Conical owners - should I pull the trigger?

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My biggest concern with a conical would be having access to a floor drain very close in the event of any mishap. All the liquid can come out the bottom.
 
:mischievous::popcorn:😍:bigmug: my milk can has a big enough top i can scoop yeast out of it though! :mug:
I think that’s a pretty cool idea, using milk cans.. I wouldn’t have thought to but now I might consider it in the future.

I just purchased a 10g torpedo ball lock keg and replaced the lid with norcal brewing solutions keg lid with thermowell for temp control. It should do for not but if I had the money or someone was buying me a conical I would love it. I am a gearhead though. I love stuff like that.

One major benefit I see to conicals and similar (even some cheaper plastic fermenters) is temp control without a fridge or freezer. I like the idea of having that so I could use my freezer to freeze again…or build a keezer. Whichever would be more useful.
 
I guess you'd be better off brewing next to it, too, or faff about transferring wort. I can just manage to carry a full 29L kegmenter down the stairs to our basement. The full 50Ls I leave for the wife to carry down. Full conicals look a bit awkward to carry anywhere.
 
I guess you'd be better off brewing next to it, too, or faff about transferring wort. I can just manage to carry a full 29L kegmenter down the stairs to our basement. The full 50Ls I leave for the wife to carry down. Full conicals look a bit awkward to carry anywhere.
I am absolutely certain it will suck to carry but I don’t mind that. It has nice big handles opposed to the ss brew bucket I have been using.
 
With a 4" TC lid the options are almost endless.

View attachment 749373

Edit: You can put one of these together yourself and save some money. I don't use one myself. I only use pellet hops for lagers. Anyway, here's a better answer to your question:

I'm still at a loss to understand how I could attach something like the above and then be able to transfer out to another container without opening up to re-insert the floating dip tube with only a single opening. Am I missing something?
 
I'm still at a loss to understand how I could attach something like the above and then be able to transfer out to another container without opening up to re-insert the floating dip tube with only a single opening. Am I missing something?
You'd use something like that if your aim was oxygen-free dry hopping, apparently. I think that was your initial question. In most cases, yes, you might have to swap the lid for another one to pressure transfer, which is pretty straightforward to do. Unless you had lids like mine, which have 3-4 ports, and can do a number of things associated with ball-lock posts, e.g. gas in, gas out, liquid out, thermowell, and an off-centred 1.5" TC ferrule.
 
I haven't thought too much about it. I always thought it was a cost I couldn't justify. But.....my company is offering me $1000 to purchase my anniversary gift.
I went to the spike store and quickly made up a $995 CF5 bundle - comprising of most of the bells and whistles I would need.
Do you love your conical? Other suggestions.
"Other suggestions" Have you moved to kegging from bottling yet? If you have not I would use your company's money to get set up with a kegging and kegerator or keezer/beer fridge scenario.
 
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Have you moved to kegging from bottling yet? If you have not I would use your company's money to get set up with a kegging and kegerator or keezer/beer fridge scenario.
I've been kegging since the 1990's. I have a scratch and dent fridge that I converted into a 2 tap kegerator back then too. A few years ago I went to stainless steel anvil fermenter and a dedicated fermentation chamber, but I have issues keeping my NEIPAs free from oxygen when I dry hop after cold crashing.
Also I don't think they want me to give them a list of 50 items to purchase - also I'm certain they only want to deal with one company. In the past they forced us to choose between custom fit golf clubs or jewelry. I'm really glad they opened it up now.
 
On the home brew scale I use fermonsters with just a simple blow off tube into a pitcher of starsan. When I cold crash it starts to suck the starsan up the tube so I keep a fairly close eye on it ( if you don't you end up with starsan in your beer ). Then I will take my small CO2 tank with the gas ball lock off and flood the side of the bung as I crack it to let the CO2 get sucked into the fermenter instead of O2. You have to do this a few times before the suck back stops. I also position the tube to trickle CO2 into the fermenter when racking. I've only had one occasion where I dropped the hose when racking and had no choice but to proceed and yes that beer was oxidized-darker than normal and muddled but drinkable, but all the others have remained fine for over a month in the keg, but not all last that long. Lots of ways to accomplish things. I didn't want to spend the money to convert these fermonsters into a totally closed system like @Dgallo has shown how to do because I've been making NEIPA's without issue anyway except the one I mentioned. That doesn't mean the other way isn't better or less risk of O2 ingress. I would love to have a bunch of little stainless steel conical fermenters but my money is going into big equipment. I say go for it.

