$@*#! Failed SS kettle drill. Ideas...

[cannman]

Now I've done it...

I started drilling a hole in my kettle to install a port for recirculating wort... And I made a bullet hole. I didn't use oil, tried to drill fast, and now I'm worried i hardened the steel and will be near impossible to finish an appropriate size hole

On top of it all, the inside of the kettle shows the metal pushed through... Like a bullet hole! I need to finish what I've started. Do you think I should drill from the inside out with oil? Grind it down first? Ideas!

I'm using a platinum tipped step bit...

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1432403949.864759.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1432403961.414477.jpg

 

[lschiavo]

Wow. I have never seen anything like that with a step bit. I use mine quite often actually the same one for many years and never use oil. Low speed and firm pressure are the key. If you can fit the drill inside, it should cut easily on the burr. Make sure you are getting a good chip while cutting. You probably killed that step on your bit but if you get past it, you should have some sharp steps remaining. Good luck.

BTW, if you have a dremel and a cutoff wheel, you should be able to sharpen up the step bit.

 

[Pour_Man]

Or you could grab a Greenlee punch. Expensive, but you'll never have that problem again.

 

[Timdogg]

Try the $4.87 keg tool thread

 

[wbarber69]

Yeah if you're planning on soldering in a fitting you could use the dimple tool like timdogg said

 

[Owly055]

It appears that you didn't have any backing........but backing can be a problem on a curved surface. Some stainless is so hard it's extremely difficult to drill. I would finish the hole carefully with a carbide die grinder burr......... You can often use these in a dremmel if you don't have a die grinder.


H.W.

 

[Bobby_M]

That hole is work hardened so the best bet would be to use a punch. If you can't find anyone local that has a punch, the next best thing would be to grind it flat from the interior then try a step bit again. You need oil. You need pressure. You need a slow high torque drill.

 

[cannman]

I added a ton of oil, drilled from the inside with my workbench as leverage, and it was like butter!

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1432429940.464785.jpg

 

[wbarber69]

Yeah next time slow that bit down

 

[Silentdrinker]

Oh god I have a ton of holes to drill in my three 20 gal boilermakers (and a 15 gal) for An electric conversion and return ports. This thread is my nightmare. I have drilled so many holes with cheap step bits from harbor freight and never had an issue with or with out oil. But I also go really slow stopping at every step. I had been putting off doing this 'cause I've been hesitant using the step bit. I'll probably get a punch for these kettles. You should at least earn a commission for my purchase.

Good to see you got it fixed tough.

 

[cannman]

Just added a thermowell for my stc1000

Oil saves!

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1432430563.328540.jpg

 

[estricklin]

I had that same problem, used a grinder to finish the backside off and everything was fine, punches for me from now on! Can get an inexpensive set from harbor freight too. Not that it matters as much, I'm going to solder everything from now on too. Brew and learn!

 

[lschiavo]

Just added a thermowell for my stc1000

Oil saves!

View attachment 280136

Looks like you learned how to properly use that tool. The oil may have helped but I remain skeptical. Looking good

 

[podz]

You can buy a punch in Ikea for next to nothing. I just bought one not too long ago when making a hole for the faucet in my new stainless steel kitchen sink. It even came with a pocket-sized pipe cutter (now I've got 3 of those!).

Looks like this set is 12.99 USD in the USA.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/28512100/?query=28512100

 

[Firewalker11]

Annealing stainless is no fun either, 10 minutes (minimum) glowing orange and a fast quench to bring it back to soft enough to drill... A punch is the way to go.

 

[Silentdrinker]

You can buy a punch in Ikea for next to nothing. I just bought one not too long ago when making a hole for the faucet in my new stainless steel kitchen sink. It even came with a pocket-sized pipe cutter (now I've got 3 of those!).

Looks like this set is 12.99 USD in the USA.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/28512100/?query=28512100

1 1/4" punch is kiiiiiiiinda big for this application...

 

[podz]

1 1/4" punch is kiiiiiiiinda big for this application...

What is the proper size then?

 

[Silentdrinker]

What is the proper size then?

7/8" hole for a 1/2" ball valve.

 

[lschiavo]

What is the proper size then?

I am lucky enough to have greenlee hydraulic set at my disposal and have used every punch and die between 1/2 inch and 2 inch for work on my brewery. An element hole would be 1" trade size. 1/2 or 3/4 should work for smaller appurtenances.

 

[augiedoggy]

I fought and burned up 4 step bits before finally switching to a variable speed drill and with a little wd40 (I know its not proper cutting oil) I was able to drill 6 holes like a hot knife thru butter with no noticeable wear on the harbor freight step bit... going very slow was the key!!

 

[wbarber69]

Lower speed is the trick. If you can't find a low enough setting. A cordless drill works fine on the lowest setting and you can just submerge the thing to be drilled in water and you don't have to worry about heat.

 

[cannman]

I fought and burned up 4 step bits before finally switching to a variable speed drill and with a little wd40 (I know its not proper cutting oil) I was able to drill 6 holes like a hot knife thru butter with no noticeable wear on the harbor freight step bit... going very slow was the key!!

I used canola oil lol it is amazing what a little oil can do