Chest Freezer Kegerator Modification

[acroporabrewer]

I current have a Black Frigidaire Chest Freezer 7.2 cu that was converted to a Kegerator several years ago. However, I have had a couple of changes that I am thinking about doing to the freezer. Below is a picture of the Kegerator. It is nothing fancy.



I am going to add a wood collar made out of Oak wood that I have access to. These are 3/4 thick and 7 3/8 wide.

With the collar, I can hold 4 kegs in there (hopefully five) but I will have to keep the CO2 tank on the outside. I'm planning on drilling in one side of the collar and seal the cracks with spay foam insulation.

The current setup is a pain when I have to open the top. Not only do I have to side it out, every time somebody closes the lid beer always comes out of the nozzle. I'm am planning on adding solid bar on top of the freezer that incorporates into a neighboring workbench to the right.

What is the best way to keep the kegerator insulated where the tubes exit the lid? I currently just have it rigged up with spay foam insulation. The problem is that I am not able to remove the tubing for maintenance. I would like to find a solution that will allow me to exit out collar. Something like a shank that connects tubing at both ends? Anybody have any ideas?

 

[icebob]

I drilled holes same size as the tubes, and a dab of silicone on each side of the holes, done deal, just fill it up with full kegs!

 

[day_trippr]

For running gas lines into my keezer and brewery fridges I use 1/4" MFL bulkheads like this one . Makes it easy to remove tubing inside and outside if necessary. You can get these in various lengths from "close" (for going through sheet metal like a freezer lid) to long enough for 2" thick collar...

Cheers!

 

[acroporabrewer]

I drilled holes same size as the tubes, and a dab of silicone on each side of the holes, done deal, just fill it up with full kegs!

Awesome. I might have to go with that route if I cannot find a double threaded shank for the liquid side.

For running gas lines into my keezer and brewery fridges I use 1/4" MFL bulkheads like this one . Makes it easy to remove tubing inside and outside if necessary. You can get these in various lengths from "close" (for going through sheet metal like a freezer lid) to long enough for 2" thick collar...

Cheers!

These are perfect! Thank you sir.

 

[acroporabrewer]

For running gas lines into my keezer and brewery fridges I use 1/4" MFL bulkheads like this one . Makes it easy to remove tubing inside and outside if necessary. You can get these in various lengths from "close" (for going through sheet metal like a freezer lid) to long enough for 2" thick collar...

Cheers!

Thanks for letting me know about these bulkhead. I ordered two from chicompany and they arived today. These are exactly what I was looking for.

I still don't know what t do about the liquid side. I am thinking about using these.

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/Bulkhead-Fitting-5LMR5

 

[rawlus]

For running gas lines into my keezer and brewery fridges I use 1/4" MFL bulkheads like this one . Makes it easy to remove tubing inside and outside if necessary. You can get these in various lengths from "close" (for going through sheet metal like a freezer lid) to long enough for 2" thick collar...

Cheers!

This is exactly what I did as well and I doubt there is a better or cleaner way to do this. I have a gas ball lock connect on the outside so the co2 tank just snaps right on and on the inside I have a flare connector rest screws right onto the flare of the bulkhead and goes to the gas line distribution manifold. No gaps to seal.

 

[rawlus]

Thanks for letting me know about these bulkhead. I ordered two from chicompany and they arived today. These are exactly what I was looking for.

I still don't know what t do about the liquid side. I am thinking about using these.

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/Bulkhead-Fitting-5LMR5

I would not use brass fittings for constant contact with the beer. If you are looking for a way to run beer lines through the lid, I would perhaps look at creating a tubing conduit out of ovc or whatever and run your lines inside that with them lacked inside pipe insulation or something similar. The friction fit between the pipe insulation the the PVC pipe channel should be sufficient. Check out threads where users are going throug walls with the lines, from garage keezer to basement bar. Same approach can be taken. When you need to change lines, you should be able to slide the rigid foam pimple insulation out of the tube that is siloconed into place, replace lines and slide both lines and the pipe insulation back into place.

Another similar approach from Micromatic.com

 

[day_trippr]

Where will the new bar be wrt to the keezer?

Cheers!