Decided to go for it. BIAB Here I come!

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Mic Carp

Loud Mic
Joined
Apr 17, 2019
Messages
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Location
Long Beach, Ca
After years of partial boils using extract kits, like 8 years, I finally decided to go with the BIAG method. Gonna go cheap. Bought a decent 15 gallon kettle, no ports or anything fancy, and a really nice immersion chiller, 1/2” x 50’.
This way i am already set up to do 10 gallon batches if I decide to go that route in the future.

Now to buy an app to help me calculate some of my recipes. Since i started with a blonde back in 2010 over thanksgiving, I think I’ll go the same route with my first BIAG adventure.
My gear arrives tomorrow
I’ll pick up grains next weekend from my LHBS and go for it.
 
Welcome to the method. I switched at Christmas time and don’t regret it one bit. I’m doing full volume no sparge batches and things are going well and the quality of my beer is much better than before. I don’t know about other brewing programs, but I bought BeerSmith and it allows you to set up a custom equipment profile for your rig and is essential to making recipes work for your system. If it’s not part of the equipment you are expecting tomorrow, I would strongly suggest saving up to purchase your own grain mill... a good fine crush is a must for BIAB. It’ll take you a few batches to get everything dialed in so you know what to expect from your equipment. Good luck... you’ll like it!
Sláinte
 
Thanks to both of you. I have a week to check out the apps while I’m “working” and yes, a grain mill is high on the list of brewery improvements asap.
 
I am starting out partial mash so I can see how this biab works and learn about mashing and holding temp.
.

While this is a good first step, just be warned that with PM you have much less grain, which will make holding a steady mash temp more difficult.

Larger the grain bill, easier it is to hold a steady temp.
 
I'm a big fan of Open Source (FOSS) software so I use Brewtarget. It isn't the prettiest thing on the face of the planet, but its calculations have always been spot on for me. It even helped me set up a decoction mash after I figured out what it was doing.

There are videos on YouTube to help you get started too.
 
I'm a big fan of Open Source (FOSS) software so I use Brewtarget. It isn't the prettiest thing on the face of the planet, but its calculations have always been spot on for me. It even helped me set up a decoction mash after I figured out what it was doing.

There are videos on YouTube to help you get started too.
Wow, so many choices. It looks like I will be doing some testing on the freebies first, because, well they're free. having been an extract guy, I have never even considered water quality etc.
I have a long learning curve ahead of me.
thanks for all the advice! I am going to dig in.
Now if work would just cooperate and let me study! HA HA
 
IMHO, you do not have to worry about water quality for now (or ever if you so choose). The first thing is to get used to basic BIAB brewing. Then you'll need to dial in your numbers to fit your equipment, which will take at least a few brews sessions. After you're dialed in then things like water can be researched.
 
IMHO, you do not have to worry about water quality for now (or ever if you so choose). The first thing is to get used to basic BIAB brewing. Then you'll need to dial in your numbers to fit your equipment, which will take at least a few brews sessions. After you're dialed in then things like water can be researched.
Thanks Shetc!
first order of business is getting my grain.
My LGBS has great prices on kits for extract and don't see why they would not have them on grain as well. (example their cream ale kits are $25 including yeast, online i am seeing $30+ plus yeast and plus shipping)
I'll be stopiing by this week.
 
Thanks Shetc!
first order of business is getting my grain.
My LGBS has great prices on kits for extract and don't see why they would not have them on grain as well. (example their cream ale kits are $25 including yeast, online i am seeing $30+ plus yeast and plus shipping)
I'll be stopiing by this week.
If you want to try the BIABacus then they have a couple of beginner recipes that are easy to brew, and tasty to drink. Might be easier than trying to figure out how to get a kit to fit into whatever calculator you use.
 
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IMHO, you do not have to worry about water quality for now (or ever if you so choose). The first thing is to get used to basic BIAB brewing. Then you'll need to dial in your numbers to fit your equipment, which will take at least a few brews sessions. After you're dialed in then things like water can be researched.

