Danby DAR044A6BSLDB Build, 2x5 Gallon Kegs

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rjr22

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This is my first post, but since I’ve gathered so much valuable info here I wanted to post my kegerator build here in case it might help someone planning a similar build. My build had a few variables that I couldn’t really find here or anywhere else so hopefully this helps if you’re in the same boat.

The kegerator was going in my laundry room under a prep table and next to a stacked washer/dryer so due to the space limitations my goals of the build were: (1) smallest footprint kegerator that can hold 1 five gallon corny keg and 1 five gallon (1/6 barrel) sanke commercial keg (2) Taps on the door of the refrigerator (3) CO2 tank inside the refrigerator
Through all my research it looked like the Danby 4.4 cu ft. all refrigerator (no freezer) was a good affordable solution. My local Costco had the DAR044A6BSLDB for $149 which was a newer model than the one in most of the forums, but was ~$70 cheaper. So I gave it a try, and even though I was able to make it work, I found out that this model had a couple challenges that the previous models did not.

First off, the top of the door has a recessed section that is used as the door handle/pull. This is only an issue if you were planning on putting the taps through the door (as I was). My concern was that if couldn’t put the shanks high enough, they would hit the kegs when the door shut. So I installed them just beneath the recessed portion (as high as possible) and decided to order the shortest shanks possible, which turned out to be 3 inch shanks.

I trimmed the door all the way down with a dremel as mentioned in various other threads, then drilled two 1” holes in the door 4” apart from each other for each shank. Turns out, the 3” shank is too short to install it with the faucet and the collar/flange. The 4 inch shank would have had enough clearance to shut the door, but I decided to keep the 3 inch shanks and install them without the collar instead of returning them.

The second issue was the width. Turns out this model is too narrow to accommodate one 5 gallon ball lock corny and one 5 gallon sanke keg (2x5 gallon ball lock cornys fit fine though). It was already too late to return it so I figured I’d see what I could do. I decided to shave the shelf supports off with the dremel to see if that would make it work, but it was still too narrow. So I ended up taking the entire plastic sidewall off on both sides for the entire width and height of the kegs. Note: there are wires running up the right side in the insulation. Do not cut too deep or you could cut the wires. I assume they’re either for the door switch or the light itself but I don’t know for sure. Then I sealed it all up with aluminum tape. This did the trick, and I’m now able to fit one ball lock corny, one 5 gallon sanke, and my 5 pound CO2 tank inside the fridge.

I’ve had it running for about 3 months now and have gone through 3 kegs. All in all I’m happy with how it turned out, but it was much more involved than I thought it was going to be. Here are some pics of the build. If you have questions about specifics, part numbers, etc. I’d be happy to share. Without the info that I’ve found here I would never have tackled a project like this, so thanks to everyone who takes time to share their knowledge and experience.

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Thanks for posting this I'm actually just about to begin my Kegerator build with this exact mini fridge from Costco. Good to see it worked out for you and yours looks great! Only difference is I plan to drill through the top and install a tower.

Couple questions on your build...

Regarding trimming the side panels. So I won't have to trim the side panels at all in order to fit 2 corny kegs in there? I know I will have to trim the door but wondering if I will have to do the sides as well. And it sounds like there are wires on the right side but not the left? Just want to make sure I'm careful while trimming.

Speaking of the dremel is there a specific cutting bit I should be using to get through the plastic? I'm going to borrow a dremel from a friend but will probably buy my own bit for it so I don't mess up theirs.

How have the temps been so far with the fridge...cold enough? Do you use a temperature controller with it?

Anything you would do differently? Still happy that you chose this fridge from Costco and not a different model?

Appreciate the post and sorry for the barrage of questions!
 
Mmacdon3 glad to hear you're planning a build with the same unit. Yes I'm happy with it and would still choose it again knowing what I know now. Sounds like griffi is as well. No worries with the questions, happy to help. Let's see if I can cover them all.

Side panels- I'm new to kegging and I haven't encountered many different varieties of cornys, but the two that I put in there fit without any modification to the side panels (pic below). The one that I bought (left with black bottom) is the Keg King 5 gallon ball lock from William's Brewing. I think it's standard width but don't know for sure. The one on the right is a friend's and it's the exact same diameter. Maybe griffi can share more on the corny size since he only needed to shave the shelf supports (not the whole side panel). I only saw wires on the right side, nothing on the left so if you only need to shave one side, I would start with the left.

