Co2 leaking from somewhere

[urg8rb8]

I pressurized the setup and set the low side to like 50psi and then shutoff the main co2 tank. After a few hours the high side pressure gauge will drop from like 70psi to 60psi.

If I redo the experiment and turn off the ball valve coming off the regulator to the keg, then the high pressure gauge doesn't budge and there is no indication of a leak.

Where could the leak be? Where is the leak not?

Also, the setup is not hooked up to the keg.

 

[myndflyte]

I guess I don't see it as a surprise that when you turn off the CO2 tank, the high pressure gauge drops. If you just leave the tank open and everything open to the kegs, does the high pressure gauge drop quickly? Like a noticeable amount in 24 hours? If not, then I'd say you don't have a leak.

 

[urg8rb8]

I guess I don't see it as a surprise that when you turn off the CO2 tank, the high pressure gauge drops. If you just leave the tank open and everything open to the kegs, does the high pressure gauge drop quickly? Like a noticeable amount in 24 hours? If not, then I'd say you don't have a leak.

I just added this info above... But I don't have the setup hooked up to the keg. I don't believe it should be leaking anywhere.

 

[SanPancho]

Disconnect/shutoff everything. Start with just the tank and the regulator. Up to like 30-40-50 then close the tank. Check back in hour or two.

Then move on to the gas lines and quick disconnects. Repeat. Then to kegs.

Basically you start at the tank and move down the line. Takes more time but makes it easier to diagnose and fix.

 

[jr72023]

A simple leak check can be done using the liquid used to blow bubbles. Get a small bottle and apply the liquid to all connections while the system is under pressure. When you get to the leak it will be apparent. Shouldn't take but a minute to find the culprit.

Hope this helps.

 

[GPP33]

Your high side pressure should be way above 70psi. If it's hooked to a keg the CO2 will go into solution and decrease the pressure, if it isn't then you have a leak. Use SanPancho's technique to figure out the offending connection and then jr72023's technique to pin point and correct it. Should be pretty straightforward unless you have multiple regulators/manifolds, then it can get complex. I have 4 regulators, 3 manifolds and 7 lines, I was very relieved when I did a pressure test and it held.

 

[urg8rb8]

Your high side pressure should be way above 70psi. If it's hooked to a keg the CO2 will go into solution and decrease the pressure, if it isn't then you have a leak. Use SanPancho's technique to figure out the offending connection and then jr72023's technique to pin point and correct it. Should be pretty straightforward unless you have multiple regulators/manifolds, then it can get complex. I have 4 regulators, 3 manifolds and 7 lines, I was very relieved when I did a pressure test and it held.

Right now it's not connected to a keg because I want to fix the leak first. It's 70psi because the tank isn't fully charged.

 

[urg8rb8]

Disconnect/shutoff everything. Start with just the tank and the regulator. Up to like 30-40-50 then close the tank. Check back in hour or two.

Then move on to the gas lines and quick disconnects. Repeat. Then to kegs.

Basically you start at the tank and move down the line. Takes more time but makes it easier to diagnose and fix.

I know that when the ball valve (at the output from the regulator) is closed,the high side pressure gauge doesn't budge. It's only when I open that ball valve (while the gas line isn't hooked up to the keg) where the high pressure gauge will show a slow leak.

 

[GPP33]

Right now it's not connected to a keg because I want to fix the leak first. It's 70psi because the tank isn't fully charged.

If it's only at 70psi then your tank is empty, you are running on fumes.

I know that when the ball valve (at the output from the regulator) is closed,the high side pressure gauge doesn't budge. It's only when I open that ball valve (while the gas line isn't hooked up to the keg) where the high pressure gauge will show a slow leak.

If you only have one line it should be pretty easy to track down. Star San bubbles nicely when it gets CO2 pushed through it. Spritz your connections, dip the entire quick disconnect into a jar of water or starsan if spritzing doesn't work.

 

[urg8rb8]

Omg... I'm a complete knucklehead!!! My tank isn't reading 70psi... It's reading 70 bars!!! That's over a 1000 psi!!

 

[urg8rb8]

I figured out where it is leaking!!!

I tried tightening that screw and it won't budge. I then took the screw off, the handle, and the washer behind it. Put some keg lube on the washer and put everything back together and it is still leaking.

Is it common for these things to leak? If so what's the fix for it?

Thanks everyone for helping me diagnosing it!

 

[GPP33]

I'd say not common to leak there but it's interesting to see that it only leaks there when the valve is open. If the keg lube on the o ring trick didn't work then it may be time for a new one. I've never pulled done apart so I'm not sure about the details inside them. They are pretty cheap to replace though.

 

[urg8rb8]

I'd say not common to leak there but it's interesting to see that it only leaks there when the valve is open. If the keg lube on the o ring trick didn't work then it may be time for a new one. I've never pulled done apart so I'm not sure about the details inside them. They are pretty cheap to replace though.

The leak is probably on the keg side of the ball valve. :/ I didnt find any threads of anyone complaining about this issue.

 

[VVbrewery]

Definitely replace it. I don't think they can be disassembled.

 

[GPP33]

The leak is probably on the keg side of the ball valve. :/ I didnt find any threads of anyone complaining about this issue.

It looks like it's coming form the screw. Probably the keg side race leaking back, not sure if you'll find a replacement race for less than a whole new one.

 

[urg8rb8]

Well... I found a beverage shop near my house and gave them a call. Told me they had a new valve for $7. Picked it up, got home, put it on, and it looks like there are no more leaks. I'll see if it holds the pressure all night before I call it an official success!

 

[urg8rb8]

Update on my saga... The new shutoff valve fixed the original leak. However I noticed there was some more leaking when I twisted the hose around. Turns out both ends of the hose where they meet the barbs were leaking a bit. So I cut off a small piece off each end of the hose and applied a new clams... The hose no longer twists about the barbs.

Now to see if there are other leaks.