I think that some people don't have to worry about their water at all and they are lucky, but I would at least check a few things before getting started. If you have municipal water, these values should be available in your water authority's annual water report:

1. Do you have hard or soft water? Hard water makes it hard to mash lighter grains and vice versa.
2. Is your water pH abnormally high or low? Usually, hard water and high pH go together and will reduce your mash efficiency. You don't have to worry about it now, but it is the first place to look if you're looking to improve your process later.
3. Are you trying to pack IBUs into your beer? If so, the balance of the minerals will affect how you perceive high-IBU beers.

This should go without saying, but you should dechlorinate your water before you mash because you can create some nasty flavors. Even if you don't need to dechlorinate your water, it might be worth while to at least filter it.

Good luck on your first mash.
 
I think that some people don't have to worry about their water at all and they are lucky, but I would at least check a few things before getting started. If you have municipal water, these values should be available in your water authority's annual water report:

1. Do you have hard or soft water? Hard water makes it hard to mash lighter grains and vice versa.
2. Is your water pH abnormally high or low? Usually, hard water and high pH go together and will reduce your mash efficiency. You don't have to worry about it now, but it is the first place to look if you're looking to improve your process later.
3. Are you trying to pack IBUs into your beer? If so, the balance of the minerals will affect how you perceive high-IBU beers.

This should go without saying, but you should dechlorinate your water before you mash because you can create some nasty flavors. Even if you don't need to dechlorinate your water, it might be worth while to at least filter it.

Good luck on your first mash.

Thanks for the reply. That’s a lot to consider
I’ll look ar the water in Long Beach
 
I think that some people don't have to worry about their water at all and they are lucky, but I would at least check a few things before getting started. If you have municipal water, these values should be available in your water authority's annual water report:

1. Do you have hard or soft water? Hard water makes it hard to mash lighter grains and vice versa.
2. Is your water pH abnormally high or low? Usually, hard water and high pH go together and will reduce your mash efficiency. You don't have to worry about it now, but it is the first place to look if you're looking to improve your process later.
3. Are you trying to pack IBUs into your beer? If so, the balance of the minerals will affect how you perceive high-IBU beers.

This should go without saying, but you should dechlorinate your water before you mash because you can create some nasty flavors. Even if you don't need to dechlorinate your water, it might be worth while to at least filter it.

Good luck on your first mash.
I didn't mean to imply that water doesn't matter at all. I always treated my local city water for chloramine even when doing extract. I also now build brewing water, beginning with RO water. But I got my BIAB process locked in first.
 
I didn't mean to imply that water doesn't matter at all. I always treated my local city water for chloramine even when doing extract. I also now build brewing water, beginning with RO water. But I got my BIAB process locked in first.

I didn't mean to imply that is what you said. Sorry if it came off that way.

I just think that there are a couple of things that are at least worth noting because that it can throw off the process. If nothing else, forewarned is forearmed, and even if no adjustments are made to the water, it is good to know why the process might not turn out quite right and if you see those types of results, knowing to take a closer look at the water is a good thing to have in the back of your mind.
 
You should have have gotten a 20 gallon pot and go with a full volume mash.
15 gallon pot is in the dead zone. To much pot for 5 gallon to small for 10 gallon. Return it if you can.

Pots are around a gallon an inch.
10 gallon batches are around 14 gallons strike water leaving you only an inch add 25# of grains and your overflowing and or cutting it waaaay to close for a boil over. 20 gallons takes the worry out of it. Youll never need to worry about a boil over
 
I didn't mean to imply that is what you said. Sorry if it came off that way.

I just think that there are a couple of things that are at least worth noting because that it can throw off the process. If nothing else, forewarned is forearmed, and even if no adjustments are made to the water, it is good to know why the process might not turn out quite right and if you see those types of results, knowing to take a closer look at the water is a good thing to have in the back of your mind.
No problem, just wanted to make sure we were on the same page [emoji106]
 
What's your handle over there?

am33106. Had to go login to be sure, it's been a bit but I still check-in once in awhile...lol. It would be nice if that forum were more active. If anyone is reading this and hasn't found something they're looking for its worth digging through the forums. They're pretty organized for the most part. Shout-out to PistolPatch wherever you are mate.
 
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