Welcome to HBT!
Cold crash only after you're sure fermentation has finished.
How do you know it's finished?
When all signs of fermentation have ceased, take a hydrometer sample and another one 3 days later. If they are the same and it's close to your expected FG, fermentation is (usually) done.
At that point it's generally deemed safe to package/bottle.
You may want to clarify the beer a bit more, before bottling. Cold crash the beer first before adding the dissolved gelatin, no need to stir, although you could give the top a gentle one. Let it do its work for a few days (4-7). Repeat if needed.
The closer you can keep it to 32F the better and faster it clears, but ~36F works fine too. Make sure it doesn't freeze up!
Omit secondaries, they're not needed. Everything will sink to the bottom after a rest period leaving clear beer on top. Cold crashing speeds that process up, gelatin helps too, but is not always needed.
Rack or siphon the clear beer into your bottling bucket with priming solution. Prevent sucking air, and any splashing, as that will aerate your beer and oxidize it over time, which is bad.
When racking or siphoning, start from the middle area of your fermenter, half way between the trub layer and the top of the beer level. As the beer level drops, lower the cane slowly.
Once you get to the last few inches of beer left, tilt the fermenter toward one side to keep the well from which you're siphoning deep. Again beware of losing prime and sucking air, keeping the bottom of the cane under the beer level at all times.
Right before or when you see yeast/trub being sucked up, pull the tubing out of your bottling bucket, to prevent air gurgling through it.
Give the bottling bucket a very slow and gentle stir to distribute the sugar solution then bottle away.
Notes:
- If you're using a racking cane, one of those flexible rubber carboy caps with those 2 "teets" is recommended, it holds your racking cane in place. You can start the siphon by blowing air in through the 2nd opening.
- Using an inverter tippy on the bottom of your racking cane or siphon pulls beer in from the top rather than the bottom, so it disturbs the trub layer far less.
- It helps to have an extra set of hands available when racking, especially when you're not used to the process yet.
- You can always rehearse with a carboy or bucket of water.
- Set your carboy/fermenter on a slightly damp towel or washcloth, so it won't slide.
- Have a rolled up towel ready to wedge under the carboy/fermenter when tilting it, toward the end.
- Wet, damp, condensated carboys are very slippery. Be careful, they can cause a big mess and serious injury when they break (large, sharp, glass shards). Plastic (PET) carboys are much safer as are plastic (#2) buckets, which come with a handle.