Edit: When I dry hop I also have the CO2 above my funnel as the hops go in and I thoroughly flood the head space after.
 
I guess conical fanboys could wear a glycol jacket
... i'm too big to fit into my cf5 jacket. Anyone have a spare 1bbl size?
My biggest concern with a conical would be having access to a floor drain very close in the event of any mishap. All the liquid can come out the bottom.
Yeah- my cf5 sits inside the (small) home we rent. I have it on a cheap Harbor Freight cart. There is a 5" lip on the top, so any leaks should be contained. I dump trub via the bottom port through a 1" hose into a 5 gal bucket. After racking there is always some mess to clean up, but it's an easy wipe down. I wish i had a dedicated room with floor drain though!!

To the OP: go for it! You will enjoy it. But be prepared to want cooling options soon: glycol chiller most likely. Or a fridge.

Making beer should be fun.
 
... i'm too big to fit into my cf5 jacket. Anyone have a spare 1bbl size?

Yeah- my cf5 sits inside the (small) home we rent. I have it on a cheap Harbor Freight cart. There is a 5" lip on the top, so any leaks should be contained. I dump trub via the bottom port through a 1" hose into a 5 gal bucket. After racking there is always some mess to clean up, but it's an easy wipe down. I wish i had a dedicated room with floor drain though!!

To the OP: go for it! You will enjoy it. But be prepared to want cooling options soon: glycol chiller most likely. Or a fridge.

Making beer should be fun.
And with a non conical, i.e, plastic bucket, straight sided, flat bottom fermenter, you'll have a quart left on the bottom if the valve fails.
 
I refuse to accept conicals as practical at home-brew level. For the budget you'd be so much better off buying 3 kegmenters, IMHO.

When it comes down to it, you do not have homebrew at all. You can get plenty of good quality beer, cheaper and easier than homebrewing.

It is all comes down to practicality and what the heart wants.

Do you have the spare finances that allow you to indulge in a conical? Do you have the space to use a conical? Do you have a commitment to the hobby that a conical is a good move?

No matter what equipment and process you use for homebrewing, there is probably somebody out there is that is doing more economically less and lighter equipment.
 
I haven't thought too much about it. I always thought it was a cost I couldn't justify. But.....my company is offering me $1000 to purchase my anniversary gift.
I went to the spike store and quickly made up a $995 CF5 bundle - comprising of most of the bells and whistles I would need.
Do you love your conical? Other suggestions.

I just bought a pair of fully loaded CF10s this fall. Love them. Do I make better beer than with a bucket? Hard to say. Did I enjoy pouring a cold crashed and fully carbonated beer right off the fermenter last night? Yes.

I was going to buy CF5 but a lot of people suggested going to the CF10s. I switched to 6 gallon batches when I did that and can the extra gallon for friends. I figure I can go up to 7-8 gallons with my brewhouse if I want more to can. One really nice thing is I've yet to have any krausen reach the lid which makes for far easier cleaning.
 
Those who think it's a waste, how about a canner? Cannular at MoreBeer is $760 for the top of the line, throw in some cans and I'm at my $1000.
 
Those who think it's a waste, how about a canner? Cannular at MoreBeer is $760 for the top of the line, throw in some cans and I'm at my $1000.
No, an even bigger waste of money. I don't buy into canning home brew either. Both conicals and canning were developed in brewing to increase profit for commercial breweries. The application at home-brew scales is limited, IMHO. Having money to burn still requires reasoned justification to spend. What about 2 kegmenters and an EasyDens hydrometer? I've been playing with my new EasyDens all day and it's the dog's bollocks. A quality instrument any home brewer would get a lot of mileage for his buck.
 
