My biggest concern with a conical would be having access to a floor drain very close in the event of any mishap. All the liquid can come out the bottom.
I think that’s a pretty cool idea, using milk cans.. I wouldn’t have thought to but now I might consider it in the future.my milk can has a big enough top i can scoop yeast out of it though!
I am absolutely certain it will suck to carry but I don’t mind that. It has nice big handles opposed to the ss brew bucket I have been using.I guess you'd be better off brewing next to it, too, or faff about transferring wort. I can just manage to carry a full 29L kegmenter down the stairs to our basement. The full 50Ls I leave for the wife to carry down. Full conicals look a bit awkward to carry anywhere.
I'm still at a loss to understand how I could attach something like the above and then be able to transfer out to another container without opening up to re-insert the floating dip tube with only a single opening. Am I missing something?With a 4" TC lid the options are almost endless.
View attachment 749373
Edit: You can put one of these together yourself and save some money. I don't use one myself. I only use pellet hops for lagers. Anyway, here's a better answer to your question:
You'd use something like that if your aim was oxygen-free dry hopping, apparently. I think that was your initial question. In most cases, yes, you might have to swap the lid for another one to pressure transfer, which is pretty straightforward to do. Unless you had lids like mine, which have 3-4 ports, and can do a number of things associated with ball-lock posts, e.g. gas in, gas out, liquid out, thermowell, and an off-centred 1.5" TC ferrule.I'm still at a loss to understand how I could attach something like the above and then be able to transfer out to another container without opening up to re-insert the floating dip tube with only a single opening. Am I missing something?
"Other suggestions" Have you moved to kegging from bottling yet? If you have not I would use your company's money to get set up with a kegging and kegerator or keezer/beer fridge scenario.I haven't thought too much about it. I always thought it was a cost I couldn't justify. But.....my company is offering me $1000 to purchase my anniversary gift.
I went to the spike store and quickly made up a $995 CF5 bundle - comprising of most of the bells and whistles I would need.
Do you love your conical? Other suggestions.
I've been kegging since the 1990's. I have a scratch and dent fridge that I converted into a 2 tap kegerator back then too. A few years ago I went to stainless steel anvil fermenter and a dedicated fermentation chamber, but I have issues keeping my NEIPAs free from oxygen when I dry hop after cold crashing.Have you moved to kegging from bottling yet? If you have not I would use your company's money to get set up with a kegging and kegerator or keezer/beer fridge scenario.
... i'm too big to fit into my cf5 jacket. Anyone have a spare 1bbl size?I guess conical fanboys could wear a glycol jacket
Yeah- my cf5 sits inside the (small) home we rent. I have it on a cheap Harbor Freight cart. There is a 5" lip on the top, so any leaks should be contained. I dump trub via the bottom port through a 1" hose into a 5 gal bucket. After racking there is always some mess to clean up, but it's an easy wipe down. I wish i had a dedicated room with floor drain though!!My biggest concern with a conical would be having access to a floor drain very close in the event of any mishap. All the liquid can come out the bottom.
And you REALLY think anyone here would drink that swill? Just being a bit facetious...One could argue that Bud lite is not real beer.
Life is too short to drink shi* beer!
And with a non conical, i.e, plastic bucket, straight sided, flat bottom fermenter, you'll have a quart left on the bottom if the valve fails.... i'm too big to fit into my cf5 jacket. Anyone have a spare 1bbl size?
Yeah- my cf5 sits inside the (small) home we rent. I have it on a cheap Harbor Freight cart. There is a 5" lip on the top, so any leaks should be contained. I dump trub via the bottom port through a 1" hose into a 5 gal bucket. After racking there is always some mess to clean up, but it's an easy wipe down. I wish i had a dedicated room with floor drain though!!
To the OP: go for it! You will enjoy it. But be prepared to want cooling options soon: glycol chiller most likely. Or a fridge.
Making beer should be fun.
I refuse to accept conicals as practical at home-brew level. For the budget you'd be so much better off buying 3 kegmenters, IMHO.
I haven't thought too much about it. I always thought it was a cost I couldn't justify. But.....my company is offering me $1000 to purchase my anniversary gift.
I went to the spike store and quickly made up a $995 CF5 bundle - comprising of most of the bells and whistles I would need.
Do you love your conical? Other suggestions.
No, an even bigger waste of money. I don't buy into canning home brew either. Both conicals and canning were developed in brewing to increase profit for commercial breweries. The application at home-brew scales is limited, IMHO. Having money to burn still requires reasoned justification to spend. What about 2 kegmenters and an EasyDens hydrometer? I've been playing with my new EasyDens all day and it's the dog's bollocks. A quality instrument any home brewer would get a lot of mileage for his buck.Those who think it's a waste, how about a canner? Cannular at MoreBeer is $760 for the top of the line, throw in some cans and I'm at my $1000.
