DIY Air Distributor w/ individual regulators

[weathejx]

My keezer will hold 3 kegs in a pinch, so I needed a distributor. I also force carb so I needed to be able to set pressures for each keg. Supplies from Harbor Freight and Home Depot

Item List (from regulator to keg):

3/8 to 1/4 reducer - $1.79 - HF#93605
3 Way Quick Connect (QC) Splitter - $9.99 - HF#93104
\/------One For Each Keg------\/
Industrial Male QC w/ 1/4 Female NPT - ~$2.00 - HF
160psi Regulator with gauge - $6.99 - HF#36797
Watts A-192 3/8 Barb to 1/4 Female NPT - $2.23 - Home Depot
--------------------------------

So it's $11.78 for the distributor and $11.22 per keg plus whatever hose you need to attach to the kegs (Watts 10' Braided 3/8ID Hose - $5.64 - Home Depot #SBVIE10).

My particular project will run me $45.44 plus the hose, so right around $50 bucks. Not bad considering most additional regulators are about $50 bucks from most of the HBS'

Pictures and results to follow.

John

 

[AnOldUR]

Not familiar with that style of regulator, but since you need to dial your pressure in the 8 to 12 psi area depending on style it will be tough to be accurate with a regulator made for a shop compressor.

 

[weathejx]

Maybe. It's a simple dial regulator marked in 5psi increments, shouldn't be that hard to set it at 10psi.

 

[smellysell]

:subscribed:

 

[AnOldUR]

Not bad considering most additional regulators are about $50 bucks from most of the HBS

Well, with an accuracy that is probably +/- 2 psi at best, why even bother to have the individual regulators. You wouldn't be any better off than setting your main regulator to 10 lbs. You do know that you'll need a primary CO2 regulator rated for something like 2000 psi?

My thought would be that this is one of those "you get what you pay for" situations.

 

[weathejx]

Like i said, I force carb, so I need to be able to set individual kegs at higher pressures.

e.g.

Primary Regulator on the tank set at 35
One force carbing keg set at 35
Two on tap kegs set at 10

 

[AnOldUR]

Primary Regulator on the tank set at 35
One force carbing keg set at 35
Two on tap kegs set at 10

Sorry I was only thinking serving. I normally use set and forget.


My basement fridge has a 4 way distributor with shut-off valves. If I need to get one ready quick, I just shut off the other three and jack up the pressure. The three will hold pressure fine for the couple of days it takes to rush the one, even if you draw a few pints off.

And don't forget check valves.

 

[weathejx]

no worries. i force carb because i cant wait.

i am missing check valves, but until i find some im willing to risk back flow.

 

[Homercidal]

I should really get those too. I also like to be able to force carb or serve soda and have been putting off getting a second reg due to price (better spent on other brewing equipment).

 

[weathejx]

pictures. more parts should get here in the next day or so. initial tests went well.

Keg regulators

Distributor

Assembled

Full View

Larger images on my flickr feed.

Will post updates after I hook this bad boy up to some kegs.

 

[mattd2]

Maybe. It's a simple dial regulator marked in 5psi increments, shouldn't be that hard to set it at 10psi.

Could you swap out the 0-160 gauges for some 0-30 for more accurate. Yes it will add a few more $ each but it'll be worth it.

 

[JuanMoore]

I started out with the exact same set-up except I used the rectangular 4-way splitter instead of the round 3-way. I found out the hard way that those type of QD's leak if they are pushed sideways even a tiny bit, which happened easily in my very cramped keezer. It sucks to lose a full tank of co2 overnight, so I'd be very careful about how things get stuffed into your kegerator/keezer.

In my experience those regulators aren't very accurate at all, even with lower psi gauges. The main problem is that they tend to creep quite a bit, or sometimes stick at lower pressures, so make sure you keep checking them often.

I don't mean to rain on your parade, and it will certainly do the job for a lot less money than other sytems, but having been there and done that I thought you should know what to look out for. In the long run the hassles weren't really worth the savings for me and I bought different QD's and regs, but YMMV.

 

[lustreking]

In my experience those regulators aren't very accurate at all, even with lower psi gauges. The main problem is that they tend to creep quite a bit, or sometimes stick at lower pressures, so make sure you keep checking them often.

The regulators pictured aren't real regulators, they're just valves with a gauge on it. I guess they work for painting, where there's constant flow, but if there isn't the pressure will continue to rise.

Here's a fairly inexpensive diaphragm regulator that might work, but it doesn't have npt in/outs, and again it has a 160 psi gauge that probably should be replaced.

http://www.harborfreight.com/160-psi-hvlp-air-regulator-90590.html

 

[AnOldUR]

I don't mean to rain on your parade, and it will certainly do the job for a lot less money than other sytems . . .

