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Here are a couple pictures of the malt pipe (grain basket) in the robobrew. I will get measurements of what size I'd need. Basically, I'd want it to fit inside the SsBrewtech 15G Kettle, sit off the bottom, and not interfere with the pickup tube. Ideally it would also fit below the recirculation port, but I could always return thru the lid if needed.
 
I just measured...
I would need a "basket"
-with solid sides
-Jaybird false bottom
-14" high
-With 1" feet (15" total height)
-12" wide
-With a handle I could lift/hoist wet grain

Still reasonable? Curious if it will be reasonable $$$ too. [emoji15]
 
I just measured...
I would need a "basket"
-with solid sides
-Jaybird false bottom
-14" high
-With 1" feet (15" total height)
-12" wide
-With a handle I could lift/hoist wet grain

Still reasonable? Curious if it will be reasonable $$$ too. [emoji15]

Ohh man we have build a boatload of these for guys. Let me put pen to paper tomorrow and figure out what it will cost you. It wont be polished like that and it will have a seam down the side I doubt you want to pay me to erase but that is totally something we do.

I'll be in touch.

Cheers
Jay
 
Ohh man we have build a boatload of these for guys. Let me put pen to paper tomorrow and figure out what it will cost you. It wont be polished like that and it will have a seam down the side I doubt you want to pay me to erase but that is totally something we do.



I'll be in touch.



Cheers

Jay


Awesome. Functional = pretty to me. I won't see the seem when it's inside the kettle anyways!
 
Jay, looking for 2 of these only on a 1.5" TC, instead of a 3". I need a ball lock gas post. Gas post is centered.

I saw your SKU 2999, which has the PRV in addition to a gas post on a 1.5" TC. I don't need the PRV


Here's the 3" cap that Jay made for pressurized transfers from the BME Chronical. I'm not too concerned about having the PRV so this works perfectly and like always looks great! Also using his canning jar adapter on the BME.

 
Jay, looking for 2 of these only on a 1.5" TC, instead of a 3". I need a ball lock gas post. Gas post is centered.

I saw your SKU 2999, which has the PRV in addition to a gas post on a 1.5" TC. I don't need the PRV

I can do that now with the weld fitting, gas post tube and gas in ball lock if you would rather not have the coupling...

Cheers
Jay
 
Sorry about that. Something like this. But perhaps with the "cup" inline direct underneath the bottom of the Blow off cane.
attachment.php
 
Jay, hate to be a pest, but is this possible? What would it cost?

Not being a pest at all. I am working on the connection for the FFL so the air stones are replaceable. I do have some work to do there for the connections side and the wort path but I am totally working on it.

Cheers
Jay
 
So I ordered this.

7055387889_3f2fc9c2ea.jpg


I am thinking to emulate the HopRocket with your parts and help. I was looking at your false bottoms and hop blockers. Could you cut out most of the inner lid shown here and weld in a false bottom screen?

7067667667_b0244f8ff9.jpg


Then I would add a hop blocker to the bottom. Not sure how to secure it though. I would need a 1\2" npt fitting in the lid and one in the bottom. The RIMS function would be a short fold back element with a Tri Clover adapter like this one.

Element1650_TC-1.jpg


So I would also need a 1.5" short TC fitting welded in the center of the bottom. Maybe I could use a nipple going into the tank from the TC fitting to screw something like your wine punch to for the false bottom instead of using a hop blocker.

I am not sure how feasible this idea is or if it would even work very well. The Blichmann Hop Rocket with RIMS is $265.00 and my pot cost me $22.00 so far.

What do you think?



Did you see this Jerry? Works with a 1/2 gallon Ball jar.

Cheers
Jay

3022-Wide-Mouth-Canning-Jar-Hop-Filter #1.jpg
 
Did you see this Jerry? Works with a 1/2 gallon Ball jar.

Cheers
Jay

I am gonna get one one of these for sure, we have plenty of jars. That other idea was gonna get way too expensive.

You gave me an idea too!!:D:D

Could you put the strainer part on one of your airlock lids for me. Basically it would just need a small stand off from the lid. I think that would work great for fermenting veggies.

We just got into fermenting food this year and love it. Something like this would eliminate the jar weights. We actually use smaller jars for weights now which works pretty good but I have been thinking of a better way.
 
I am gonna get one one of these for sure, we have plenty of jars. That other idea was gonna get way too expensive.

You gave me an idea too!!:D:D

Could you put the strainer part on one of your airlock lids for me. Basically it would just need a small stand off from the lid. I think that would work great for fermenting veggies.

We just got into fermenting food this year and love it. Something like this would eliminate the jar weights. We actually use smaller jars for weights now which works pretty good but I have been thinking of a better way.

I am sure we can do something for you buddy!

Cheers
Jay
 
Happy new year Jay! I'm looking for two solutions.
Can you weld a 1/2 npt male nipple into a corney keg lid? Threaded on the top and inside of the lid. I want to use a 1/2" threaded cip ball on a blichmann fermentor.

2 I'm looking for a hop dam that would be similar but larger than the ring that is on the hop blocker. Think pulled open wide on one side. Perforated to allow wort to pass but keep trub from flowing to the pickup tube.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1483475560.158064.jpg
 

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Happy new year Jay! I'm looking for two solutions.
Can you weld a 1/2 npt male nipple into a corney keg lid? Threaded on the top and inside of the lid. I want to use a 1/2" threaded cip ball on a blichmann fermentor.

2 I'm looking for a hop dam that would be similar but larger than the ring that is on the hop blocker. Think pulled open wide on one side. Perforated to allow wort to pass but keep trub from flowing to the pickup tube.View attachment 383031


Yes and Yes..
How big you want that dam? Height? Radius? length? Etc...

