Reducing IPA FG

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WildHopHunter

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Hi everyone - I'm getting ready to brew an Imperial IPA. I would like this beer to have a dry finish. I have set up my recipe to have an OG of 1.085. When I put the recipe into the Brewers Friend calculator it comes back with an FG of 1.020. I would like to get this beer down to the 1.012 - 1.014 range. I am planning on mashing at 152F, I have tried to change the temp down to 148 for a more ferment able wort but this doesn't change the FG in the calculator. Are there any other techniques I can use to bring down the FG? The recipe is as follows:

13 lbs. Pale 2 row
.75 lbs crystal 40
.75 lbs corn sugar
.50 lbs carapils

2oz chinook - 60 min
1oz cascade - 25 min
.5 oz citra - 15 min
.5 oz cascade - 10 min
.5 oz centennial - 1 min
1.5 oz centennial / .5 citra - dry hop 10 days

WLP 001 California yeast

Thanks.
 
A lot of calculators don't seem to care if you change the mash temp. So, I would definitely mash closer to 148. I would also consider doing a 90 minute mash since your using such a low temp. (Can't hurt). WLP001's high range for attenuating is 80%, so maybe getting down that low might not happen. But I can see you realistically getting in the 1.016-1.018 range. With that much of a drop, the beer should have a 'dry' mouth feel anyway. You could always add more sugar to replace the 2-row, but then you run the risk of too much alcohol burn IMHO. So, I would just go for the lower mash temp, make a proper starter for the yeast, and ignore the "guestimate" from the calculator.
 
Lower mash PH helps make a more fermentable wort. Making a starter and getting the wort well oxygenated will help the yeast attain higher attenuation. Also, sulfate is supposed to lend a dryer perception of the beer.
 
Hi,
This is Larry from Brewer's Friend.

Our recipe editor allows a simple way of controlling FG. Under the yeast section check the 'custom attenuation' box. Then enter your expected attenuation. Hope this helps and happy brewing!
 
agree with the mash low 148 for 90 min. add more sugar but do it at the end of fermentation that way the yeast doesn't waste all its energy on the simple stuff upfront. oxygenate for 90 secs and again in 12 hours if needed. i have also had luck with wlp090 getting down to 1.010 without me really trying...or wanting it to. can probably kill the carapils. also i would up the hops in all the spots. depending on AA it looks like a 60ish ibu 8.5-10% dipa which is not going to be enough. at minimum double that bitter charge. for me i would take those late additions from .5oz to 1-2oz and thow them in at flameout/whirlpool..and maybe a 2 stage dry hop with that amount or double it for a single dry hop with lower contact time so it doesnt get grassy with that much vegetal matter. just some suggestions.
 

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