For the dremel, good call buying your own bit. I borrowed my friend's as well and ended up buying him a replacement bit because I wore it out. I used the 1.5" metal ez clip cutting blade. Cut right through plastic and insulation like butter. Wear safety glasses and a mask because it gets everywhere.

Temps are good, it's colder at the bottom than the top. I have the dial set to ~80% coldness and I get about 45F at the warmest spot, 36F at the cold spot. I pretty much adjusted the setting until the beer tasted cold enough, then balanced the CO2 to match. I don't use a controller, just the built in dial. I do have a temp controller that I'm using for another project so I just put the probe in a couple spots to take a few readings. I think it could definitely benefit from a fan, especially if you're going to put a tower on it.

Good luck with the build, I'd love to see pics when you're done. If you have more questions let me know.

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Thanks again....I should be good to go I think. I have most of everything I need and will be picking up the fridge from Costco tonight.

I'll make sure to document the build with pictures and provide an update later on. :mug:
 
So I was finally able to finish up my build with this fridge and figured I'd post an update. Here are some pictures.

One of the first things I did while waiting to borrow some power tools was insulate the tower. I didn't like the cheap styrofoam that came with it so I used sticky pipe insulation instead. I also bought some 1/2" copper pipe that I will feed the beer lines through and to help cool the tower.

Next step was dremeling the door panel off. This took some time but it definitely helped to cut some cross sections and remove in pieces. Avoid pulling off large pieces quickly as it can remove large chunks of insulation. After this was finished I attached a marker board and secured with silicone adhesive and aluminum tape.

After that I dremeled off the side paneling. I decided just to dremel it all off to make as much room as possible. I fortunately did not run into any wires. The side was then closed up with aluminum tape and then white duct tape to make it look a little better.

Final step was to drill the hole in the top. My measurements worked out and were pretty accurate. Also I did reinforce the top of the fridge with 2 layers of left over marker board so the tower does not wobble.

My fermentation fridge is actually full at the moment so I am using the kegerator as one for the time being! Can't wait to get some beers on tap and test it out

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And here are the last of the pictures. Let me know if there are any questions from someone attempting a similar build.

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Nice job. I really like the idea of using white duct tape to hide the aluminum tape. I think I'm going to borrow that idea! Is that a thermocouple coming up through the drain plug to keep it at fermentation temp? Was it easy to feed the wire through? I have a temp controller that I rarely use and had considering using the kegerator as a fermentation chamber when it's empty.
 
Thanks! It's an Inkbird ITC-308 temperature controller. The probe fit perfectly through the drain and only took a minute to set it up. The plan is to attach it to a keg or bottle of water to regulate the temp of the kegs.

At the moment though it is controlling the fermentation temp. I even was able to put a reptile heat cord in there along with a flask and stir plate and those 2 three gallon carboys....tight fit! I doubt I will be doing much fermenting in there in the future though once I get the kegs going.
 
I double checked my model number to make sure I didn't have a typo in my title. Mine doesn't have the "C" but if the volume is still 4.4 then it should be close if not the same. The door design looks identical too so it could be the same unit. Although the price that came up when I clicked the link was $80 more than I paid. Not sure if I just caught it when it was on sale but at that price Amazon might have a better deal if you get prime shipping.
 
No I don't think you have a typo, when you search your model number it also comes up. Maybe it means Canada, since I am in Canada, I don't know. Bought the same fridge from costco, Got the door all done today, rest of the parts should arrive tomorrow.

As far as I have seen in this threat and others there should be no worries of any lines or electoral in the top of the fridge, correct?
 
That's my understanding but I installed my taps in the door so I can't confirm from experience. Seems like most people install the tower on top of these Danbys but I went with door taps so it would fit under a table in my laundry room.

The Canada "C" thing is a good idea and could be the reason for the different model number.
 
Did you know that there were no coolant lines where you planned to drill? (through the top...)
 
Did you know that there were no coolant lines where you planned to drill? (through the top...)

This model does not have coolant lines on top. I think they only run on the side walls.

This guy has a really good YouTube video of the entire build.

 
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