How many refills before it's no longer less money? I have that style QD's in my shop and wouldn't even consider using them for beer lines. But as said, YMMV. Good luck, but please report back in a couple of months with the good or bad of this set-up.

 

[wyzazz]

I use this type of QD on my rig for the gas side and haven't had an issue, of course I didn't use the el-cheapo Harbor Freight ones that came with my manifold, I went to Lowes and picked up some new ones, my 20LB tank hasn't lost any gas yet.

 

[NoisufnoC]

interesting. subscribed.

 

[cdubbaya]

I'm interested in this as well, as I have 3 kegs in a fridge right now and I need a distributor for the same reasons OP stated.

I also have a 20# tank in there, so I can't afford to refill that thing too often if any leaks occur.

Interested to see how it works out!

 

[JuanMoore]

How many refills before it's no longer less money?

Good point. It only took losing one 20# tank of co2 to inspire me to scrape up the cash for some higher quality components.

I will say that the $2 aluminum manifolds from harbor freight are a great buy. I use them in my keezer, and have installed them on a friends set-up too.

 

[mmurray]

no worries. i force carb because i cant wait.

i am missing check valves, but until i find some im willing to risk back flow.

Here is some cheap insurance...

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/ball-check-valve.html

 

[weathejx]

the rest of the parts showed up today. I'll have two kegs on the regulators tonight and will do further testing.

I tested the QD's and moved them all around with no noticeable leaks. It's important to realize there are 2 different types of air tool QDs, Industrial and Automotive and they dont play well together. I tired a Industrial F with an Automotive M and the connection was very fragile and would leak at the slightest touch. Once I paired them up correctly, no leaks.

In the proposed setup, the weak point in my mind is the cheapo regulators. Not sure if they're up to snuff, but for 7 bucks I was willing to try.

Does anyone know where I can get check valves that have standard MPT's on both ends? That flare end is annoying.

j.

 

[smellysell]

Good point. It only took losing one 20# tank of co2 to inspire me to scrape up the cash for some higher quality components.

I will say that the $2 aluminum manifolds from harbor freight are a great buy. I use them in my keezer, and have installed them on a friends set-up too.

Do you have a link or item # for these?

 

[AnOldUR]

The regulators pictured aren't real regulators, they're just valves with a gauge on it. I guess they work for painting, where there's constant flow, but if there isn't the pressure will continue to rise.

It's funny how this just gets ignored. I think the functionality is found in the description. The OP bought an Air FLOW Regulator, not an Air Regulator. As said, nothing more than a valve with a gauge on it and that no matter how low you turn it, you'll eventually end up with whatever pressure is set on you main gauge.








800lb gorilla

 

[HumanGarbage]

...i am missing check valves, but until i find some im willing to risk back flow.

So am I. Take it from me that cleaning your regulator gets annoying after the first time.

Another aspect to consider is backflow to the other kegs. Now that REALLY sucks. I hooked up a keg of smoked stout when I had an IPA, BM's Centennial Blonde, and a Pale Ale. The stout had carbed up in the keg and was higher than my serving pressure... I basically ruined three kegs when the stout backflowed into the others. The IPA was still OK-ish due to the hops. Looked like a Cascadian in the glass lol.

KegCowboy has a fairly cheap 4 way manifold with check valves. I'm planning to get one very soon to prevent a repeat...

 

[JuanMoore]

Do you have a link or item # for these?

Here's a link.

There's also a fourth hole in the center of the underside that isn't shown in the pic. I use two of them connected with a close nipple, which gives me one inlet, and five outlets. I have a 4 keg keezer, and use the 5th outlet for purging, forced transfers, etc.

 

[weathejx]

It's funny how this just gets ignored. I think the functionality is found in the description. The OP bought an Air FLOW Regulator, not an Air Regulator. As said, nothing more than a valve with a gauge on it and that no matter how low you turn it, you'll eventually end up with whatever pressure is set on you main gauge.
800lb gorilla

Not ignored, just unknown. I see something that says "Air Regulator" I assume it regulates the air.

Would this piece regulate pressure and not just the flow?

Helping getting rid of the 800lb gorilla rather than just pointing at it would be appreciated.

j.

 

[smellysell]

Here's a link.

There's also a fourth hole in the center of the underside that isn't shown in the pic. I use two of them connected with a close nipple, which gives me one inlet, and five outlets. I have a 4 keg keezer, and use the 5th outlet for purging, forced transfers, etc.

In store item only. Lame

 

[JuanMoore]

I tested the QD's and moved them all around with no noticeable leaks. It's important to realize there are 2 different types of air tool QDs, Industrial and Automotive and they dont play well together. I tired a Industrial F with an Automotive M and the connection was very fragile and would leak at the slightest touch. Once I paired them up correctly, no leaks.

j.

