eBIAB recirculating system upgrade assistance

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specialkayme

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I currently use a Spike 15g single vessel eBIAB set up with a Nylon Brew-in-a-Bag and a 5,500 ULWD heating element, and a Still Dragon controller. I still have two extra tri-clover ports on the kettle that "haven't been spoken for yet" during the mash (the intention was to have the bottom one house a thermometer and the top house a recirculating port of sorts, or something like that if I decided to expand in the future), although I use the top port with a steamslayer (love it!) during the boil.
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Problem: I can't regulate the mash temp. I'm losing 10-15 degrees in an hour mash. I've tried insulating, I've tried wrapping the entire kettle in a sleeping bag, I've tried putting the sleeping bag in the dryer to prewarm it before wrapping it up, and none of it matters. The temp loss is making me somewhat frustrated, and I want to fix the issue. I'm tired of adding more duct tape (more insulation) and want a better control over the temp. I think a temp controlled recirculating system would be best. And yet, I don't know what I'm doing in designing a better system.

I'm assuming I'll need a pump to recirculate the wort. I'm also assuming I won't be able to continue to use the nylon bag (having it sit directly on the heating element). I'm also assuming I'll need a better controler to dial in the temp while it's recirculating. But, that's all I really know.

Anyone willing to help me come up with a better design? Do I need a metal basket instead of a nylon bag? Add a pump (like this: https://www.morebeer.com/products/riptide-brewing-pump-blichmann-engineering.html), and a controller (like this: https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/ebrewing-1v/products/econtroller-1v)?

I only want to "cry once." While I won't say price is no option, I don't want to buy cheap now and upgrade later.

So any help?
 
Regrading temperature drop: Are you doing full volume mash, or are you sparging/rinsing your grain bag after mashing?

When I did BIAB I had much less temperature drop when I did full volume mashing.
 
I think you need to look deeper into process.

If you heat strike water to a temp, accounting for grain temp, and indoors with a bare naked kettle you will NOT lose more than 5 degrees or so after the temp stabilizes in an hour. Water is resistant to temp change, the grain itself provides the interior with insulation.....there is a measurement or process error here somewhere I think. Or your brewing area is quite cold.
 
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