GreenMonti
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Ha ha no no... I wrote something else, I and I answered my own question.
What was the question Pol?
Ha ha no no... I wrote something else, I and I answered my own question.
I have read countless posts on the best way to control electric elements. I looked into PWMs, and infinite control switches, etc... I believe that the most simple, cost effective way to control an element is with a PID, and SSR.
GreenMonti, I have read your posts concerning welding, and I believe that you are not lazy, and I think that you are wrong about the PID and SSR being too complicated.
If you think about the SSR being a contactor, and the PID being a switch to close the contactor, this probably the easiest way to think about it.
A bonus with the PID, is that you can manually control the output, or you can let the PID maintain output.
Just my .02
Could you do the same type of thing by putting the previously mentioned infinite switch onto 1 leg of the 5500W element. Then at full bore you would have 5500W and it would be adjustable from 2750W to 5500W for post boil control? Or would that mess with the GCFI?You could get a single 5500W element and drive it with 240VAC until the boil starts. Then, use a SPDT switch to disconnect one leg of the 240VAC source and connect a neutral line in its place. You would then have 120VAC driving the element at 1375W.
I don't know if you could sustain a 15-20 gallon boil at 1375W, but a 5-10 gallon brew should be ok. I'm using 2750W to sustain a 17.5 gallon rolling boil on my rig.
Could you do the same type of thing by putting the previously mentioned infinite switch onto 1 leg of the 5500W element. Then at full bore you would have 5500W and it would be adjustable from 2750W to 5500W for post boil control? Or would that mess with the GCFI?
Interesting; would a 12V DC power supply be needed to run this?
If you're interested I can post instructions.
Mine has a welded bung to thread the element into, but you could use weldless fittings to secure the element. I had it that way until I broke down and finally welded the bung in.
Here is my controller-less E-Keggle
20 amp infinite control with 4500 watt element
Please excuse the crud on my keggle.
Check this out
http://www.robertshawtstats.com/spaw2/SiteContent/Files/FAQ/150-2160.pdf
this should clear things up for anyone interested
Is that 18 amps from your element at max, or just in general? Not sure exactly how the infinite switch works, but if it's like a PWM, you could probably stick a cheap 40A SSR in that box with room to spare....and your overcurrent worries are over!
How does it do with being stuck to the side of a 200F keg?
The 240v 15A infinite switch seems perfect as a cheap alternative. You can use a 3500W element and should be able maintain a boil on 12 gallons. I think I might actually like this better than a PID and SSR. It seems to give better control of the boil off rate. I might just be a little unsure how a PID is used to control the boil off rate. It seems a PID used for the BK is just trying to maintain 212F. Maybe someone with a better understanding could clear up the use of a PID on a BK.
Thanks for the idea on the infinite switch though!
Cool, so yes a 15amp control. Do you have a GFCI on this circuit?
I know some of you are going to scold me, but no, not at the moment.
Just a 30amp circuit breaker.
If it makes any one feel better it's grounded properly.
Not to scold, but to inform anyone that may read this and take it out of context-- having it properly grounded does nothing to solve the problem that a GFCI is used for. The GFCI in basic terms reads a difference in current running through the separate legs, i.e. your body becoming a receptacle for current, and shuts off if this is detected. A ground cannot help you if this occurs.
Throw in a gfci breaker to this setup though, and very nice, easy, and safe!
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