Extract to all-grain

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abbysdad2006

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I am looking for help converting this extract recipe to an all grain one. Also, can you tell me how you came up with it, I would love to convert a few more I have. Thanks in advanced

DIPA

O.G 1.075-1.080

5 Gallon

6.6# Light LME
3# Golden LME
8 oz caramel 80L
8 oz Victory
4 oz Carapils

1 oz Summit (60 min)
1 oz Chinook (15min)
1 oz Centennial (10 min)
1 oz Cascade (5 min)
1 oz centennial (0 min)
1 oz cascade (dry hop)
 
I am looking for help converting this extract recipe to an all grain one. Also, can you tell me how you came up with it, I would love to convert a few more I have. Thanks in advanced

I highly suggest reading Mr. Palmer's free online book.

http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter3-4.html
I also suggest giving BeerSmith a trial run (I think you can use it for 21 days before deciding to buy it). Beer Smith will do the calculations for you.
But the basics are all about the gravity potential in the malt you are starting with. Figure out he gravity points total and the build your all grain recipe starting with your base malts first.
LME will yield around .034 - .038 points per LB LME in one gallon of water. Now a base grain like US 2row Pale malt has around .036 to .037 potential points. Potential points is an important concept because you are not going to get all that sugar out of the grain. So you have an extraction efficiency (based on mash temps and times) to multiply against your pounds of grain; as well as sparge method and amount of sparge water.
Your base grain will be 12.4LBs of two row Pale Malt (Beer Smith).

12.4LBs x .036 (gravity points per LB) x .75 (a likely efficiency number)=.3348 Total points. Now divide that by five (your number of gallons): .3348/5 = .0669 per gallon(lots of goodness here).


You can get a few gravity points from the specialty malts, but by and large most of your alcohol comes from the base grain.


By the way that looks like a very tasty recipe!
 
So all I would need for grain would be the 12.4# of 2 row?


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
That sounds about right. Just remember that the bigger the beer, generally the lower efficiency you will get. You may want to have some DME on hand to bump it up if you are low. You might also want to use some kind of brewing calculator. It makes the calculations easier.

Looks like a good recipe, BTW. I'm in the Portland so you can bring me one when it's all done. :D
 
I was thinking about adding some corn sugar to the boil? Would that make it too sweet? What kind of dme?


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
So all I would need for grain would be the 12.4# of 2 row?

As was mentioned, that's if you get about 75% efficiency. If you only get 65% efficiency you would need about 14.75 lb. Have you done any all grain brews to know about where you are with that?

I was thinking about adding some corn sugar to the boil? Would that make it too sweet? What kind of dme?

Sugar won't make it sweet it will thin and dry it out, which is why many folks include it in a DIPA. You would use light DME to bring up your OG if you undershoot your efficiency.
 
This will be my first all grain attempt. I bought extra corn sugar and we'll see how that goes. Should I boil it for 15 min? Also, for a 2.5 gallon batch, should I boil it for the full 60 min or scale that down as well?
 
Corn sugar will not help you at all. Don't add it. Dried Malt Extract (DME) or Light Malt Extract (LME) are what you should use to increase gravity if you fall short on your mash. Again, Beersmith can do the calculation of how much to add if you need to correct. You'll need a hydrometer or refractometer to measure your wort gravity to know.

My two cents...if you are just starting out with all grain, you might find a ready made recipe to follow. I've got two all grain batches under my belt. There are a lot more variables and techniques to master. Experimenting with recipes is just another variable. I have been using the Beersmith website to find and get reviews on recipes to make my decisions on what to brew. Beersmith will do the calculations of scaling down the recipe too.
 
Also, for a 2.5 gallon batch, should I boil it for the full 60 min or scale that down as well?

No you're still following the same recipe and times, just scaling down the ingredients (just like if you're boiling only half a box of spaghetti - you don't cut the boil time in half). All grain wort needs a full length boil to drive off DMS, and hop additions require the correct boil time to extract the anticipated IBU's.
 
Plugging it into the Brewer's Friend online tool
http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator/

Using Pilsner malt for LME
and 2 row pale for golden

8.3 lbs of Pilsner
3.7 lbs of pale two row

assuming 75% efficiency......... which might be optimistic depending on your process.

Do those grains sound like reasonable equivalents?

This was done by simply entering the original values and writing down the OG, then changing one to grain, and adjusting the weight until the OG matched, then doing the same with the other.............

I am also assuming you are starting out with 7.5 gallons ............

H.W.

I am looking for help converting this extract recipe to an all grain one. Also, can you tell me how you came up with it, I would love to convert a few more I have. Thanks in advanced

DIPA

O.G 1.075-1.080

5 Gallon

6.6# Light LME
3# Golden LME
8 oz caramel 80L
8 oz Victory
4 oz Carapils

1 oz Summit (60 min)
1 oz Chinook (15min)
1 oz Centennial (10 min)
1 oz Cascade (5 min)
1 oz centennial (0 min)
1 oz cascade (dry hop)
 
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