I am headed out the door for a few hours but I will shoot you a PM later today, tonight or tomorrow.

Cheers
Jay
 
12" edge to edge. It doesn't need to match the kettle bottom per se. ( I think you could sell this, so you might want to)!

4" tall, a handle would be nice but not necessary. 1/16" +/- holes to allow flow.

I see this as a piece you put in place after you have drained the majority of the wort and want to collect the last precious bits.

Cheers. My cell is 8475070854

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1483510803.390853.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1483510821.189380.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1483510852.586977.jpg
 
I have a bunch of .5" SS tubing if anyone is interested in it. PM me and we can discuss the details. I think it is .065 in thickness. It is the leftovers off spools. Probably have 10-15' on each spool.
 
The above would be nice for transfer into the conical. I have a flat lid and when I use a tri to camlocks, the wort hits the slide of the tri cavity and runs on the underside the lid. Really need something like to above so I can clamp it on the lid, my cam to tri on the top and a tube that directs the wort into the vessel.
 
Is that disc just there as a backing for the gasket on a weldless set up? How long would you need those threads?

Cheers
Jay

The disc is there for stability in a weldless setup on a thermo mash tun. The thread should be 45 mm measured from the disc.

Do you do BSP threads?

Cheers

/Kim
 
Hey Jaybird,

I want to make some adjustments to my kettles. I have 3 weldless thermostats that I want to move to a better position and need to fill in the holes they will leave behind. I'm having issue with finding a 7/8" x 1" bolt to use as a plug. I need three of them. I also need the nuts that fit to them that have the indentation to help seat the rubber washer. If you have the washers as well I'd get them at the same time.

Thanks,

Mickey
 
Does a 1/2" NPT elbow fit inside a 2" triclover Tee? The idea is to basically create a 1/2" NPT port inside the 2" triclover port, and should be testable with all off the shelf parts.

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri_Clover_Tee_Stainless_Steel_2_Inch.html - Tee
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Fitting_Elbow_90_Degree_Half_Inch_Stainless_Steel.html - 1/2" NPT elbow
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-Pipe-Connect-2-Inch-Tri-Clover.html - 2" Triclamp to 1/2" NPT adapter

I tried to do calculations, and it could fit either just right or be just short. There's also different Tee lengths, elbow lengths, NPT pipe lengths, nipples and couplings adjust length, etc. Would any combination of these work off the shelf?
 
Slightly off the main topic, but perhaps related enough... I am curious what it would cost to get my Jaded Hydra IC electroplated in gold.

What do you think?
 
Slightly off the main topic, but perhaps related enough... I am curious what it would cost to get my Jaded Hydra IC electroplated in gold.

What do you think?

I think it is impossible for you to get this done soon enough. Just ship the IC with your credit card taped to it and send us a pic as soon as it gets back.
 
Hey Jay, price check on a garden hose thread and female cam-lock as one piece?

I think most people have male cam-locks on their pump or kettle outlets, would be handy to direct attach a garden hose for discharge and cleaning.
 
Does a 1/2" NPT elbow fit inside a 2" triclover Tee? The idea is to basically create a 1/2" NPT port inside the 2" triclover port, and should be testable with all off the shelf parts.

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri_Clover_Tee_Stainless_Steel_2_Inch.html - Tee
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Fitting_Elbow_90_Degree_Half_Inch_Stainless_Steel.html - 1/2" NPT elbow
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-Pipe-Connect-2-Inch-Tri-Clover.html - 2" Triclamp to 1/2" NPT adapter

I tried to do calculations, and it could fit either just right or be just short. There's also different Tee lengths, elbow lengths, NPT pipe lengths, nipples and couplings adjust length, etc. Would any combination of these work off the shelf?

Can you do a easy "HAND CAD" drawing and send it to me. Having a hard time seeing your vision.
[email protected]

Cheers
Jay
 
Is there a way you could make a short adapter to go from 1" NPS to 1.5" TC that will fit a heating element through it? I have nuts welded to my kettle but I want to convert to TC so I can use ripple elements. The adapters I bought have too small of and ID to fit an element through.
 
Is there a way you could make a short adapter to go from 1" NPS to 1.5" TC that will fit a heating element through it? I have nuts welded to my kettle but I want to convert to TC so I can use ripple elements. The adapters I bought have too small of and ID to fit an element through.

I have those. I will post up a picture in just a bit.

Jay
 
Is there a way you could make a short adapter to go from 1" NPS to 1.5" TC that will fit a heating element through it? I have nuts welded to my kettle but I want to convert to TC so I can use ripple elements. The adapters I bought have too small of and ID to fit an element through.

Do you mean like this? I have about 12 of them in 1.5" TC and about 12 of them in 2" TC

PM me if you want 1 I can hook you up.

Cheers
Jay

ElementTCadapter.jpg
 
No, I have the element end covered, I am trying to convert the kettle side. I have 1" NPS nuts welded to my HLT, I need a 1" NPT male to 1.5" TC fitting that the element can fit through to convert it to TC. I have some of the existing adapters but the ID is really small for some reason and the element won't fit through them.

Something like the link below but with a 1.5" TC on the end instead of a canning jar lid.
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Wide-Mouth-Canning-Jar-Lid-with-1-Inch-Nipple.html
If you could check that an element would fit through it first that could save some time. It may not even fit through there.

I was using the HWD straight elements with homemade backshells. The welded on nuts are too close to the bottom to use the ripple elements, hence the desire to switch. Thanks for your help.
 

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