Danstar London ESB Dry Ale Yeast - Anyone use it yet?

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Well, my mild that started at my desired 1.038 SG definitely stalled. It’s been fermenting for a week with ESB yeast and it is still sitting at around 1.024. I cranked the temp up to 70degf after 3 days to hope and avoid this. I pitched some S-04 just now in hopes to get it down hopefully another 10 points but I’m not holding my breath.
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Well, my mild that started at my desired 1.038 SG definitely stalled. It’s been fermenting for a week with ESB yeast and it is still sitting at around 1.024. I cranked the temp up to 70degf after 3 days to hope and avoid this. I pitched some S-04 just now in hopes to get it down hopefully another 10 points but I’m not holding my breath. View attachment 656954
Did you mash long and low and did you add simple sugars to the recipe? How much crystal was in the recipe?
 
Yes, every time I read this thread I think: I wonder why this never happens when I use this yeast? It's because all my English bitter recipes have a proportion of invert or demerara sugar, and I mash at 150F. It works. I usually finish around 1.012.
 
Did you mash long and low and did you add simple sugars to the recipe? How much crystal was in the recipe?

20% crystal 60 and I mashed at 154 for an hour. The original recipe calls for a mash at 158 but I dropped it to hopefully compensate for the yeast. Apparently I should have dropped it to 150.

After reading this thread I should have not bothered with this yeast, but it appeared to only be an issue with higher OG beers. Since I bought it before researching, I figured this would be an experiment.

The good news is that a day after pitching S-04, the beer is clear and the sample tastes much better. But, the gravity hasn’t really dropped any. If it hasn’t dropped any more by tomorrow I will bottle it and be happy with my 2% mild. RDWAHAHB
 
Yes, every time I read this thread I think: I wonder why this never happens when I use this yeast? It's because all my English bitter recipes have a proportion of invert or demerara sugar, and I mash at 150F. It works. I usually finish around 1.012.

I’m sure a bitter works great with invert sugar, but I was afraid of making my mild a little less mild by adding simple sugars. The beer tastes good as is, so I will chalk it up as a learning experience and enjoy my 2% mild.
 
20% crystal 60 and I mashed at 154 for an hour. The original recipe calls for a mash at 158 but I dropped it to hopefully compensate for the yeast. Apparently I should have dropped it to 150.

After reading this thread I should have not bothered with this yeast, but it appeared to only be an issue with higher OG beers. Since I bought it before researching, I figured this would be an experiment.

The good news is that a day after pitching S-04, the beer is clear and the sample tastes much better. But, the gravity hasn’t really dropped any. If it hasn’t dropped any more by tomorrow I will bottle it and be happy with my 2% mild. RDWAHAHB
20% crystal is way too much for a British beer. Go with five percent next time. A rough guideline is to replace the same percentage of base malt with simple sugars like invert sirup, as you have used for crystal. Five to ten percent simple sugars is within the normal range. Combined with a long rest at lower mashing temperature, like 1h at 61c and you will get decent attenuation above 70%. British yeasts want to be treated a little different than the others, than they make great beer, this yeast here included.
 
20% crystal is way too much for a British beer. Go with five percent next time. A rough guideline is to replace the same percentage of base malt with simple sugars like invert sirup, as you have used for crystal. Five to ten percent simple sugars is within the normal range. Combined with a long rest at lower mashing temperature, like 1h at 61c and you will get decent attenuation above 70%. British yeasts want to be treated a little different than the others, than they make great beer, this yeast here included.

Thanks for the tip! I was just trying to use a tried and true recipe for my first British beer, except I dropped the ball on the yeast. I will certainly tweak my recipe to less crystal and add some sugars. Already looking in to making my own invert. Doesn’t seem too hard. Cheers!
 
