That's what I was hoping to do. Is your pump working just as good when the water is boiling? I tested it again yesterday and the water had to cool down for about 5 min before the pump worked normally.I start my pump with about 1 or 2 mins left in the boil to clean everything and never had an issue.
I shorted mine out and blew it unfortunately so switched to a different dc powersupply I salvaged from and old xerox machine being scrapped... havent had any issues with that.Ive been using one of these pumps and the power supply went out today. The light on it cycles on and off, you can hear a capacitor whine with it. Im using one of the supplies similar to the below 24v 3a version. Speed is controlled with a PWM dc motor speed controller.
The first one I got was dead on arrival with the same symptoms. Has anyone else had problems?
https://m.ebay.com/itm/5V-12V-24V-D...hash=item5444647aab:m:mRW8TEiRdl0V3gK_0ViHKSA
sounds like the silicone oring is at fault that seals the head cover... might be worth looking at.I purchased mine from Bayite on Amazon. Had a small leak where the body and the head meet. I had it oriented with the discharge down so it rook me a while to figure out where it was coming from. I responded to the email they sent me asking about my purchase experience. Was expecting a hassle, return, wait, etc. They said this kind of issue is rare and shipped me a new pump ASAP w/o needing to return the old one. Excellent customer service!
bayite BYT-7A015 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Sounds like the motor winding enamel coating melted and shorted from prolonged over-heating...
yes same pumps .. they require 1.8a minimum power... They only use the amperage the Motor needs... You can power them with a 100amp supply and they will run the same as A 3 amp supply you can damage them with a power source capable of more amp than they need.. They do run better with a 3 amp suy than a 2 amp though because I've tried both.. The motor can draw more than 2 amps. And if your using one of those $3 cell phone style wall power adapters many of them don't actually put out the amps they advertise.. so you want to go with a bigger one. They also have a high failure rate compared to theore sophisticated power supplies.Just want to make sure we are talking about same pump. Link below says 48W, 24V 2A, but then says 1.8A max
https://m.ebay.com/itm/24V-Pure-Foo...323554&hash=item440df11eb2:g:HUwAAOSwKWRZ4CF5
Why do you need to recirculate boiling liquid? It can cause cavitation that can damage any pump. As far as sanitation recicirculating the liquid once it's over 170 has the same effect .I was recirculating boiling fluid so that fits the bill. I probably buy a new one for my HERMs when I finish it to recirc in the HLT. I’m going to get a chugger for the boil kettle so I can recirc boiling fluid.
After second thought the output amperage shouldn't matter. That's the max output, but the pump motor only draws 2A.
yes same pumps .. they require 1.8a minimum power... They only use the amperage the Motor needs... You can power them with a 100amp supply and they will run the same as A 3 amp supply you can damage them with a power source capable of more amp than they need.. They do run better with a 3 amp suy than a 2 amp though because I've tried both.. The motor can draw more than 2 amps. And if your using one of those $3 cell phone style wall power adapters many of them don't actually put out the amps they advertise.. so you want to go with a bigger one. They also have a high failure rate compared to theore sophisticated power supplies.
Funny thing was I wrote that yesterday but just forgot to hit submit so it was still in my browser this morning. It could very well have been a faulty one. I had a 24v one that stuck from time to time so I took the impeller/magnet assembly from another 12v one I dropped and snapped the head off. That fixed it so I suspect they did a poor job coating that magnet evenly and it was rubbing.Haha I just realized that and posted right before you did. Dunno what I was thinking before. Haven't had any issues yet with the power supply. Maybe I got a faulty pump? When I removed the motor from the housing the back of it was melted badly too (close to to where the wires go in) so it got hot as hell.
I am assuming these pumps rely on the wort to cool the pump and motor rotor? Once all the trub got into the bearing and magnet it probably locked up due to the friction then over heated. Could have been in this condition for 10+ mins as I started the pump and walked away.
That said what is the best way to strain the trub prior to pump suction? Right now I use a paint strainer bag for all hop additions and a bazooka screen upstream of the pump. The screen is almost always covered in a good bit of trub.
I'm considering installing a pickup tube that takes suction from the side of the kettle. Then cover the tube with a hot water heater SS hose. Maybe a 2ft hose so there is more surface area in case of clogging.
Why do you need to recirculate boiling liquid? It can cause cavitation that can damage any pump. As far as sanitation recicirculating the liquid once it's over 170 has the same effect .
Or do as many do and sterilze after the boil? That's what I've done for years with no issues.. I open my valve and let my wort fill the hose,pump and late chiller about 2 mins before I shut off the element then I start to reciculate through my plate chiller right as I shut off the BK element. Then about a minute later I start chilling... Never had an infection from this ever. Plusthe whole DMs issue isn't a factor till the wort falls below 170 anyway..To sterilize the pump and plate chiller. I want to chill as fast as possible after the boil to limit DMS so I sterilize during the boil. I guess I could sterilize them as the boil is starting then leave them connected the whole time.
What is your workflow for sterilizing the pump and chiller at the end of the boil?
I have never heard of dms "reforming" myself after the boil with the wort is still at near boiling temps.. You realize a lot of Aussies don't even bother chilling anymore and thier beer comes out fine.I want to make sure I understand your comment about DMS. Are you saying as long as you are above 170 that DMS isn’t a problem? I thought it was a problem anytime above 140 when you aren’t driving it off with the boil.
Does anyone have an idea if these tan pumps would be compatible with draft beer line cleaning solution? I have a few of these pumps laying around and thinking of using for recirculating BLC solution.
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