Make sure you report how the SS mash tun is, I have one in a box waiting to be cleaned and I need some inspiration!
As for the Robobrew, it's definitely a love-hate relationship. I had to tighten the pins by hand (pliers) to keep them from moving on the lower tube, that seemed to help out a lot. I still have no idea what that center pipe even does. It has that metal cap with a funnel on one end and a set-in on the other and then the rubber nub sits in it (I think). What the heck is the point?! I still don't even know if I'm putting it on correctly, let alone the purpose. The manual is terrible, at best, for showing you what it is or does. So weird. Things I've learned though:
-If the pump clogs, you have to take the pump apart to clean it out, or it'll clog right back up super easy and keep clogging.
-The crush on your grain has to be course, or the recirculation doesn't work. Rice hulls work too (someone said that, good suggestion), but a course crush will improve your recirculation/lautering as well and ease the very slow dip that actually makes it through the grain bed.
-For the "U" recirculation pipe overflow turning problem on the cam lock 'U' piping: turn the pump off, open the pump pipe valve wide open and allow the tubing to drain (count to 5). The level of the liquid in the pump piping will become level with the liquid in the Robobrew, and you can "unlatch" the camlock and move whatever you have to move.
-Cleaning the screens is easy and quick using a garden hose or even just the sprayer on the kitchen faucet spraying in the opposite direction that the grain wanted to go. Remember, mashing doesn't have to be sterile. You're going to boil everything after anyways, so if a single speck of grain or hull is left on the screen, nobody will notice. Good luck, brew on.