Thanks for the tip! I was just trying to use a tried and true recipe for my first British beer, except I dropped the ball on the yeast. I will certainly tweak my recipe to less crystal and add some sugars. Already looking in to making my own invert. Doesn’t seem too hard. Cheers!
Don't know where you got it from, but this recipe does neither sounds tried nor true nor authentic to me. It sounds a bit like a typical American stereotype of a British beer recipe to me (no offense), which will fail with a British yeast. I got a recipe in the ale recipe forum here which is quite nice. I cannot say that it is the most true to style recipe you can get, as it features a bit more wheat than common, but this only impacts the head, which I prefer to be plenty. The recipe was designed for low attenuation British yeasts and although the original yeast from the recipe would yield the best result, it certainly would also work well with lallemand ESB. in fact I'm planning to brew this beer with ESB, just to see how the result will be. It's called Miraculix Best. Let me know if you brew it and how it turns out!
 
Don't know where you got it from, but this recipe does neither sounds tried nor true nor authentic to me. It sounds a bit like a typical American stereotype of a British beer recipe to me (no offense), which will fail with a British yeast. I got a recipe in the ale recipe forum here which is quite nice. I cannot say that it is the most true to style recipe you can get, as it features a bit more wheat than common, but this only impacts the head, which I prefer to be plenty. The recipe was designed for low attenuation British yeasts and although the original yeast from the recipe would yield the best result, it certainly would also work well with lallemand ESB. in fact I'm planning to brew this beer with ESB, just to see how the result will be. It's called Miraculix Best. Let me know if you brew it and how it turns out!

I actually found the recipe here in the ale section, but I have already subscribed to yours. That will be my next British beer attempt. Thanks!
 
I actually found the recipe here in the ale section, but I have already subscribed to yours. That will be my next British beer attempt. Thanks!
It might be worth to read the entire discussion in the thread as there are some really interesting comments from knowledgeable guys who know more than me about British beers.
 
It's really hard to believe they had a tough time telling the two beers apart. The Lallemand beer finished SO much higher. I am willing to give this yeast another chance, but my experience mirrors many folks' in that my beer hit a wall at 1.020. ANNOYING.
It is a classic English ale yeast which has to be treated accordingly. You cannot use it like an American ale yeast and expect good results. Mash long and low, include at least ten percent simple sugars, don't go with high gravities. English beers are very rarely above 4.5%abv. better target something around 4tob4.3%. don't create hop bombs, 20-30 ibus, moderate late additions.

Follow this and the beer will be outstanding.
 
It is a classic English ale yeast which has to be treated accordingly. You cannot use it like an American ale yeast and expect good results. Mash long and low, include at least ten percent simple sugars, don't go with high gravities. English beers are very rarely above 4.5%abv. better target something around 4tob4.3%. don't create hop bombs, 20-30 ibus, moderate late additions.

Follow this and the beer will be outstanding.

+1 to using simple sugars and mashing low with London ESB yeast. You don't have to go as high as 10%, but a decent amount will help your attenuation. and 150F is low enough. I've used this yeast many times and it never stopped at 1.020.
 
It is a classic English ale yeast which has to be treated accordingly. You cannot use it like an American ale yeast and expect good results. Mash long and low, include at least ten percent simple sugars, don't go with high gravities. English beers are very rarely above 4.5%abv. better target something around 4tob4.3%. don't create hop bombs, 20-30 ibus, moderate late additions.

Follow this and the beer will be outstanding.
That's inspiring my next brew day. - Oooh Yeah!
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Forgot to talk about the crystal malt, ten percent is already a lot, better target something below, five percent seems to be a good amount. This will help attenuation as well. @Northern_Brewer always suggests to at least mirror the crystal percentage with the simple sugar percentage, ie. Ten % crystal and ten percent simple sugars, but if you like it a bit dryer you can obviously also lower the crystal and up the simple sugar.

Damn..... Now I'm craving a proper English ale.... But I just moved back to Germany.... And it's 8:30 in the morning and I'm in the office at work :D
 
Forgot to talk about the crystal malt, ten percent is already a lot, better target something below, five percent seems to be a good amount. This will help attenuation as well. @Northern_Brewer always suggests to at least mirror the crystal percentage with the simple sugar percentage, ie. Ten % crystal and ten percent simple sugars, but if you like it a bit dryer you can obviously also lower the crystal and up the simple sugar.

