behind their products.

Good luck.
 
Haven't seen or heard of this issue. Is it installed right side up? I've heard of some people installing it upside down before. Still not sure about why it's leaking but thought I would ask.

Also, their support is amazing!! I've been in touch with them for other concerns/issues and they are very willing to stand behind their products.

Good luck.

It's installed correctly...

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Where is it leaking? The union joint, where connects to the conical or to the collection ball? The conical connection or collection ball connection uses more Teflon tape than normal fittings. If it is where the union joins together the gasket might not be seated properly. It looks like you didn't, but Teflon tape doesn't go on the union joint either.
 
Picked up one of the FF a week ago and put it together for a leak test. The union fitting leaks like crazy. I took the knob off and tightened the internal valve but that didn't help at all.

Has anyone run into this or know of a resolution? I searched the forum and didn't get anything new.

Where exactly is it leaking from? Is it missing the black o-ring in the main body where the union part tightens up against?
 
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