No, an even bigger waste of money. I don't buy into canning home brew either.
replying to the T bond partdamn man, you're starting to just sound like you're no fun!
i mean i just fill up 1 liter empty coke battles, with a 1/4" tube out of my picnic tap...but some people like toys. i don't see anything wrong with that.
in all seriousness, if my company said what do you want for $1000, i'd say some treasury bonds!
They want it to be a gift, something you normally wouldn't get. Until a few years ago you could get golf clubs at a high end fitter, jewelry from a high end jeweler (both local) or a gift from Tiffany's.
The last time I looked, an empty can with a lid, purchased in realistic quantities cost about 50 cents.Those who think it's a waste, how about a canner? Cannular at MoreBeer is $760 for the top of the line, throw in some cans and I'm at my $1000.
I'm sure I won't get a canner now that I think about it more...or is that drink about it...either way.The last time I looked, an empty can with a lid, purchased in realistic quantities cost about 50 cents.
That was enough to turn me off the idea.
Those who think it's a waste, how about a canner? Cannular at MoreBeer is $760 for the top of the line, throw in some cans and I'm at my $1000.
I refuse to accept conicals as practical ...
If my employer offered me $1000 to buy myself a gift you could knock me over with a feather (I’m self-employed and my boss is a jerk ).
I refuse to accept homebrewing as practical.
Yet, here I am.
With a 4" TC lid the options are almost endless.
View attachment 749373
Edit: You can put one of these together yourself and save some money. I don't use one myself. I only use pellet hops for lagers. Anyway, here's a better answer to your question:
Do you need a license from NASA to run that?I'd say think about the 'running costs'. They're superfluous mainly and simply do not translate into better beer.
View attachment 749413
We’ve been hearing about a national aluminum shortage for a year, too. Supposedly caused by the latest round of cheap canning machines that allow every brewery and microbrewery to be canning beer now. The big boys have responded by putting more of their beer in cans. Along with the rise of hard seltzer, which is all cans.The last time I looked, an empty can with a lid, purchased in realistic quantities cost about 50 cents.
That was enough to turn me off the idea.
But I'm not too sure how I'd set it up with a thermowell and be able to take gravity samples.
I don’t play golf and the only jewelry I ever wear is my wedding ring. So that would turn into a nice gift for my wife if it was me and those were my only choices. Got a big anniversary coming up or anything?replying to the T bond part
They want it to be a gift, something you normally wouldn't get. Until a few years ago you could get golf clubs at a high end fitter, jewelry from a high end jeweler (both local) or a gift from Tiffany's.
Why, it's just another few hundred dollars!! Lol.And bottling is bad enough, but how exactly do you can beer without major oxygen exposure that everybody is so concerned about?
Thanks for your thoughts. You have all the toys.For the OP... I have two Spike CF10 fermenters along with the goodies to fully utilize them. Chill coils in both and I purchased the heating pads recently since the room I ferment in is getting on the cooler side this winter. With the glycol chiller (IceMaster Max4 currently) I can easily get the batch to both fermenting temperatures (when the room is warmer), chilled for yeast harvesting, or chill even further to carbonate. All in fermenter. NOT moving the beer until it's ready for packaging is a great thing IME.
I'm waiting for Brewers Hardware to have one of their 15 gallon jacketed conical fermenters available for purchase. I want to see how they differ in real world use cases. Both have the 2" bottom dump valve for either yeast harvest or infusion. I have a yeast brink now, so I can do a sanitary yeast infusion into the wort post chill.
For canning, I have the Cannular Pro machine and it kicks the crap out of the manual version. I had issues getting good crimps with the manual, but not even a single issue with the pro model.
I have the original Tapcooler filler setup for filling cans direct from conical. No faucets or anything needed. I simply place a TC to liquid ball lock post fitting onto the racking arm valve on the conical and get to it. I do fill up a keg before canning the rest of the batch (I use either 2.5 or 3 gallon kegs, canning the balance of a 7-8 gallon batch).
For the record, I was using kegmenters for years. Last year I had built a fermentation chamber to better control temperatures. No way could I get the thing to carbonating temperatures, even if I wanted to. Not to mention the thing was large, to hold two to three fermenters, and took up a significant amount of space in the room I ferment in. I would have to shift it around to either get to things, or do projects. With the glycol chiller (on wheels) plus conical fermenters (also on wheels) I can move any one of those items to make it a non-issue. I wouldn't get another conical without wheels. Plus I'd make damned sure I have enough room to attach the yeast brink to the bottom for either yeast harvest or infusion. The short legs from Spike do the job there. The Brewers Hardware conical uses TC pipe for leg extensions.