Damn..... Now I'm craving a proper English ale.... But I just moved back to Germany.... And it's 8:30 in the morning and I'm in the office at work :D
...
51bOpXFTCQL._SX466_.jpeg
 
It is a classic English ale yeast which has to be treated accordingly. You cannot use it like an American ale yeast and expect good results. Mash long and low, include at least ten percent simple sugars, don't go with high gravities. English beers are very rarely above 4.5%abv. better target something around 4tob4.3%. don't create hop bombs, 20-30 ibus, moderate late additions.

Follow this and the beer will be outstanding.
This sounds exactly like my year in brewing. I'm striving to brew session beers. And by session, I mean everything under 4% abv. I'm excited to brew again and drink without getting effed up. Thanks for the tips.
 
Forgot to talk about the crystal malt, ten percent is already a lot, better target something below, five percent seems to be a good amount. This will help attenuation as well. @Northern_Brewer always suggests to at least mirror the crystal percentage with the simple sugar percentage, ie. Ten % crystal and ten percent simple sugars, but if you like it a bit dryer you can obviously also lower the crystal and up the simple sugar.

Damn..... Now I'm craving a proper English ale.... But I just moved back to Germany.... And it's 8:30 in the morning and I'm in the office at work :D
So you should have a hefeweizen then! I don't know if they still have the 9am tradition of a hefeweizen there anymore. Any maybe that was only for the service/manufacturing industry?
 
So you should have a hefeweizen then! I don't know if they still have the 9am tradition of a hefeweizen there anymore. Any maybe that was only for the service/manufacturing industry?
That was Bavarian, I live in the north so that never was a topic here. In Bavaria it is still not uncommon to have one or two beers during the day at lunch, but certainly not for breakfast.
 
This sounds exactly like my year in brewing. I'm striving to brew session beers. And by session, I mean everything under 4% abv. I'm excited to brew again and drink without getting effed up. Thanks for the tips.
So we have the same goals, I also be almost only session beers, as low as 2%. It's hard to get them to taste like a proper beer, but it's worth it. It gets really hard at sub 3%, but still it is possible. Next thing I'll try is cold mashing. I found some articles in the sub 1.03 og beer thread and it sounds promising!
 
So we have the same goals, I also be almost only session beers, as low as 2%. It's hard to get them to taste like a proper beer, but it's worth it. It gets really hard at sub 3%, but still it is possible. Next thing I'll try is cold mashing. I found some articles in the sub 1.03 og beer thread and it sounds promising!
I think the strategic use of specialty grains might be the answer. From everything I'm reading about producing good low abv beers, that has been consistently sited as being a great way to produce depth of flavor and body. As well as mashing high and short, both of which I'm starting to incorporate. It's got me excited to brew again, that's for sure.
 
I think the strategic use of specialty grains might be the answer. From everything I'm reading about producing good low abv beers, that has been consistently sited as being a great way to produce depth of flavor and body. As well as mashing high and short, both of which I'm starting to incorporate. It's got me excited to brew again, that's for sure.
Yes, that works in a way, but what you are doing is just introducing that particular taste of the speciality malt at a higher rate. For example, a medium crystal would introduce a caramel-ish flavour and when you bump the amount, you also bump this flavour. But the missing flavours from the genarally lowered amount of base malt cannot be compensated by this very well. Sure, you can use Vienna and Munich, but then it's still not the same. This cold mashing looks like it can extract the flavour and body from the base make with literally only getting about 25% of the sugars. A bit of a waste, but on the other hand, exactly what I'm after.
 
Yes, that works in a way, but what you are doing is just introducing that particular taste of the speciality malt at a higher rate. For example, a medium crystal would introduce a caramel-ish flavour and when you bump the amount, you also bump this flavour. But the missing flavours from the genarally lowered amount of base malt cannot be compensated by this very well. Sure, you can use Vienna and Munich, but then it's still not the same. This cold mashing looks like it can extract the flavour and body from the base make with literally only getting about 25% of the sugars. A bit of a waste, but on the other hand, exactly what I'm after.
Cold mashing is what I've been doing a couple of times lately with good results, I intend to keep doing it. I started to do it for two major reasons, to brew tasty low abv and to simplify the brew day.
 
