Thought some of you guys might find this of interest:
http://funkfactorybrewing.blogspot.com/2012/01/steam-cleaning-barrel-part-3.html
http://funkfactorybrewing.blogspot.com/2012/01/steam-cleaning-barrel-part-3.html
DIY Barrel Steamer
- Thread starter levifunk
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ne0t0ky0
Well-Known Member
Nice, just ran across this. Do you have a part list? Interested in your pressure cooker, how big, any particular model? or do you think any would work (wondering about the connections).
I'm going to be building one of these very soon for a barrel project with my HBG. I'll post pics and parts list ASAP. I'm a Chemical Engineer, so I should be ok at working out the kinks and figuring it out from Levi's barrel steaming video.
ne0t0ky0
Well-Known Member
I just completed my build.
This pressure cooker, mostly for volume and I didn't have a smaller/cheaper one on hand.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYCFU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I didn't install the pressure gauge that came with it instead I used an existing keg pressure monitor that I picked up at LHBS, which uses a gas-out quick disconnect.
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/bleeder-valve.html
I re-used the keg post setup I have from this build:
http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2012/11/recirculating-draft-line-cleaning-build.html
Picked up a couple SS washers, 9/16" ID: 17/16" OD. Used an oring that goes around a keg post, and then a small 1/4" FPT coupler.
The put the washer on the bottom of the keg-post with threads, then the oring, then put that through the hole in the cooker lid. On the underside, I attach the coupler hand-tight. The washer on the outside pushes the oring for a tight seal.
Then I attach the keg pressure guage to the post in the lid and we're all good.
Final attachment looks like this.
I used 3/8" ID silicon hose, you have to push it over the check-valve threads, but it fits, then a clamp.
For the want, I picked up a 3/8" barb to 1/2" FTP, which threads onto a 1/2" PVC threaded elbow. Then a simple 2' x .5" PVC pipe, and a cap on the end. I drilled myriad holes near the bottom foot.
After attaching it all, built pressure up to about 12 psi, and then opened the valve. Steam flew out and I got a temp reading. During the out-flow of steam, pressure was around 5psi.
I'll likely replace the pvc with real pipe since post-test-run the pvc was hot enough to bend. I want to find easier pipe to work with than the normal gas pipes; I don't have the equipment to drill holes in those pipes.
Maybe some simple copper or conduit. Copper is pricey though.
This pressure cooker, mostly for volume and I didn't have a smaller/cheaper one on hand.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYCFU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I didn't install the pressure gauge that came with it instead I used an existing keg pressure monitor that I picked up at LHBS, which uses a gas-out quick disconnect.
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/bleeder-valve.html
I re-used the keg post setup I have from this build:
http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2012/11/recirculating-draft-line-cleaning-build.html
Picked up a couple SS washers, 9/16" ID: 17/16" OD. Used an oring that goes around a keg post, and then a small 1/4" FPT coupler.
The put the washer on the bottom of the keg-post with threads, then the oring, then put that through the hole in the cooker lid. On the underside, I attach the coupler hand-tight. The washer on the outside pushes the oring for a tight seal.
Then I attach the keg pressure guage to the post in the lid and we're all good.
Final attachment looks like this.
I used 3/8" ID silicon hose, you have to push it over the check-valve threads, but it fits, then a clamp.
For the want, I picked up a 3/8" barb to 1/2" FTP, which threads onto a 1/2" PVC threaded elbow. Then a simple 2' x .5" PVC pipe, and a cap on the end. I drilled myriad holes near the bottom foot.
After attaching it all, built pressure up to about 12 psi, and then opened the valve. Steam flew out and I got a temp reading. During the out-flow of steam, pressure was around 5psi.
I'll likely replace the pvc with real pipe since post-test-run the pvc was hot enough to bend. I want to find easier pipe to work with than the normal gas pipes; I don't have the equipment to drill holes in those pipes.
Maybe some simple copper or conduit. Copper is pricey though.
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ne0t0ky0
Well-Known Member
I switched to copper pipe. The PVC sorta melted in a short period of time.
I picked up a 2' section of 1/2" pipe.
An end-cap, street-elbow to 1/2" in, and a 1/2" MPT to 1/2" barb.
Used a 5/64" drill bit to punch some holes in the bottle 1' of the rod, mainly because the 11G barrel I have isn't that deep.
And I easily hit 210F at the top opening of the barrel, meaning to me, at least, that I was getting far above 212F steam-temp.
I ran the steam for about 20 minutes, then rinsed with boiling water once more. Another round of stuff came out, so I was really happy I did this.
I picked up a 2' section of 1/2" pipe.
An end-cap, street-elbow to 1/2" in, and a 1/2" MPT to 1/2" barb.
Used a 5/64" drill bit to punch some holes in the bottle 1' of the rod, mainly because the 11G barrel I have isn't that deep.
And I easily hit 210F at the top opening of the barrel, meaning to me, at least, that I was getting far above 212F steam-temp.
I ran the steam for about 20 minutes, then rinsed with boiling water once more. Another round of stuff came out, so I was really happy I did this.
Here's what I've got so far. I built mine with some SS parts I had lying around the shop. https://www.dropbox.com/s/380tos2lsx8sgrs/20140131_191650.jpg
And here it is in action. https://www.dropbox.com/s/zm71iqd0gle6hwk/20140131_200918.jpg
She held steady at 14 psi for 10+ minutes, so I figure it should do the trick once I get around to building a steam wand outta copper this weekend.
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