Element Density

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Really does not matter since it will only ever be used with water. It might burn up faster if dry fired than a ulwd element.

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Some folks claim they've scorched their wort using higher density elements.

ULWD elements help to ensure you won't end up with a "smoked" beer as well as helps give a little leniency with dry firing.

I, personally, went with a fold back ULWD element. If you can afford the extra space, you can do the same.

I went with this guy. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RD7MK0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


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I have a ULWD 5500 Watt element in my brew kettle but I would not waste my money on another one, I'd buy a 5500 Watt fold back style element instead. A friend of mine has a stainless CAMCO 5500 Watt fold back style element from Home Depot in his brew pot and he never has a problem with scorching, even with his light colored wheat beers.
 
I totally understand the rational for using the low density elements for RIMS or BK but my question was more about HLT where the element is only touching water.
 
I have a ULWD 5500 Watt element in my brew kettle but I would not waste my money on another one, I'd buy a 5500 Watt fold back style element instead. A friend of mine has a stainless CAMCO 5500 Watt fold back style element from Home Depot in his brew pot and he never has a problem with scorching, even with his light colored wheat beers.
I think if you only brew all grain and stir or whirlpool continuously this is true.... but the surface of the non ulwd elements are more capable of scortching the wort... especially when they come on contact with liquid extract. if you premix the extract and water you would be safer.
I use a ulwd fold back wavy element myself and for 20-30 bucks I dont see what all the fuss is about to save what 10 bucks?
 
I totally understand the rational for using the low density elements for RIMS or BK but my question was more about HLT where the element is only touching water.
just be sure to premix the ph buffer so it doesnt rest on the element but otherwise it would be fine... I still dont really see the point though they are almost the same price?
 
just be sure to premix the ph buffer so it doesnt rest on the element but otherwise it would be fine... I still dont really see the point though they are almost the same price?

I have 100QT pots that have an ID of 19.5". I am trying to keep everything as low in the pot as possible to minimize the amount of water I have to use to cover the herms coil and element. 1 gallon is like .75" in my setup.
 
just be sure to premix the ph buffer so it doesnt rest on the element but otherwise it would be fine... I still dont really see the point though they are almost the same price?

Scorch something on one batch and there goes any savings...
 
How many times do I have to say this is for my HLT only. How can I scorch water?

Use pretty much what you want in your HLT. You will be happy with it as long as it has adequate wattage to heat the volume of water in your vessel. Heat density is a non-issue in a HLT.

Yes, I read and understood your original question:)
 
If you have particularly hard water, the high density element can develop scaling faster, so you might have to be more diligent with a cleaning regimen than with a low watt density.
 
If you have particularly hard water, the high density element can develop scaling faster, so you might have to be more diligent with a cleaning regimen than with a low watt density.

Are there really any adverse consequences to element mineral scale in a HLT application?

The ones I have replaced in water heaters failed after literally tens of thousands hours of operation, and have had a lot of scale build up.

It seems unlikely that the mineral scale on an element in a HLT that only operates a couple hundred hours a year would adversely impact lifespan or performance.
I would certainly worry more about failure due to accidental dry-firing, rather than mineral scale.

Having said that, cleaning the element certainly won't hurt anything if you have nothing better do.
 
Are there really any adverse consequences to element mineral scale in a HLT application?

The ones I have replaced in water heaters failed after literally tens of thousands hours of operation, and have had a lot of scale build up.

It seems unlikely that the mineral scale on an element in a HLT that only operates a couple hundred hours a year would adversely impact lifespan or performance.
I would certainly worry more about failure due to accidental dry-firing, rather than mineral scale.

Having said that, cleaning the element certainly won't hurt anything if you have nothing better do.

Yes, I doubt this will come into play on a homebrew scale, but would be something to consider if designing a commercial system. I thought I'd throw it out there nonetheless, but its the only reason I can think of to not use a HD element in an HLT.
 

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