confused about converting all grain recipes

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ukulele01

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Hello. I am a relative beginner. I am confused about how to use specialty grains. I have search the archives but have not been able to find an answer to my question. Recently I began steeping small amounts of specialty grains and adding them to light colored pre-hopped kits (mostly Coopers) to make some styles that are not available as kits. The two recipes I have made thus far were specifically designed to be made with a kit, but I would like to branch out. I have been looking at all grain recipes and wondering how to adapt them for use with pre-hopped kits. At first I thought I could use use them weight-for-weight, but this chart in John Palmer's "How to Brew" has me wondering:

http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-4-1.html

It shows that you get less efficient extraction when steeping specialty grains as opposed to mashing, and that it varies quite a bit from one specialty grain to the other. For example, steeping pale crystal is 75% efficient as mashing, medium crystal, chocolate malt are 62-63%, dark crystal 57%, but roasted barley and black malt are 95% as efficient, or almost as good as mashing. If you stick to medium crystal, chocolate, and dark crystal, which are all around the 60% mark (indeed my very basic brewing software assumes a 60% extraction rate) using them weight-for-weight is not much of an issue; even if the brew is less flavorful, the grains will be in a similar proportion to what they were in the all-grain recipe, so the result should be balanced. But what about if a recipe calls for a combo of pale crystal and chocolate malt, won't it be sweeter than intended? And what about if a recipe calls for medium crystal and roasted barley or black patent malt, won't it turn out a lot roaster than intended? Here is a recipe for an Old Slug Porter clone from BYO magazine that I am interested in making:

http://byo.com/porter/item/2096-rch-old-slug-porter-clone

It calls for 300gm of black patent malt and 230gm of crystal malt 150L.

I took a look at the extract version of this recipe, which was right below it, and it asked for a mini-mash. I am not interested in doing a mini-mash. Should I be grossing up the amount of dark crystal (I will have to substitute 120L as I can't get 150L), which is extracted very poorly by steeping, so as to keep it in balance with the black malt, which is extracted very well by steeping? Thank you.
 
Been doing extract brews for a little under a year now and one thing that has really helped me is this page:

http://beersmith.com/grain-list/

Pay special attention to the must mash section. Basically anything on this page that has no for must mash is ok for extract brews. That said, I've noticed there is SOME flexibility there (I recently did an extract brew with some victory malt, for example) but having said that it's a pretty good guide to stick to.

That said, I think you might be over thinking this one a bit. If it were me, my extract version of your recipe would be something like this:


6 lbs DME (or LME)
5 ounces black patent malt
10 ounces crystal 120
1.7 AAU East Kent Goldings hops (60 mins) (0.33 oz./9.4 kg of 5% alpha acids)
1.7 AAU Fuggles hops (60 mins) (0.33 oz./9.4 g of 5.25% alpha acids)
1.7 AAU East Kent Goldings hops (20 mins) (0.33 oz./9.4 kg of 5% alpha acids)
1.7 AAU Fuggles hops (20 mins) (0.33 oz./9.4 g of 5.25% alpha acids)
Lallemand Nottingham ale yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

On another note, if you are looking to branch out a bit I'd also consider investing in a good brew kettle, primary, and secondary and getting your own ingredients rather than going with pre-hopped kits.
 
Been doing extract brews for a little under a year now and one thing that has really helped me is this page:

http://beersmith.com/grain-list/

Pay special attention to the must mash section. Basically anything on this page that has no for must mash is ok for extract brews. That said, I've noticed there is SOME flexibility there (I recently did an extract brew with some victory malt, for example) but having said that it's a pretty good guide to stick to.

That said, I think you might be over thinking this one a bit. If it were me, my extract version of your recipe would be something like this:


6 lbs DME (or LME)
5 ounces black patent malt
10 ounces crystal 120
1.7 AAU East Kent Goldings hops (60 mins) (0.33 oz./9.4 kg of 5% alpha acids)
1.7 AAU Fuggles hops (60 mins) (0.33 oz./9.4 g of 5.25% alpha acids)
1.7 AAU East Kent Goldings hops (20 mins) (0.33 oz./9.4 kg of 5% alpha acids)
1.7 AAU Fuggles hops (20 mins) (0.33 oz./9.4 g of 5.25% alpha acids)
Lallemand Nottingham ale yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

On another note, if you are looking to branch out a bit I'd also consider investing in a good brew kettle, primary, and secondary and getting your own ingredients rather than going with pre-hopped kits.

Thanks for your reply Konn. I could not understand why the extract version of the recipe called for a mini-mash either. Regarding your suggestion for 10 ounces of C120L to go with the 5 ounces of black patent, it makes sense to me that one should substantially increase it because of the whole decreased extraction rate, but I don't understand how you came to these numbers. Please explain as I am trying to learn.
 
If you are looking to branch out I would start by doing four pound partial mashes. There is an excellent article on this at Brew Your Own here:
https://byo.com/stories/item/507-countertop-partial-mashing

It adds a little more time but the results are worth it.

In addition, use a recipe calculator such as the one offered by Brewer's Friend. Makes life a whole lot simpler.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
If you are looking to branch out I would start by doing four pound partial mashes. There is an excellent article on this at Brew Your Own here:
https://byo.com/stories/item/507-countertop-partial-mashing

It adds a little more time but the results are worth it.

In addition, use a recipe calculator such as the one offered by Brewer's Friend. Makes life a whole lot simpler.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Thanks for those links flatlanderHQ, they are both very helpful. I see the Brewer's Friend recipe calculator assumes steeping grains is only 25% efficient....Some folks say it is better to cold steep roasted grains, for smoother flavour, so I have also been checking into that. As an experiment I took 1/8c of roasted barley and "cold" steeped it in 1c of water for 21 hours. I also hot steeped another 1/8c in 1c of 151F water. Then I took FG readings: the cold steeped one was 1.012, the hot steeped one 1.004. I repeated the hot steeping experiment with 1/8c of crystal 60L in 1c water and got a FG of 1.006, so the Brewer's Friend calculator assumption of 25% is probably not far off the mark. That is probably why the extract version of the Old Slug Porter recipe called for a mini-mash. It is comparable to the counter-top method. This experiment has convinced me that I need to start mini-mashing, especially in cases where the recipe calls for large amounts of specialty grains. Although I liked the flavour of the cold steeped roasted barley better than the hot steeped, I probably would not bother with it if I am doing a mini-mash.
 
For most recipes, it is really easy to convert from AG to Extract. Just keep all of the specialty grains the same. Steep them in 160 degree water for 30 minutes. Use light extract (or pilsner if that is the base grain) in place of the base grain. Keep the hop schedule the same. Keep the fermentation schedule the same.

If you follow the links above, you'll see there are a few specialty malts that must be mashed. A few of those can now be found as extract - eg rye extract - but most cannot. One of the advantages of AG over extract is the greater range of ingredients/flavors though, so you won't be able to follow every AG recipe exactly.

There are lots of online companies (midwest supplies, northern brewer, morebeer etc) that offer extract kits that are a little more advanced than coopers. Those are a good starting place if you are just starting to learn the process.
 

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