CO2 Leak - Can I use pipe joint compound?

[Tat2nBrew]

My keezer build is on hold but i did get the temperature controler installed so I could use it with the picnic taps until I get to the fancy wood build. I have a dual regulator, one to carb with and the other leads to a 3 port distribution block. I have only had 2 ball lock kegs in use so far that are probably only 1/4 empty each and I am on my 3rd 10lb CO2 tanks. I know there is a leak but I just can not find it. It is real small but has to be steady. Takes a week or two to drain the tank. I have used soapy water a couple of times now and found nothing. My question is, can I used the paste like pipe joint compound? Would that help seal any leaks or is that just to lubricate threads during tightening? This is driving me nuts and at $30/10lb bottle the beer is getting real expensive.

Thanks,
Marc

 

[Golddiggie]

Turn the pressure up to 30psi on both bodies and then listen for the leak. IME, the higher pressure will make even a tiny/slow leak stand out.

Did you use teflon tape on the threads when you installed hardware? Or did you use the nylon spacers for any fittings that were metal-on-metal contact? Such as swivel nuts to shutoff valves...

 

[jolsen]

My keezer build is on hold but i did get the temperature controler installed so I could use it with the picnic taps until I get to the fancy wood build. I have a dual regulator, one to carb with and the other leads to a 3 port distribution block. I have only had 2 ball lock kegs in use so far that are probably only 1/4 empty each and I am on my 3rd 10lb CO2 tanks. I know there is a leak but I just can not find it. It is real small but has to be steady. Takes a week or two to drain the tank. I have used soapy water a couple of times now and found nothing. My question is, can I used the paste like pipe joint compound? Would that help seal any leaks or is that just to lubricate threads during tightening? This is driving me nuts and at $30/10lb bottle the beer is getting real expensive.

Thanks,
Marc

Pipe thread compound and Teflon is both for lubricating threads, sealing is always in the threads, not in the Teflon or pipe dope. When u soap tested, did u foam the soapy water mix up into bubbles and apply just the bubbles to all joints? That works the best for finding leaks- not the soapy liquid. U will also have to watch each joint for 10-20 sec to see if the foam moves and/or bubbles form.

 

[Tat2nBrew]

With everything about 30psi I did finally find a little bubble action in two spots. This time I tested every joint and and not just those after the regulators.

The first small leak that I found was where the tank valve screws into the tank. I took a little video of it and am expecting the welding store to trade the bottle I have out for a full one at no charge.

The second leak is very small but it is the pressure release valve on one of my kegs. Can those valves be rebuilt or replaced. I am going to try and find another lid from another keg to sanitize and swap out so I can get down to the business of drinking this beer.

Thanks for the tips guys!
Marc

 

[Golddiggie]

If the relief valve is one that is a pull type, or one you can use to release the pressure (not a sacrificial like those on pin lock kegs) then you can replace it. Places like Keg Connection sell the replacement assemblies for those.

 

[Tat2nBrew]

That is good news. After seeing that it was just a threaded piece I pulled it out cleaned it well, sanitized it, coated it with keg lube and I can not hear the leak at all. I took a photo of the gauge and will check it again in a few hours. If it keeps pressure then I will let it go over night and check it again in the morning and daily after that for a while. Hopefully that did the trick but I might order a few of those valves just to have on hand for the future.

Thanks again!
Marc