HELP!!! I'm closed transferring from my conical to dry hop kegs, and struggling to get flow. I think the issue is I'm using 5 PSI, which isn't enough to open the standard poppets on ball lock kegs. Sure, I could clip the springs to reduce the minimum opening pressure, but I'd like something more precise. Anybody know of replacement springs or poppets that are designed to flow @ 2-3 PSI?
Closed Transfer issues @ low pressure
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Rackrunner
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As far as I know, there is no minimum pressure to open the poppets, they are depressed when the connector snaps on. Keep in mind the liquid post is normally for pushing liquid out and have 0 (actually negative) pressure pushing them down when serving.
As a quick sanity check: Are you opening the pressure release valve on the keg? If not the pressure will just balance out after a small amount is transferred. Any significant height difference?
I always use 2-3 PSI when transferring, and have never had any issues
As a quick sanity check: Are you opening the pressure release valve on the keg? If not the pressure will just balance out after a small amount is transferred. Any significant height difference?
I always use 2-3 PSI when transferring, and have never had any issues
Neither pin lock nor ball lock poppets require pressure to open - aside from the mechanical "pressure" provided by the disconnect plunger...
Cheers!
Cheers!
I gravity drain into liquid out post from my big mouth bubbler with no pressure and I don’t have a problem unless there’s a bunch of hops still in suspension. This will clog the poppet. As stated earlier you need to pull the relief valve to allow liquid to flow. TBC, I think we’re all assuming your using the black quick disconnect and not just sticking a hose over the poppet.
lol! Ya know, I reread the OP and I have a feeling that's exactly what was being attempted...
Cheers!
Cheers!
If you are working with gravity (i.e. the keg is below the fermentor), then you should be able to use this method:
1) pressurize both vessels to 10 PSI (assuming your fermentor can hold pressure, don't use this method if it cannot)
2) attach gas to gas on both vessels and let pressure stabilize between both (make sure to flush lines with CO2 first)
3) attach liquid to liquid on both vessels (make sure to flush lines with CO2 first)
4) gently pull the PRV on the receiving vessel and release a little pressure until the liquid starts to flow. Gravity will do the rest of the work and CO2 will be displaced from receving keg into headspace of fermentor
note: this is a great method when doing pressure transfers of carbonated beer
If your fermentor cannot hold pressure, or you can't use gravity then do this:
1) pressurize fermentor to 5-10 PSI depending on pressure rating of fermentor (make sure to flush lines with CO2 first)
2) attach liquid to liquid on both (make sure to flush lines with CO2 first)
3) gently unscrew the PRV on the receiving keg to start the flow
1) pressurize both vessels to 10 PSI (assuming your fermentor can hold pressure, don't use this method if it cannot)
2) attach gas to gas on both vessels and let pressure stabilize between both (make sure to flush lines with CO2 first)
3) attach liquid to liquid on both vessels (make sure to flush lines with CO2 first)
4) gently pull the PRV on the receiving vessel and release a little pressure until the liquid starts to flow. Gravity will do the rest of the work and CO2 will be displaced from receving keg into headspace of fermentor
note: this is a great method when doing pressure transfers of carbonated beer
If your fermentor cannot hold pressure, or you can't use gravity then do this:
1) pressurize fermentor to 5-10 PSI depending on pressure rating of fermentor (make sure to flush lines with CO2 first)
2) attach liquid to liquid on both (make sure to flush lines with CO2 first)
3) gently unscrew the PRV on the receiving keg to start the flow
Thanks guys. Yes, the receiving keg PRV is open. Height difference is minimal, both the keg and the conical are on the floor, so head height is probably 2-3 feet. No hops clogging poppets. Understand no pressure is required to open the poppets (now), but the backpressure seems to come from the receiving keg. My oxygen exposing solution was to remove the TC to ball lock line from the receiving keg, insert a coupler (one of Bobby M's) into the ball lock connector, and then drain liquid with minimal pressure into the opened receiving keg. Seems the issue is within the receiving keg liquid out post & dip tube. I struggle with this every single batch, what could be wrong with my dry hop kegs? I use screens i.e. Scott Janish method.
Take apart your ball lock connectors and clean them well if you haven't already. The only thing I can think of is your have a blockage somewhere in your connector or in the dip tube of your keg. I regularly gravity drain from my anvil bucket into my purged keg through the liquid post with no issues. Consider using an inline filter (I think they are called bouncers) as it doesn't take much to clog those connectors.
str1p3s
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I get clogged poppets when doing a closed transfer. Last time, I disconnected the gas out to fermenter connection and connected a co2 tank and blew the clog back up into the fermenter. Then reconnected the gas out to fermenter connection and continued. I also have a SS mesh over the dip tube to help prevent this, but it still happens every once in a while.
bend your dip tube toward the keg wall - i bent mine so it sits about 1" off the bottom of the keg with my SS braided line filter. you lose a little to the trub/waste, but I can transfer clear beer. never had a clogged poppet. Account for loss in my recipe, extra 1/4ish gallon in.
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