No, an even bigger waste of money. I don't buy into canning home brew either.


damn man, you're starting to just sound like you're no fun! ;) :mug:


i mean i just fill up 1 liter empty coke battles, with a 1/4" tube out of my picnic tap...but some people like toys. i don't see anything wrong with that.


in all seriousness, if my company said what do you want for $1000, i'd say some treasury bonds!
 
damn man, you're starting to just sound like you're no fun! ;) :mug:


i mean i just fill up 1 liter empty coke battles, with a 1/4" tube out of my picnic tap...but some people like toys. i don't see anything wrong with that.


in all seriousness, if my company said what do you want for $1000, i'd say some treasury bonds!
replying to the T bond part
They want it to be a gift, something you normally wouldn't get. Until a few years ago you could get golf clubs at a high end fitter, jewelry from a high end jeweler (both local) or a gift from Tiffany's.
 
They want it to be a gift, something you normally wouldn't get. Until a few years ago you could get golf clubs at a high end fitter, jewelry from a high end jeweler (both local) or a gift from Tiffany's.



well man, i've been wanting a few grand of treasury bonds for over a decade! wouldn't that be a neat gift? ;) but seriously, the only brew thing that i hold off on, is a pump system to make it 'light weight'.....
 
Those who think it's a waste, how about a canner? Cannular at MoreBeer is $760 for the top of the line, throw in some cans and I'm at my $1000.
The last time I looked, an empty can with a lid, purchased in realistic quantities cost about 50 cents.
That was enough to turn me off the idea.
 
The last time I looked, an empty can with a lid, purchased in realistic quantities cost about 50 cents.
That was enough to turn me off the idea.
I'm sure I won't get a canner now that I think about it more...or is that drink about it...either way.
 
Those who think it's a waste, how about a canner? Cannular at MoreBeer is $760 for the top of the line, throw in some cans and I'm at my $1000.

I just bought an Oktober SL1 this spring. Love it. Does a can make my beer better than a bottle? Hard to say. Did I enjoy handing out 4 packs to all my friends? Yes In fact I just ordered more cans today--stocking up with cans getting hard to get and more expensive.

It sounds like you've got a gift for a significant anniversary. I say spend it on something you will enjoy.
 
I bought a stainless conical with integrated cooling coil in the lid for better fermentation temp control.
The goal was to harvest yeast for reuse but I rarely do that, mostly brewing 8% Belgian styles that put the yeast through a tough time. And with every starter made , I make 3-4 vials and freeze for a future brew. So the best part of the conical for me is the better temp control pumping chilled water through the immersed coil, not the ability to harvest yeast.
But I would still buy one again!!

If you don’t have one, What about a kegging setup with kegerator?

Or something like this:
https://brouwland.com/en/electric-b...-deal-brew-monk-45-l-vergistingsvat-55-l.html
 
With a 4" TC lid the options are almost endless.

View attachment 749373

Edit: You can put one of these together yourself and save some money. I don't use one myself. I only use pellet hops for lagers. Anyway, here's a better answer to your question:


Do you need a license from the DEA to install that?

I'd say think about the 'running costs'. They're superfluous mainly and simply do not translate into better beer.

View attachment 749413
Do you need a license from NASA to run that?
 
Do you need a license from NASA to install that?
iu-21.jpeg


😬
 
The last time I looked, an empty can with a lid, purchased in realistic quantities cost about 50 cents.
That was enough to turn me off the idea.
We’ve been hearing about a national aluminum shortage for a year, too. Supposedly caused by the latest round of cheap canning machines that allow every brewery and microbrewery to be canning beer now. The big boys have responded by putting more of their beer in cans. Along with the rise of hard seltzer, which is all cans.

And bottling is bad enough, but how exactly do you can beer without major oxygen exposure that everybody is so concerned about?
 
I love my conical too. I'd only suggest you at least consider the CF10 since its not that much more and increases your batch size potential.

I will say that those kegmenters look interesting too. But I'm not too sure how I'd set it up with a thermowell and be able to take gravity samples.

Having a conical has been great. You wont be disappointed!
 
But I'm not too sure how I'd set it up with a thermowell and be able to take gravity samples.

Allow me.

IMG_0577.JPG


IMG_0578.JPG

The flare is the key. It's a 'dip tube' essentially. The shim guarantees it stays put. My level of 'rocket science'.

Edit: I've tested it at about 50 psi. 30 psi is about the highest I set. So it works for me. Especially as there's nothing like it on the market. Make it yourself ;)
 
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replying to the T bond part
They want it to be a gift, something you normally wouldn't get. Until a few years ago you could get golf clubs at a high end fitter, jewelry from a high end jeweler (both local) or a gift from Tiffany's.
I don’t play golf and the only jewelry I ever wear is my wedding ring. So that would turn into a nice gift for my wife if it was me and those were my only choices. Got a big anniversary coming up or anything?
 
For the OP... I have two Spike CF10 fermenters along with the goodies to fully utilize them. Chill coils in both and I purchased the heating pads recently since the room I ferment in is getting on the cooler side this winter. With the glycol chiller (IceMaster Max4 currently) I can easily get the batch to both fermenting temperatures (when the room is warmer), chilled for yeast harvesting, or chill even further to carbonate. All in fermenter. NOT moving the beer until it's ready for packaging is a great thing IME.

I'm waiting for Brewers Hardware to have one of their 15 gallon jacketed conical fermenters available for purchase. I want to see how they differ in real world use cases. Both have the 2" bottom dump valve for either yeast harvest or infusion. I have a yeast brink now, so I can do a sanitary yeast infusion into the wort post chill.

For canning, I have the Cannular Pro machine and it kicks the crap out of the manual version. I had issues getting good crimps with the manual, but not even a single issue with the pro model.

I have the original Tapcooler filler setup for filling cans direct from conical. No faucets or anything needed. I simply place a TC to liquid ball lock post fitting onto the racking arm valve on the conical and get to it. I do fill up a keg before canning the rest of the batch (I use either 2.5 or 3 gallon kegs, canning the balance of a 7-8 gallon batch).

For the record, I was using kegmenters for years. Last year I had built a fermentation chamber to better control temperatures. No way could I get the thing to carbonating temperatures, even if I wanted to. Not to mention the thing was large, to hold two to three fermenters, and took up a significant amount of space in the room I ferment in. I would have to shift it around to either get to things, or do projects. With the glycol chiller (on wheels) plus conical fermenters (also on wheels) I can move any one of those items to make it a non-issue. I wouldn't get another conical without wheels. Plus I'd make damned sure I have enough room to attach the yeast brink to the bottom for either yeast harvest or infusion. The short legs from Spike do the job there. The Brewers Hardware conical uses TC pipe for leg extensions.

With the changes I made, with the shift to using conicals, I can now have a batch go from grain to glass in two to three weeks. Depending on the recipe of course. With carbonating in conical, after fermentation is finished is a great thing. I do ferment under pressure, but typically only let it build to about 5psi. That's because of how the yeast will work at those pressure levels. I use one strain for the majority of my brews now (was using two, but changed earlier this year). I have an imperial stout on deck that will be using a different yeast.
 
For the OP... I have two Spike CF10 fermenters along with the goodies to fully utilize them. Chill coils in both and I purchased the heating pads recently since the room I ferment in is getting on the cooler side this winter. With the glycol chiller (IceMaster Max4 currently) I can easily get the batch to both fermenting temperatures (when the room is warmer), chilled for yeast harvesting, or chill even further to carbonate. All in fermenter. NOT moving the beer until it's ready for packaging is a great thing IME.

I'm waiting for Brewers Hardware to have one of their 15 gallon jacketed conical fermenters available for purchase. I want to see how they differ in real world use cases. Both have the 2" bottom dump valve for either yeast harvest or infusion. I have a yeast brink now, so I can do a sanitary yeast infusion into the wort post chill.

For canning, I have the Cannular Pro machine and it kicks the crap out of the manual version. I had issues getting good crimps with the manual, but not even a single issue with the pro model.

I have the original Tapcooler filler setup for filling cans direct from conical. No faucets or anything needed. I simply place a TC to liquid ball lock post fitting onto the racking arm valve on the conical and get to it. I do fill up a keg before canning the rest of the batch (I use either 2.5 or 3 gallon kegs, canning the balance of a 7-8 gallon batch).

For the record, I was using kegmenters for years. Last year I had built a fermentation chamber to better control temperatures. No way could I get the thing to carbonating temperatures, even if I wanted to. Not to mention the thing was large, to hold two to three fermenters, and took up a significant amount of space in the room I ferment in. I would have to shift it around to either get to things, or do projects. With the glycol chiller (on wheels) plus conical fermenters (also on wheels) I can move any one of those items to make it a non-issue. I wouldn't get another conical without wheels. Plus I'd make damned sure I have enough room to attach the yeast brink to the bottom for either yeast harvest or infusion. The short legs from Spike do the job there. The Brewers Hardware conical uses TC pipe for leg extensions.

With the changes I made, with the shift to using conicals, I can now have a batch go from grain to glass in two to three weeks. Depending on the recipe of course. With carbonating in conical, after fermentation is finished is a great thing. I do ferment under pressure, but typically only let it build to about 5psi. That's because of how the yeast will work at those pressure levels. I use one strain for the majority of my brews now (was using two, but changed earlier this year). I have an imperial stout on deck that will be using a different yeast.
Thanks for your thoughts. You have all the toys.

Right now I'm leaning towards the Spike Flex+ since I brew in my garage (propane and steam venting), but ferment and dispense in my basement, I need to transport my wort downstairs. I think the Spike Flex+ with most of the bells and whistles will fit the bill and I cobbled together a cart for $1001 and I think the only thing I'm missing is a 12"x1.5" TC Spool Tube12"x1.5" TC Spool Tube to allow no oxygen dry hop under pressure. I figure if a 5" x 1.5" sight glass holds 3 oz of hop pellets (not enough), then 12" should hold 8 oz which is a few more than I've been doing and I don't have to fiddle with reducers or using the 4" port that will be occupied by a cooling coil.

I don't have a floor drain and I haven't been harvesting yeast (maybe when I retire) so I don't really need the CF5, and I don't need to drink any more than I'm drinking now, and I like trying new recipes, so I'll stay with the 5-7 gallon size. Currently I have an Anvil Bucket fermenter in a dedicated fermentation chamber as my only fermenter, so ....
 
I pump wort through cooler and send in a tube downstairs to fermentor. If what you have to carry is a little much for stairs, and you want ideas, I can post a photo of my wort transfer to cellar.
 
For the OP... I have two Spike CF10 fermenters along with the goodies to fully utilize them. Chill coils in both and I purchased the heating pads recently since the room I ferment in is getting on the cooler side this winter. With the glycol chiller (IceMaster Max4 currently) I can easily get the batch to both fermenting temperatures (when the room is warmer), chilled for yeast harvesting, or chill even further to carbonate. All in fermenter. NOT moving the beer until it's ready for packaging is a great thing IME.

I'm waiting for Brewers Hardware to have one of their 15 gallon jacketed conical fermenters available for purchase. I want to see how they differ in real world use cases. Both have the 2" bottom dump valve for either yeast harvest or infusion. I have a yeast brink now, so I can do a sanitary yeast infusion into the wort post chill.

For canning, I have the Cannular Pro machine and it kicks the crap out of the manual version. I had issues getting good crimps with the manual, but not even a single issue with the pro model.

I have the original Tapcooler filler setup for filling cans direct from conical. No faucets or anything needed. I simply place a TC to liquid ball lock post fitting onto the racking arm valve on the conical and get to it. I do fill up a keg before canning the rest of the batch (I use either 2.5 or 3 gallon kegs, canning the balance of a 7-8 gallon batch).

For the record, I was using kegmenters for years. Last year I had built a fermentation chamber to better control temperatures. No way could I get the thing to carbonating temperatures, even if I wanted to. Not to mention the thing was large, to hold two to three fermenters, and took up a significant amount of space in the room I ferment in. I would have to shift it around to either get to things, or do projects. With the glycol chiller (on wheels) plus conical fermenters (also on wheels) I can move any one of those items to make it a non-issue. I wouldn't get another conical without wheels. Plus I'd make damned sure I have enough room to attach the yeast brink to the bottom for either yeast harvest or infusion. The short legs from Spike do the job there. The Brewers Hardware conical uses TC pipe for leg extensions.

