Diameter of RIMS tube?

[AnOldUR]

Had a 12" long piece of 1 5/8" OD x 1 1/8" ID x 1/4" wall stainless tube in the shop. Also had a 3500 watt 240 volt fold back element from an old project. So, I thought why not see if it'll make a RIMS tube. I had a bunch of used CPC disconnects that I bought from a guy here on HBT. Bought a Bare Enclosure from Bobby_M. Here's what I made.

Wired the 3500 watt element at 120 volts so it's only putting out 875 watts. Most RIMS tubes have a larger inside diameter, but I was thinking that less volume in the tube would be good and that even though the element contacts the sides in places, the thick wall might disperse the heat well without scorching. Leak test with a one gallon bucket heated pretty fast.

What's the HBT opinion. Did I waste my day off or will the smaller inside diameter work in the real world?

 

[jeffmeh]

Looking good. I think the second time you referred to the element you meant 3500, not 1650.

 

[AnOldUR]

Yeah, sorry. Had to edit that. I'm using a 1650 watt 120 volt somewhere else and got them confused. I bought them both at the same time, but decided not to use the 3500 watt, so it sat in the basement for a couple of years.

The one in the new RIMS is this one.

 

[kenh]

I think the smaller diameter is fine. My RIMS tube is 1-1/4" ID and it works great. My favorite beers are lagers and some of them are pretty light & show no signs of scorching.

My RIMS tube is based on instructions I found on the instructables.com web site. I'll look for the instructions & if I find them I'll post a link to this thread.

 

[kenh]

How are you going to control the temperature?

 

[crazyirishman34]

Looks good to me I am using the Brewers Hardware 1.5in tri clover RIMS tube it works great. I have 3500w element running 240v getting a degree rise in 30 seconds

 

[AnOldUR]

How are you going to control the temperature?

Right now, I'm kind of primitive there. On my current (direct heat) system I use a Johnson A419 to turn the element on and off, and a variable speed router control to manually adjust the intensity of a 1650 watt element. I haven't decided what to do with this RIMS. I was hoping that at only 875 watts and the fold back element that running at full power would not scorch. Any feedback from someone with experience would be appreciated.

 

[crazyirishman34]

I run mine on a brewtroller pid control. I run ULWD 3500 watt element at full bore. Really it depends on how fast you can recirculate the wort

 

[kenh]

Right now, I'm kind of primitive there. On my current (direct heat) system I use a Johnson A419 to turn the element on and off, and a variable speed router control to adjust the intensity of a 1650 watt element. I haven't decided what to do with this RIMS. I was hoping that at only 875 watts and the fold back element that running at full power would not scorch. Any feedback from someone with experience would be appreciated.

It's not just about scorching. To get a good, repeatable mash your temperature has to be very tightly controlled. For example, for a light bodied beer I'll mash at 145F. Also the enzymes that convert the starches denature (break down) at not much over 170F.

 

[kenh]

I think the smaller diameter is fine. My RIMS tube is 1-1/4" ID and it works great. My favorite beers are lagers and some of them are pretty light & show no signs of scorching.

My RIMS tube is based on instructions I found on the instructables.com web site. I'll look for the instructions & if I find them I'll post a link to this thread.

I found the instructions I used to build my RIMS tube.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-portable-Stainless-Steel-RIMS-tube-/

 

[AnOldUR]

I think the smaller diameter is fine. My RIMS tube is 1-1/4" ID and it works great.

I believe that 1-1/4" sch40 pipe actually has about a 1-3/8" ID, but has an OD that's about the same as mine. If I did the math right, that 9% difference in volume is only a couple of ounces of wort in tube. I thought it would be more. Still wondering if the wall thickness and the element contacting the stainless in a few places will effect anything (good or bad)?

I have 3500w element running 240v getting a degree rise in 30 seconds

hmmm . . . if running 3500 watts isn't a scorching problem, all I'd have to do is change the plug to run mine 240 volts. I already have a 20 amp 240 volt recepticle available that is used for my 3500 watt induction plate. If I get the chance, I'll to a full volume test today at the lower voltage to see what kind of stepping rate I can get.

Really it depends on how fast you can recirculate the wort

Don't you have trouble with disturbing the grain bed when you throttle the pump back less?

 

[Bobby_M]

You can definitely get away with higher wattages but there are some considerations to be aware of. First, if you don't have a temperature probe inside the tube, in reasonable proximity to the element, as a feedback mechanism to the element, you can definitely get in trouble if your pump stops or you otherwise lose flow. This is also true of low watt elements, but the crap doesn't hit the fan as quickly.

Granted I've done my testing at 1375 and 5500 watts, but you can flash boil the contents of the tube in about 5 seconds at 5500watts with no flow and if you run as slow as 1 liter per minute, it will boil also.

 

[crazyirishman34]

I have boilermaker pots so I can recirculate at about 2gpm with out problems. Also I normally use 1.5 quarts per pound and some rice hulls for good measure. I bought 25# of rice hulls a couple years ago in a grain buy and am still using them.

 

[AnOldUR]

. . . a temperature probe inside the tube, in reasonable proximity to the element, as a feedback mechanism to the element, you can definitely get in trouble

Looks like I might have to drill another hole.

And while you're here Bobby. I really like the electrical enclosure. Simple, easy and a clean setup. Very professional looking. Makes it look like I know what I'm doing. Thanks.