dual 1500w 120v elements

[bluebarnaclebrewing]

I have two circuits (a 20amp and 15amp) that I want to use to run 2 1500w elements. Both receptacles are GFCI.

Would #14 or #12 wire gauge be more appropriate for my elements? I've been reading what I can but the more I read the more I realize I don't know much about it. I have someone doing the work for me but I have to get the supplies.

thanks for any input.

 

[TexasWine]

Making some assumptions here, as it's not clear from your post what you're system is going to look like (elements plugged directly into the wall, or a control panel, or something else entirely?).

Assuming you have a control panel, if it were me I'd go with 12 gauge and design the system to be good for 20 amps. That way if you ever feel the urge to go up to 2000 watt elements, you're covered.

 

[bluebarnaclebrewing]

hey thanks for the reply. Should have clarified that I'm just going to plug these into the wall until I hit my mash temp, unplug, biab mash, pull the bag and then plug them both on.

Others in my homebrew club do this and both plugged in gives a vigorous boil but nothing crazy. eventually I'd like to add a pump and controller to dial things in. Just getting my feet wet for now.

 

[TexasWine]

In that case, just get a couple of 12 gauge extension cords and call it good. You can scavenge wire from the extension cords if you need to wire pig tails on your elements.

Alternately, go with a couple of BrewHardware.com Hot Rods and wire extension cords directly to them. I've done exactly that, twice.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm

 

[bluebarnaclebrewing]

I have these on the way arriving soon. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B077TPD4L7/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I have two triclamp ferrules on my kettle so it should be a pretty simple set up.

 

[augiedoggy]

With extension cords you always want to do with a heavier cable than what would normally be needed... 14 awg is normally enough for the 13 amps or so the element will draw but most 14awg extension cords are only rated for 10 amps so 12 awg would be best especially for longer cords.

The elements you bought are pretty slick,

 

[augiedoggy]

just saw these too...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heating-El...hash=item4b303e43ba:m:mSrjaMZuXM6YGEzkMB3bqww

 

[nrjones89]

Make sure the elements are ULWD otherwise you will fry and scorch the wort.

 

[bluebarnaclebrewing]

They came today and they're pretty sweet. Really well made

I read somewhere that you should use 10 gauge wire if you're not using a controller. Anyone want to weigh in?

I'm using these plugs http://www.leviton.com/en/products/16694

 

[augiedoggy]

There is absolutely no reason to use 10awg wire for a 13amp load I think you were reading about a 5500w setup..... It will arch a bit when plugging in and unplugging which may damage the outlet over time plugging it in while hot without a power switch though this is regardless to wire size

 

[bluebarnaclebrewing]

Gotcha that makes sense. the plugs have a manual reset so I could actually use those to turn them on and off while plugged in.

 

[augiedoggy]

Gotcha that makes sense. the plugs have a manual reset so I could actually use those to turn them on and off while plugged in.

if your talking about the gfci test and rest buttons I dont know if thats good for the gfci to be used as a on off button over and over... maybe someone else who knows more about this can chime it.

It it were me Id wire a simple heavy duty wall switch to an outlet/plug in a box. it will still eventually need to be replaced but it beats replacing the plug and a lot easier to control.

 

[bluebarnaclebrewing]

That does sound like a better idea. do you have any links of anyone who has done this? Seems like a pretty simple fix.

 

[augiedoggy]

I dont sorry... its really a basic wiring thing though... if you know anyone whos replaced a wall oulet of swtch they should be able to buy and build it with components from the local hardware store pretty easily.

 

[TexasWine]

That does sound like a better idea. do you have any links of anyone who has done this? Seems like a pretty simple fix.

Get one of these.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-4-in-x-2-in-PVC-Junction-Box-E989NNJ-CAR/100404097

And one of these.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-20-Amp-Single-Pole-Toggle-Switch-1-Pack-GSW-110/100184840

And a couple of strain reliefs.

Install the switch and call it a day.

 

[augiedoggy]

^ I didnt have the best of luck with those switches myself. If you look at my build thread in my signature you'll see I used them in my first panel and all but one failed on me with use. to be fair I actuated them multiple times a brew session so..

 

[bluebarnaclebrewing]

would it be different running on 120v as opposed to 240v in terms of wear and tear? I don't brew all that often I'm just looking for a safe and economical way to turn them on and off.

It needs to be portable so I liked the idea of the simple toggle switch. Plug in my GFCI plug with the switch turned off.. test my GFCI then away we go.

 

[augiedoggy]

personally I would just get the heavy duty wall switch rated at 20 amps. They sell them there I use one as a power switch for my fermenter control panel for power... they are like $7. The mechanics and contacts are much bigger.

I used to replace those little switches linked above all the time on the heat lamps at the restaurant I was a maintenance man for.. 2 or the 4 switches I used on my main panel only seen 12v DC (for my DC pumps)and still mechanically failed.

 

[bluebarnaclebrewing]

In confused on how you mount the switch in the box (forgive my ignorance)

do I cut a hole for just the little switch.. do I also need a face plate like you see on walls? Having a hard time seeing one during the build to know what to expect. I'm a visual learner.

 

[augiedoggy]

In confused on how you mount the switch in the box (forgive my ignorance)

do I cut a hole for just the little switch.. do I also need a face plate like you see on walls? Having a hard time seeing one during the build to know what to expect. I'm a visual learner.

if you use the 20a wall switch like I recommended you use a regular metal plate they make for the box with the switch opening. if you use the smaller switch you just drill a hole in a blank metal plate and install it through that.

 

[TexasWine]

^ I didnt have the best of luck with those switches myself. If you look at my build thread in my signature you'll see I used them in my first panel and all but one failed on me with use. to be fair I actuated them multiple times a brew session so..

Interesting. I haven't had any problems with them so far, and I've been using them about two years I think. They don't get cycled on/off much. The ones I use for pumps get the most use.

 

[augiedoggy]

i suppose I could have just gotten a bad lot of them but like I said I used to have to replace them on our heat lamps in the restaurant enough where I would buy a couple extras from home depot to have on hand for the next failure when they failed they would actually feel different when you switched them the rocker part inside would become damages.