Dry hopping my double NEIPA

[SMOKEU]

I got a partial mash extract IPA kit from a brew shop that I modified by adding oats, wheat, and more LME so the OG was 1.082.

For dry hopping, the kit comes with 35g Amarillo and 35g Simcoe. I plan on adding these hops that came with the kit as well as adding additional dry hops.

I also have the following hops available:

Citra (70g)
El Dorado (100g)
Mosaic (100g)

I want this to be a VERY hoppy brew that's bursting with tropical fruit aromas. I plan on dry hopping with around 200g total for a 25L (6 gal) batch. How much of each of those hops should I use? Also with this huge quantity of hops, should I be using a hop bag? I plan on dry hopping for 5 days including a 2 day cold crash before bottling.

 

[Jag75]

I did 2 oz citra , 2 oz mosaic and Amarillo. I do use bags because I dont cold crash . Plus I dry hopped twice so I think it was about 10 - 12 oz total . So 58g of each

 

[TurnipGreen]

If you are going to cold crash you won’t need to use a hop bag. Even with a ton of hops.

 

[Day-Day]

If you are going to cold crash you won’t need to use a hop bag. Even with a ton of hops.

^ This is true^... I'd also suggest dry hopping twice... with a cold crash between them.

Example:

Dry hop 2 or 3 days after pitching the yeast

once you've reached your terminal gravity cold crash for 24-48 hours

Bring it back up to the low to mid 60's F... add more dry hops.... leave them for 3-5 days

Cold crash again... then package.

The theory is that by crashing the yeast out you won't lose so much of the good hop oils that stick to the yeast when dry hopping... a lot of people who brew NEIPA's swear by this technique... instead of the more tradition method (for NEIPA's) of adding all of your dry hops during active fermentation.

 

[Dgallo]

That 340 grams which is like a 12 oz dryhop. No reason to use that much hops.

If you’re inexperienced dryhoping and/or anti oxidation practices drop it to a maximum of 120gr or 4 oz

 

[SMOKEU]

Interesting idea about doing a cold crash in-between dry hop additions, although this one is very slow to ferment. 14 days since pitching and the gravity is still at 1.022.

I wasn't planning on adding all 340g of hops - I'm aiming for no more than 200g, but I'm not sure how much of each of those hops I should add. I was just listing the hops I have available, and whichever hops I don't use for this brew I will use for the next.

 

[TurnipGreen]

That 340 grams which is like a 12 oz dryhop. No reason to use that much hops.

If you’re inexperienced dryhoping and/or anti oxidation practices drop it to a maximum of 120gr or 4 oz

I have dry hopped on the tail end of active fermentation. Just like you say it did not bring out the same floral notes of the hops.

But I’ve never heard of 2 cold crashes, dropping out the yeast first. Do you do that in a closed system? I would think you’d risk oxygen getting in the fermenter with the expansion and contraction of everything.

I might try this out. I’m Planning a pale ale for next weekend.

 

[Dgallo]

I have dry hopped on the tail end of active fermentation. Just like you say it did not bring out the same floral notes of the hops.

But I’ve never heard of 2 cold crashes, dropping out the yeast first. Do you do that in a closed system? I would think you’d risk oxygen getting in the fermenter with the expansion and contraction of everything.

I might try this out. I’m Planning a pale ale for next weekend.

The idea behind crashing before dryhoping will cause a good portion of the yeast to drop out of suspension. There are really to reason for this, the first is that yeast and oil have an attraction, so when the yeast drops out after dryhoping it will strip a portion of the oils with it. The second reason is to minimize hopcreep. Less active yeast in suspension will greatly reduce the possibility of hop creep.

But like you said, this process is a double edged sword because it also increases your oxidation risk. So unless you have a closed system or a way to manage the suckback when crashing, it actually would do more harm than good.

I have a closed system, I modified my fermonster lid to have two ball lock posts and a dip tube. I’ll first hook my co2 line to my fermenter and set the regulator to 2 psi. That way when the temp drops and the negative pressure is created, my regulator will kick on an equalize the pressure with pure co2. Then after the 24-36 hr crash, I will warm the beer back up to about 60-65 to dryhop. I will connect my co2 line to my FV liquid post when I open the lid to dryhop this way I can run the co2 and not have any o2 enter when I’m putting in the dryhop. Let it go 3 days and the dryhop again the same way for 2 days. Then do my final crash. Then I close transfer to a purged keg.