Cheap compact wort pump

Yakima 728
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lustreking said:
I only got around 60 pages into this thread so far, but I was wondering if the following is the same as in the original post.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solar-12V-D...608?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f7c4d9f8



The pictures look the same, and the specs seem the same, and it's a couple bucks cheaper.



Anybody know?
Click to expand...


Yep. Looks like it. That may be a photo of the 24V version though. Augie posted some good links and info just a few pages back that are worth looking at.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=6660853
 
You know, this thread is far from useful anymore. I'd like to suggest that you guys in the know work on a cohesive commentary and make a new post with what works, what doesn't, what to look for when shopping, etc.
 
Weezy said:
You know, this thread is far from useful anymore. I'd like to suggest that you guys in the know work on a cohesive commentary and make a new post with what works, what doesn't, what to look for when shopping, etc.
Click to expand...

And the send it to TX for an article:D
 
If it can't be a group effort, I would like to see Augiedoggy submit an article. He appears to have done the most research on this thread, even though others have taken issue with some of his conclusions.

It would be valuable to have all if all of his comments and links in one place. