DIPA Low IBU's

[Mike COusineau]

I am looking for some recommendations on brewing an DIPA that is not super bitter (trying to stay below 35 IBU's) but a ton of flavor in the backend, preferably Pineapple. Yes I know I am going to get smashed but I love the whole hoppiness and aroma of some of my buddies beer but dont prefer the bitterness most of these come with.Any help would be awesome guys!!!

 

[Dgallo]

13 lb - 2 row
2 lb - flaked or malted wheat
0.5lb- honey malt
Mash 152-154

Hops:
Denali
Azzaca
Citra

Yeast:
Hornindal Kviek - Omega 091
Use 1/2 the pack and ferment in the 90s

Hop schedule
1 oz Denali @ 10 mins
1 oz Azacca @ 5 mins

Whirlpool 180*f
2oz Denali
1oz Azacca
1oz citra

Dryhop
3 oz Denali
2oz citra
1 oz Azacca

 

[Mike COusineau]

13 lb - 2 row
2 lb - flaked or malted wheat
0.5lb- honey malt
Mash 152-154

Hops:
Denali
Azzaca
Citra

Yeast:
Hornindal Kviek - Omega 091
Use 1/2 the pack and ferment in the 90s

Hop schedule
1 oz Denali @ 10 mins
1 oz Azacca @ 5 mins

Whirlpool 180*f
2oz Denali
1oz Azacca
1oz citra

Dryhop
3 oz Denali
2oz citra
1 oz Azacca

That's one hell of a hope schedule. I'm digging it. Only side note is I have no way of keeping ferment temps to 90 degrees. Is it possible to recommend a different yeast?

 

[Dgallo]

That's one hell of a hope schedule. I'm digging it. Only side note is I have no way of keeping ferment temps to 90 degrees. Is it possible to recommend a different yeast?

That the only one tht actually produces pineapple esters. Do you have a insulated sleeping bag. You can pitch at 100 then wrap it your FV in a sleeping bag. Kviek fermenta within like 2/3 days so it should maintain that temp for the first day where most of your esters are produced.

If no. Go with your favorite ale yeast

 

[Mike COusineau]

That the only one tht actually produces pineapple esters. Do you have a insulated sleeping bag. You can pitch at 100 then wrap it your FV in a sleeping bag. Kviek fermenta within like 2/3 days so it should maintain that temp for the first day where most of your esters are produced.

If no. Go with your favorite ale yeast

Cool, thanks man

 

[IslandLizard]

That's one hell of a hope schedule. I'm digging it. Only side note is I have no way of keeping ferment temps to 90 degrees. Is it possible to recommend a different yeast?

Keep it in a small area, a spare closet, or an old, spare, or non-working refrigerator, with a space heater inside. Just take appropriate actions to not burn your house down. I'm serious, especially when it comes to space heaters, really, there are not enough warning labels on them already.

Most DIPAs have the alcohol, often plenty (or in your case, too much) bitterness, but not enough hops.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I use the Lasko MyHeat 200 watt space heater in my chest freezer/ferm chamber in my garage during cold months. Low wattage and has an overheat shutoff. And is really inexpensive. Puts out plenty of heat to keep me where I want even in the dead of winter. Although I haven't tried to ferment a kveik in there and keep it at 90-100. I do my kveiks during summer when it's naturally that hot in my garage.

OP, I make a lot of IPAs that are low on IBUs and big on hop flavor because my wife hates bitter beer. Just keep your boil additions to a minimum or don't do any at all and do a big whirlpool and dry hop. You can either whirlpool at flameout or drop the wort temp lower to pull few IBUs out. The recipe softwares will try to calculate it for you but trial and error will dial in exactly what's ideal for your palate.

More than anything if you want the massive hop flavor you have to limit your beer's oxygen exposure at all times once fermentation slows down.

 

[downzero]

It sounds like you need to check out the New England IPA thread. It's almost 300 pages long at this point. Minimize 60 minute additions just to keep the foam away, then all whirlpool/steeping, chill it, and ferment it like any other ale.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

13 lb - 2 row
2 lb - flaked or malted wheat
0.5lb- honey malt
Mash 152-154

Hops:
Denali
Azzaca
Citra

Yeast:
Hornindal Kviek - Omega 091
Use 1/2 the pack and ferment in the 90s

Hop schedule
1 oz Denali @ 10 mins
1 oz Azacca @ 5 mins

Whirlpool 180*f
2oz Denali
1oz Azacca
1oz citra

Dryhop
3 oz Denali
2oz citra
1 oz Azacca

This looks great! One observation Ive noticed is that for 5 gallons of finished beer, the total hop volume is about 10-12Ounces total with common to do 6/6oz for whirlpool and dry hop. Pretty common or is my observation off base? Also - @Dgallo, you do all 6oz of those denali/citra/azacca dry hops all at once after soft crashing after fermentation complete or do you stagger then into two doses of dry hops?

 

[Dgallo]

This looks great! One observation Ive noticed is that for 5 gallons of finished beer, the total hop volume is about 10-12Ounces total with common to do 6/6oz for whirlpool and dry hop. Pretty common or is my observation off base? Also - @Dgallo, you do all 6oz of those denali/citra/azacca dry hops all at once after soft crashing after fermentation complete or do you stagger then into two doses of dry hops?

There is 12 oz in that recipe. 2 are in boil. Since it’s a double you do need some ibus to cut the sweetness a touch so it’s not cloying and it will help round out the higher abv.

I do typically soft crash but Hornindal yeast flocs so extremely well on its own, it’s not necessary. Also the dryhop can be split into two additions, which is typical for today’s standard or added as one addition. You’ll most likely get the best extraction with a ddh

 

[IslandLizard]

Also the dryhop can be split into two additions, which is typical for today’s standard or added as one addition. You’ll most likely get the best extraction with a ddh

And don't forget...
To keep the clean, fresh hoppiness, limit oxidation as much as you can by preventing O2 ingress and exposure once fermentation starts. Pay special attention to it during dry hopping, cold crashing, and transferring to a keg or when bottling. It really helps having CO2 available to flush fermenter headspaces, and a must need to liquid-purge kegs, and so.

 

[Dgallo]

And don't forget...
To keep the clean, fresh hoppiness, limit oxidation as much as you can by preventing O2 ingress and exposure once fermentation starts. Pay special attention to it during dry hopping, cold crashing, and transferring to a keg or when bottling. It really helps having CO2 available to flush fermenter headspaces, and a must need to liquid-purge kegs, and so.

+1 to this. This is the most important part of brewing a hoppy beer, without good anti-oxygen processes, the hops won’t be bright

 

[IslandLizard]

Just to give you a perspective on bittering (IBUs) from various hop additions, especially whirlpool hops.
Note: these results are estimated by Beersmith 3 and seem to confer with a different, online, post boil IBU calculator.

Key is, you get quite a bit of IBUs from whirlpooling large(r) amounts of hops typically for IPAs and NEIPAs.

I posted these findings in another thread 2 months ago:

For my NEIPAs (5.5 gallon batch) I use 7 or 8 grams of Warrior at 60' giving ~15 IBU.

Then 4-6 oz of a mix of "IPA hops" in a reduced temp whirlpool:

• Half at 170F for 10'
• The other half at 150F for 30'
• Then chilling down to ferm temps

According to BeerSmith 3 I only gain 9.9 IBU from 90 grams (~3 oz) of 15.5 %AA of hops (average %AA of the hop mix) at 170F for 10'. And 8.4 IBU from the exact same amount of hop mix at 150F for 30'.

Total IBU: 15.3 (60' boil) + 9.9 (170°) + 8.4 (150°) = 33.6 ​

That resulting beer tastes a bit more bitter than 34 IBU, maybe 40 (45?), especially noticeable toward the end of the keg when the original thick milkshake has been reduced to a much thinner haze. So...

The hops are pellets and bagged (I use a plate chiller) and massaged or drained around every 5 minutes to refresh the wort inside the bags for better extraction.

I sometimes feel I can omit the Warrior altogether. Or perhaps substitute the Warrior with a small charge of a similar mix of IPA hops at 5' (before flameout) or increase the 170' hops charge for extra bitterness and flavor. Many possibilities.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

There's definitely a disconnect between calculated IBUs and 'perceived bitterness'. Or, how the beer actually tastes. It can be impacted by water chemistry, grist, hop quality, ph, etc, etc. The recipe softwares are great and fun but ultimately you just have to brew it on your system repeatedly to dial it in.

 

[couchsending]

You don’t need Kviek yeast to produce a very pineapple forward beer.

El dorado
Azacca
Denali
Vic Secret
Bru-1

Are all very pineapple forward hops. El Dorado in WP and some blend of Azacca, mosaic, el Dorado in the dry hop will be incredibly pineapple forward.