@schmurf and @Miraculix How do you guys perform the cold mash by keeping the mash cold? And for how long do you mash?

I'm okay with a bit less of the base malt flavor. Specialty malts can get you a good flavor if you use the right ones. I think for lighter styles carahell is a nice addition plus vienna/munich. It's going to be fun to experiment with. I'd like to try this cold mashing method as well.
 
@schmurf and @Miraculix How do you guys perform the cold mash by keeping the mash cold? And for how long do you mash?

I'm okay with a bit less of the base malt flavor. Specialty malts can get you a good flavor if you use the right ones. I think for lighter styles carahell is a nice addition plus vienna/munich. It's going to be fun to experiment with. I'd like to try this cold mashing method as well.
Haven't done it myself but the consensus is to hold it over night at about 5 degrees, then remove the grains, raise the liquid temperature to normal mashing temp schedule and from there on treat it as if the grains would still be inside. After the liquid mash is done, boil as normal.
 
I keep it in the fridge for about 18-24 hours, it's probably a bit longer than necessary but it suits my schedule. I use more or less the same grain bill that I would for a "normal" mash. On brewday, bringing up to mash temp for something like 30 minutes, then boil as usual. I have used the wort as it is, and also been adding DME/invert to raise ABV.
 
Sounds like an interesting experiment. I may have to brew a 2.5 gallon batch and try it out. Thanks for the info.
 
Forgot to talk about the crystal malt, ten percent is already a lot, better target something below, five percent seems to be a good amount. This will help attenuation as well. @Northern_Brewer always suggests to at least mirror the crystal percentage with the simple sugar percentage, ie. Ten % crystal and ten percent simple sugars, but if you like it a bit dryer you can obviously also lower the crystal and up the simple sugar.

Just to be clear, I'm quite happy for people to brew the full range, from sugar with no crystal (Manchester style) to crystal with no sugar (like Fuller's for instance). I just have a problem when people are using 10+% crystal with nothing to balance it out, which is as extreme and unbalanced as 130 IBU West Coast IPAs.

So yeah, aim for 4.2-4.4% ABV, BU:GU of 0.8, grist with something like 4-5% UK crystal and the same amount of sugar (ideally invert #1, golden syrup is an easy replacement for those in the UK, table sugar will do). 1-2% UK chocolate malt is a nice optional tweak. Be generous with gypsum in the water, and use the most characterful yeast you can get ( so probably not Lallemand ESB...)

That won't give you the perfect bitter for my personal taste, but it will give you a good "average" bitter to act as a starting point for further experimentation, whether that's taking it in a more Northern or southern direction or just tweaking it to you personal taste and/or terroir.

..... Now I'm craving a proper English ale.... But I just moved back to Germany.... And it's 8:30 in the morning and I'm in the office at work :D

That'll teach you to make these big life decisions that are complete mistakes from a beer POV! Sorry our paths never crossed IRL whilst you were here, another time.
 
Haven't done it myself but the consensus is to hold it over night at about 5 degrees, then remove the grains, raise the liquid temperature to normal mashing temp schedule and from there on treat it as if the grains would still be inside. After the liquid mash is done, boil as normal.
If I didn't know you better, I'd think today is April 1st. Hmm.... Close. It's February 1st.
 
If I didn't know you better, I'd think today is April 1st. Hmm.... Close. It's February 1st.
Yeah, I also thought "da f*CK!?" When first seeing it, but it actually makes sense.

While staying waaaaaay below enzyme activity temperature and cool enough to keep bacteria at bay, the water still solves most of the aromatic compounds and just a smaller percentage of the starch plus all the available enzymes. Heating the liquid after removing the grain, then mashes the starch in solution while the majority of the starch has been removed with the grain.

