SPLASTiK
Well-Known Member
Edit: Never mind found a 50% off promo code for Joann's:
kccf129
kccf129
I wonder if you could use this etching cream to make a dot (or maybe a x) in the bottom of the glass. It would act like the etching in the Sam Adams perfect pint glass.
I wonder if you could use this etching cream to make a dot (or maybe a x) in the bottom of the glass. It would act like the etching in the Sam Adams perfect pint glass.
Keith - when you say you're sandwiching the stencil/transparency between two pieces of acrylic, are you leaving the rear transparent? Only one side of the stencil should be exposed to light - even if you're using a piece of black velvet as Huey's using, that's still going to leak light to the rear of the stencil, causing the whole thing to set.
That's definitely your problem then. If you hold that acrylic up to the light, I bet you can still see through it, even just a tiny bit. Added to the fact that black cloth has thousands of tiny holes in it from the weaving, it's letting enough light through to set the stencil material from both sides.Wow. Thanks guys.
Yeah.... the back acrylic is still covered in the paper that protects it in manufacture, and I also put a piece of black cloth under the Stencil Pro. And yes, I'm using the Hi Res stuff.
Looks like to get dishwasher safe you have to let the paint dry for 24 hours, then bake at 325F for 40 minutes. Seems easy enough
Wow. Thanks guys.
Yeah.... the back acrylic is still covered in the paper that protects it in manufacture, and I also put a piece of black cloth under the Stencil Pro. And yes, I'm using the Hi Res stuff.
A couple things I'm going to try today.... I'll use a glass/hard-backed frame this time... see if light was leaking. And I'll move the "developing" out of the kitchen. It may be too brite in there.
Thanks guys. Good tips, all. Maybe a combonation of all this will get 'er done. Hopefully, I'll be posting picture of the glasses soon!
One thing I'd like to bring to the table here, I custom engrave glassware for people and sell it at conventions and the like. I've tried the armour-etch and other etching creams and I'm not that happy with the long term results. When you acid-etch glasses the etched area tends to wear down after a year or so of use and washing. Some people don't notice it, or think that it's not a big deal after that much time, but I disagreed so I set out to find what else I could do. After some experimentation I've finally settled on using a Dremel tool with diamond tip and it turns out great. You can get really detailed work and it lasts a lot longer. It does, however, take more time. I usually spend 10-25 minutes on a single glass depending on the amount of detail. Basic images (like the Hyrule crest from Zelda) takes like 10 minutes at most, while really detailed images (like the Alliance symbol from WoW) take around 20-25. And yeah, I'm a bit of a geek.
Also, I used the ArmourEtch, and they recommended a 5 minute application; this was not long enough IMO. the image was light.
FYI, if you have a Staples near you, and don't want to buy a pack of 100 transparencies for $30, just take a copy of the image to their copy center, they will copy it onto a transparency for a little under $1 apiece.
Also, I used the ArmourEtch, and they recommended a 5 minute application; this was not long enough IMO. the image was light.
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