Citri-Lize for Passivation?

[FrankCazabon]

Hi,
I've just got a new stainless steel fermenter and want to passivate it. I've got my hands on this:

Dumond Chemicals, Inc. 2031 Citri-Lize Neutralizer and Mill Glaze Remover, 4 Ounce
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GQ2VXC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_7WNQGJ1CWY3NDAB03GZ8

The instructions on this describe spraying it on, scrubbing with a nylon brush then rinsing the surface after 15-30 minutes with clean water.

From other sources that I've read I should not be rinsing but leave it on to air dry.

Which is correct or are the citri-lize instructions for another process (they talk about lowering the pH level on alkaline stripped surfaces)?

 

[day_trippr]

I'm having trouble understanding what that stuff is, but I have a feeling it's not what you want.
I use ~5% citric acid by weight for passivation - and the used solution is great for cleaning up SS mesh products as well.
There's nothing really "neutralizing" about citric acid on metal.

fwiw, I've read it is recommended to use DI or RO water for the first rinse, presumably to avoid any reactions with the remaining acid that would result in deposits...

Cheers!

 

[FrankCazabon]

Thanks. The package says it's citric acid powder.

 

[day_trippr]

Hah - I didn't look at the actual package, I wasted a couple minutes reading all the irrelevant misleading marketing spiel
You should be good to go. I heat it up to ~160°F and let it do its thing, then drain and rinse with RO water and wipe dry...

Cheers!

 

[Tartan1]

I have read its best to either recirculate or soak as in fully immerse in the citric acid solution to allow the whole surface to be exposed to it for best results. Solution needs to be heated to approx 160F or higher and allowed to be in contact with the surface for a couple of hours. Rinse with clean water afterwards then allow to air dry for minimum 8hrs to allow surface to develope a new layer of protection.

 

[Tartan1]

The instructions on this describe spraying it on, scrubbing with a nylon brush then rinsing the surface after 15-30 minutes with clean water.

From other sources that I've read I should not be rinsing but leave it on to air dry.

I have read its best to either recirculate or soak as in fully immerse in the citric acid solution to allow the whole surface to be exposed to it for best results. Solution needs to be heated to approx 160F or higher and allowed to be in contact with the surface for a couple of hours. Rinse with clean water afterwards then allow to air dry for minimum 8hrs to allow surface to develope a new layer of protection. I'm not certain as to how effective spraying it onto the surface would be as it probably wouldn't be in contact with the surface that long?

 

[day_trippr]

I've never heard of "spray-on" passivation, so I'll have to pass on that one.
I mix up enough to totally fill the vessel - or if something smaller (eg: immersion chiller, or hop spider, etc) to fill the bucket it fits in.

And at 5% that can be a lot of citric acid, so I buy it in bulk https://smile.amazon.com/Milliard-Citric-Acid-Pound-VERIFIED/dp/B00EYFKNL8
Fortunately I haven't had to re-passivate any of my 20g kettles, at ~9 pounds a crack...

Cheers!

 

[FrankCazabon]

Thanks all