The spent grain can be used for another beer which is supposed to be light in malt flavor, it just needs some additional malt rich in enzymes.
 
This sounds like a fun experiment and doable for brew in a bag in my fermentation fridge over night.
 
Sorry to resurrect a dead thread but I brewed an English Brown Ale with this yeast and it seems to have under-attenuated. OG was 1.045 and I was expecting a FG of 1.013 (BeerSmith estimate). After 12 days in the fermenter, my gravity is 1.024 (45.7% attenuation). I am trying to figure out what to do now. Just drink it and call it a mild? Or try to restart fermentation by rousing the yeast, increasing the temp, and adding some corn sugar?
 
Sorry to resurrect a dead thread but I brewed an English Brown Ale with this yeast and it seems to have under-attenuated. OG was 1.045 and I was expecting a FG of 1.013 (BeerSmith estimate). After 12 days in the fermenter, my gravity is 1.024 (45.7% attenuation). I am trying to figure out what to do now. Just drink it and call it a mild? Or try to restart fermentation by rousing the yeast, increasing the temp, and adding some corn sugar?
Based on my experience with this yeast, my suggestion is to give it more time. Quoting my (rather old) post:
Two weeks ago I brewed a bitter and used this yeast for the first time. Simple recipe, 10lb MO, .5lb carapils, .5lb Fawcett crystal 1. Warrior (bittering) and EKG hops. Somehow messed up measuring or calculations on the mash and ended up with a very high mash temp initially (around 163F) which i corrected. Ended up with an OG of 1.048.

Hydrated and pitched the yeast into oxygenated wort and put the the fermenter in my temp controlled chamber per my usual routine. Had obvious fermentation activity within a few hours, which is faster than I typically see. A day later it was clearly going well, and at 36 hours had seemingly already finished. I ramped temp up over a couple days, then took it out of the chamber and let it sit in the house (around 70F) aiming to give the yeast some warmth and time to finish up. Saw no activity.

About a week into fermentation (a week ago) i took a gravity sample and was sad to see it at 1.020. Recalling my high initial mash temp, I couldn't be entirely surprised though. Looking around, found this thread and saw lots of reports of low attenuation and figured that I may need to pitch some more yeast or brett to get close to target FG and not have a terribly sweet beer. As I don't rush my beers, I just let it sit and figured I'd at least take another gravity sample in a few days.

About a week later brings me to this morning. Take a glance at the fermenter and see airlock activity. That seems strange, there's been no big temperature changes in the room, so I take a closer look. There's a thin (but normal loooking) krausen on the beer and it seems to be actively fermenting again.

I'm going to let this sit for at least a couple more weeks at this point. Just thought I'd share this in case anyone else is seeing this odd dormant period with this yeast. I won't rule out some sort of infection (which would explain what I'm seeing) but it seems unlikely.
I had a pretty similar stall and the fermentation picked back up with more time in the fermenter.
 
Thanks for the advice. For now, I am increasing the temperature of my fermentation chamber from 66F to 70F. Hopefully, it will pick up again.
 
As TallDan predicted, my wort finally hit the target FG of 1.013. I raised the temp to 70F and swirled the carboy every day to rouse the yeast. I don't know if it would have finished fermenting on it's own or if the extra steps I took did it. Either way, I have learned something about using this yeast. Will keg it and see if the final product is worth the extra time and TLC the yeast needed.
 
As TallDan predicted, my wort finally hit the target FG of 1.013. I raised the temp to 70F and swirled the carboy every day to rouse the yeast. I don't know if it would have finished fermenting on it's own or if the extra steps I took did it. Either way, I have learned something about using this yeast. Will keg it and see if the final product is worth the extra time and TLC the yeast needed.
If you keep the wort fermentable, step mashing or mashing long at 62c, you wouldn't need to do that. Also including some simple sugars, for example 10% helps with that. After all, it's an English yeast and wants to be treated as such.

Although, rousing the yeast is actually also part of some traditional British brewing methods.
 

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