With the changes I made, with the shift to using conicals, I can now have a batch go from grain to glass in two to three weeks. Depending on the recipe of course. With carbonating in conical, after fermentation is finished is a great thing. I do ferment under pressure, but typically only let it build to about 5psi. That's because of how the yeast will work at those pressure levels. I use one strain for the majority of my brews now (was using two, but changed earlier this year). I have an imperial stout on deck that will be using a different yeast.
Yes, kegmenters are relatively wide. They're basically stackable beer kegs with 4" TC ferrules. A big fridge is definitely useful. I think I could get at least 2 stacks of 3 in my corner fridge.
IMG_0436.JPG

Or 3 in a medium sized keezer.
IMG_0184.JPG


I think the pressure rating is much higher than most conicals. They've transformed how I brew. If I need to, I can go from grain to glass* within a week to 10 days and little more than 2 weeks for a decent pilsner. Being kegs they are great for serving too. I find them easier the clean than my plastic Speidel 30L FVs. The design is refreshingly simple and currently works for me. I don't think they can be matched for either the money or their functionality. To get a conical that can do what a kegmenter can is going to cost considerably more than doogie's budget. At the moment I have more than enough space to accommodate my brewing adventures in the basement. If we every sold up and moved to a smaller place, which we might in a few years, then I'd consider a conical due to the smaller footprint required for brewing. This is the only genuine benefit I see in conicals.

Edit: *Using authentic yeast strains to match the bee style. Not kveik!
 
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We have 6 conical stainless fermenters, 3 of which are the 8 gallon size from Delta Brewing.
They are nice, easy to clean, and yeast harvesting is a snap with the bottom drain.
These will also last a lifetime. And...they do not pick up odors as plastic ferment vessels will.
 
Thanks for your thoughts. You have all the toys.

Right now I'm leaning towards the Spike Flex+ since I brew in my garage (propane and steam venting), but ferment and dispense in my basement, I need to transport my wort downstairs. I think the Spike Flex+ with most of the bells and whistles will fit the bill and I cobbled together a cart for $1001 and I think the only thing I'm missing is a 12"x1.5" TC Spool Tube12"x1.5" TC Spool Tube to allow no oxygen dry hop under pressure. I figure if a 5" x 1.5" sight glass holds 3 oz of hop pellets (not enough), then 12" should hold 8 oz which is a few more than I've been doing and I don't have to fiddle with reducers or using the 4" port that will be occupied by a cooling coil.

I don't have a floor drain and I haven't been harvesting yeast (maybe when I retire) so I don't really need the CF5, and I don't need to drink any more than I'm drinking now, and I like trying new recipes, so I'll stay with the 5-7 gallon size. Currently I have an Anvil Bucket fermenter in a dedicated fermentation chamber as my only fermenter, so ....
I have a 1-1/2" TC sight glass that was crammed with 3oz of hop pellets. I wouldn't advise trying that much in that size sight glass. I also do the CO2 purged dry hop addition method with this. IME, 2oz of hops gives my ales a very nice additional hop flavor and aroma where I want it. YMMV.

@McMullan Absolutely zero chance in hell I'm lifting a filled kegmenter into a chest freezer. I was able to get my tall 1/4 barrel kegmenter into the fermentation chamber. That's with the top opening (gas springs) as well as the end being a door for easier access. The time we used the 1/2 barrel kegmenter (for a 12 gallon end volume batch) was not something I'll willingly repeat. The ease of moving the conical fermenters (since they're on wheels) makes it a slam dunk. Plus, I brew alone these days so everything has to be setup with that in mind. I have the can filling/sealing system setup on a rolling wire mesh cart (stainless) so that everything is right next to each other. The majority of my changes, over the past year or so, have all been geared towards making the process easier on myself. Including going electric for the HLT and BK, along with a very nice control panel mounted to the brew stand.

My current brewing and fermenting areas are all on the same floor/level. When I move (hopefully this coming year) I'll be looking to do the same kind of setup. Since I use electric, along with a steam condensing lid, I don't have to brew in the garage, or outside. If I end up brewing in a room that doesn't drain to the outside, I'll look to put in a dry well (at the very least) and/or floor drain to take care of that. IME, with electric you have a LOT more options for where you can brew safely. With the steam condenser lid options available, that means you don't need to invest a ton of money into a hood setup.
 
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