Dry beer

[Radicaldata]

Hello all,

I am new to this forum and as such have not found anything yet on the subject of dry beer.

Can anyone please tell me what they find good for producing a dryer beer.
I have used a packet of enzymes from the local brew shop, but it is presently aging
and have not tested it yet.
I use kit brewing such as Coopers Mexican Cerveza and Amarillo hops.

Many thanks.

 

[Bubbles2]

Dryness comes from the Yeast Choice, such as SAF 05 or 04, Higher alcohol such as starting with a higher start gravity, like 1065 and the yeast take it down to 1005 that is called attenuation. The other thing that will give you that is lowering your PH. This is popular with IPA's and Front forward Hops. The choice of grain, Rye is dryer than Wheat if the roast is equal.
It looks like you are using kits to start with, I started with two kits and now have my own recipes and have 30 thus far. This is where you can decide if a bitter is a dry you are looking for since you mentioned Amarillo Hops as an example.
Brewing is like cooking, your first or second red sauce or clams might be just okay but after making the recipe a handful of times you find what is preferred. I can tell you that if you stay consistent with say 3-4 recipes and use the same yeast you will find what does what at boiling time.

 

[RPh_Guy]

Can anyone please tell me what they find good for producing a dryer beer.

• Simple sugar adjuncts.
• Highly attentive yeast (e.g. Saison or other diastaticus Saccharomyces, or Brettanomyces).
• Mashing long and low (e.g. 2 hours at 145°F)
• Adding glucoamylase enzyme to the fermenter.
• Increasing the sulfate level.

 

[myndflyte]

I've brewed 2 Saisons this year using Wyeast 3711 and both have finished at 1.000. Both were mashed at about 150F but I mashed overnight. Then after a few days, I ramp up the temperature with a brew belt and can get it to almost 80F. 3711 is special in that you can ramp the temp without getting off flavors so if you wanted to go that route, make sure the yeast you use is ok with high temps.

 

[Beer666]

Gluco300 works well. Made some low carb lagers with it. A 1035 wort finishes at 1000 making a 4.5% beer. Also seems to help clarity.

 

[Lefou]

• Simple sugar adjuncts.
• Highly attentive yeast (e.g. Saison or other diastaticus Saccharomyces, or Brettanomyces).
• Mashing long and low (e.g. 2 hours at 145°F)
• Adding glucoamylase enzyme to the fermenter.
• Increasing the sulfate level.

I would also like to add one more thing.
If doing all grain, choose well-modified base malts that tend to have a potential for higher conversion efficiencies. US pale two/six-row malts, Pilsner, Vienna, and red/white wheats mashed longer at low to moderate temperatures (145F-148F) will go a long way toward giving a drier beer. Enzyme additions during the mash and a vigorous yeast will help, as will keeping the gravity of your beer wort at, or near 1.045 or lower. I do this regularly and have had some very clear session beers, one of which measured at 1.004 with a hydrometer. It was a purposely done blonde ale but could've passed as a lager.

If you have an extract kit beer, add enzyme during fermentation and consider changing the yeast if desired.

 

[Steveruch]

I recently bottled an extract, with specialty grains, brown ale fermented with nottingham that went from 1.050 to 1.007. If I'd substituted some sugar for some of the extract I could have gone even lower.

 

[Radicaldata]

Dryness comes from the Yeast Choice, such as SAF 05 or 04, Higher alcohol such as starting with a higher start gravity, like 1065 and the yeast take it down to 1005 that is called attenuation. The other thing that will give you that is lowering your PH. This is popular with IPA's and Front forward Hops. The choice of grain, Rye is dryer than Wheat if the roast is equal.
It looks like you are using kits to start with, I started with two kits and now have my own recipes and have 30 thus far. This is where you can decide if a bitter is a dry you are looking for since you mentioned Amarillo Hops as an example.
Brewing is like cooking, your first or second red sauce or clams might be just okay but after making the recipe a handful of times you find what is preferred. I can tell you that if you stay consistent with say 3-4 recipes and use the same yeast you will find what does what at boiling time.

Hello Bubbles2,
Many thanks for your reply, I will take in what you mentioned.
At present I am not in a position to make my brews from scratch (various reasons) although that may change in the future.

I have found that of many various kit beers ... Morgans, Coopers and others
I fave found that the Coopers Mexican Cerveza with an added teabag of Morgans Amarillo Hops is just right for my taste.
The thing I am looking for is making it a bit drier to which I have now done a batch with an enzyme that is supposed to do it.
I will find out when all is completed.
Upon further reading (here on this site) I think it might not end up with what I thought ... time will tell

Thank you again.

P.S. The name "Bubbles" reminds me of a cute and dipsy girl in the earlier "Absolutely Fabulous" series.

 

[Radicaldata]

• Simple sugar adjuncts.
• Highly attentive yeast (e.g. Saison or other diastaticus Saccharomyces, or Brettanomyces).
• Mashing long and low (e.g. 2 hours at 145°F)
• Adding glucoamylase enzyme to the fermenter.
• Increasing the sulfate level.

Hello RPh Guy,

Many thanks for your reply.
Your info is good to take a note of both for myself and others .

Thanks again.

 

[Radicaldata]

I've brewed 2 Saisons this year using Wyeast 3711 and both have finished at 1.000. Both were mashed at about 150F but I mashed overnight. Then after a few days, I ramp up the temperature with a brew belt and can get it to almost 80F. 3711 is special in that you can ramp the temp without getting off flavors so if you wanted to go that route, make sure the yeast you use is ok with high temps.

Hello myndflyte,

Thank you for your reply.
I am presently in a situation where as I only brew using kit beer ( although I have upgraded to kegging )

If and when I can brew from scratch, I have your information saved for reference.

Thanks again.

 

[Radicaldata]

Gluco300 works well. Made some low carb lagers with it. A 1035 wort finishes at 1000 making a 4.5% beer. Also seems to help clarity.

Hello Beer666,

Thank you for your reply.

I will check that "Gluco 300" out.

 

[Radicaldata]

I would also like to add one more thing.
If doing all grain, choose well-modified base malts that tend to have a potential for higher conversion efficiencies. US pale two/six-row malts, Pilsner, Vienna, and red/white wheats mashed longer at low to moderate temperatures (145F-148F) will go a long way toward giving a drier beer. Enzyme additions during the mash and a vigorous yeast will help, as will keeping the gravity of your beer wort at, or near 1.045 or lower. I do this regularly and have had some very clear session beers, one of which measured at 1.004 with a hydrometer. It was a purposely done blonde ale but could've passed as a lager.

If you have an extract kit beer, add enzyme during fermentation and consider changing the yeast if desired.

Hello Lefou,

I have just put down a kit brew with an enzyme added with the yeast and will know the result in a few weeks.
Changing the yeast from that which comes with the kit beer is another avenue I will try next time around also.

Thank you.

 

[Radicaldata]

I recently bottled an extract, with specialty grains, brown ale fermented with nottingham that went from 1.050 to 1.007. If I'd substituted some sugar for some of the extract I could have gone even lower.

Hello Steveruch,

Thanks for your reply.

I will Look that up.

Many thanks.