With the changes I made, with the shift to using conicals, I can now have a batch go from grain to glass in two to three weeks. Depending on the recipe of course. With carbonating in conical, after fermentation is finished is a great thing. I do ferment under pressure, but typically only let it build to about 5psi. That's because of how the yeast will work at those pressure levels. I use one strain for the majority of my brews now (was using two, but changed earlier this year). I have an imperial stout on deck that will be using a different yeast.
Yes, kegmenters are relatively wide. They're basically stackable beer kegs with 4" TC ferrules. A big fridge is definitely useful. I think I could get at least 2 stacks of 3 in my corner fridge.For the OP... I have two Spike CF10 fermenters along with the goodies to fully utilize them. Chill coils in both and I purchased the heating pads recently since the room I ferment in is getting on the cooler side this winter. With the glycol chiller (IceMaster Max4 currently) I can easily get the batch to both fermenting temperatures (when the room is warmer), chilled for yeast harvesting, or chill even further to carbonate. All in fermenter. NOT moving the beer until it's ready for packaging is a great thing IME.
I'm waiting for Brewers Hardware to have one of their 15 gallon jacketed conical fermenters available for purchase. I want to see how they differ in real world use cases. Both have the 2" bottom dump valve for either yeast harvest or infusion. I have a yeast brink now, so I can do a sanitary yeast infusion into the wort post chill.
For canning, I have the Cannular Pro machine and it kicks the crap out of the manual version. I had issues getting good crimps with the manual, but not even a single issue with the pro model.
I have the original Tapcooler filler setup for filling cans direct from conical. No faucets or anything needed. I simply place a TC to liquid ball lock post fitting onto the racking arm valve on the conical and get to it. I do fill up a keg before canning the rest of the batch (I use either 2.5 or 3 gallon kegs, canning the balance of a 7-8 gallon batch).
For the record, I was using kegmenters for years. Last year I had built a fermentation chamber to better control temperatures. No way could I get the thing to carbonating temperatures, even if I wanted to. Not to mention the thing was large, to hold two to three fermenters, and took up a significant amount of space in the room I ferment in. I would have to shift it around to either get to things, or do projects. With the glycol chiller (on wheels) plus conical fermenters (also on wheels) I can move any one of those items to make it a non-issue. I wouldn't get another conical without wheels. Plus I'd make damned sure I have enough room to attach the yeast brink to the bottom for either yeast harvest or infusion. The short legs from Spike do the job there. The Brewers Hardware conical uses TC pipe for leg extensions.
With the changes I made, with the shift to using conicals, I can now have a batch go from grain to glass in two to three weeks. Depending on the recipe of course. With carbonating in conical, after fermentation is finished is a great thing. I do ferment under pressure, but typically only let it build to about 5psi. That's because of how the yeast will work at those pressure levels. I use one strain for the majority of my brews now (was using two, but changed earlier this year). I have an imperial stout on deck that will be using a different yeast.
I have a 1-1/2" TC sight glass that was crammed with 3oz of hop pellets. I wouldn't advise trying that much in that size sight glass. I also do the CO2 purged dry hop addition method with this. IME, 2oz of hops gives my ales a very nice additional hop flavor and aroma where I want it. YMMV.Thanks for your thoughts. You have all the toys.
Right now I'm leaning towards the Spike Flex+ since I brew in my garage (propane and steam venting), but ferment and dispense in my basement, I need to transport my wort downstairs. I think the Spike Flex+ with most of the bells and whistles will fit the bill and I cobbled together a cart for $1001 and I think the only thing I'm missing is a 12"x1.5" TC Spool Tube12"x1.5" TC Spool Tube to allow no oxygen dry hop under pressure. I figure if a 5" x 1.5" sight glass holds 3 oz of hop pellets (not enough), then 12" should hold 8 oz which is a few more than I've been doing and I don't have to fiddle with reducers or using the 4" port that will be occupied by a cooling coil.
I don't have a floor drain and I haven't been harvesting yeast (maybe when I retire) so I don't really need the CF5, and I don't need to drink any more than I'm drinking now, and I like trying new recipes, so I'll stay with the 5-7 gallon size. Currently I have an Anvil Bucket fermenter in a dedicated fermentation chamber as my only fermenter, so ....
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