I use both types in my shop and know the difference. All I know is that none of the F types ones I was using passed the soapy water test when the female end was pushed sideways. Maybe yours are better quality, but I'd still suggest a thorough soapy water test if you haven't already done one.

 

[AnOldUR]

Would this piece regulate pressure and not just the flow?

Sure would. Not with the precision that I would consider acceptable, but at least it should prevent the over pressure issue associated with bleeding.

Not ignored, just unknown.

That's the same regulator linked by lustreking in the post that I quoted above.
(And it was ignored. )

 

[JuanMoore]

Not ignored, just unknown. I see something that says "Air Regulator" I assume it regulates the air.

Would this piece regulate pressure and not just the flow?

Helping getting rid of the 800lb gorilla rather than just pointing at it would be appreciated.

j.

Now that I look closer, the one you just linked (also linked earlier in this thread) is the one I was using, not the one you initially posted.

Short answer is yes it will regulate pressure, but as I said before it won't be very accurate and will have a tendancy to creep or to stick at lower pressures. I'm not very picky about "proper" carb levels for my beers so the accuracy wasn't an issue for me, but having to check and adjust the pressure every day or two got old real quick.

 

[weathejx]

Sure would. Not with the precision that I would consider acceptable, but at least it should prevent the over pressure issue associated with bleeding.


That's the same regulator linked by lustreking in the post that I quoted above.
(And it was ignored. )

ehhhhhh. maybe i did ignore that. maybe i didnt know the difference between the two. either way, i guess ill swing by HF on the way home today and pick up some of those. im not expecting the precision of a $50-70 regulator from a $10 one.

I did go and pick up some check valves, washers and barbed swivel nuts from Northern Brewer that will replace the barbs I have. At $10 it's hard to say no.

j.

 

[AnOldUR]

im not expecting the precision of a $50-70 regulator from a $10 one. . . At $10 it's hard to say no.

Yeah, but those nickles and dimes add up when you have to replace stuff.

For the future, keep your eyes open. I bought this three regulator Taprite set with all the splitter and check-valves for $75 from someone here on HBT.

 

[weathejx]

I use both types in my shop and know the difference. All I know is that none of the F types ones I was using passed the soapy water test when the female end was pushed sideways. Maybe yours are better quality, but I'd still suggest a thorough soapy water test if you haven't already done one.

Soooooooo, I got home all pumped to prove you guys wrong and put this thing together and have it be awesome. Unfortunately, you guys get to say 'I told you so' because those stupid QD's were loose like my high school girl friend and leaked all over the place.

I did hook up one of the actual regulators that lustreking suggested. it seemed to work fine. so tomorrow ill be grabbing one of those manifolds (which are now 1.99, saw them earlier) and attaching the regulators to that, and the manifold to the tank with some barbs and tube I have laying around.

Live and learn, right?

 

[JuanMoore]

Soooooooo, I got home all pumped to prove you guys wrong and put this thing together and have it be awesome. Unfortunately, you guys get to say 'I told you so' because those stupid QD's were loose like my high school girl friend and leaked all over the place.

I did hook up one of the actual regulators that lustreking suggested. it seemed to work fine. so tomorrow ill be grabbing one of those manifolds (which are now 1.99, saw them earlier) and attaching the regulators to that, and the manifold to the tank with some barbs and tube I have laying around.

Live and learn, right?

I don't think anyone wanted to say "I told you so", we were just pointing out some potential issues to look out for. One of the best things about these forums is that we can all use our past blunders and bad purchases to help each other out. Hope the new set-up works awesome for you.

One last thing to look out for..... on one of the $2 manifolds I bought, the threaded plug leaked. It sounds like you'll be using all 4 ports (1 in and 3 out) so it shouldn't be an issue, but if not make sure to do the soapy water test on the plug.

 

[AnOldUR]

. . . so tomorrow ill be grabbing one of those manifolds (which are now 1.99, saw them earlier) and attaching the regulators to that . . .

Here's another a heads up.

The threaded adapters in your new regulator have 1/4 NPS thread and the manifolds have 1/4 NPT. As you probably know, one is a straight thread and the other is tapered. It's not a good idea to join these two. You might get away with it, but it's just not right.

The thread in the regulator body is listed as being a 1/8-14M. I don't know what that is since the standard for an 1/8" pipe is 27 tpi. Good luck finding something to thread directly in. (Although it may be a mis-print or something I'm not aware of.)

It looks like the holes in the manifolds are too close together for you regulators. You may consider chaining a couple together with an adapter and plugging the holes you don't need.

Personally, I've never seen a need for QD's at the tank. You can disconnect your gas lines at the kegs and when filling the tank you remove the whole assembly. What I use coming from the out side of the regulator is a barbed shut-off valve with a check valve built in.

 

[weathejx]

Thanks for all the info. We'll see how it all turns out. If the current plan doesn't pan out I'll have to sort out something else.

I'll report back tonight with more info.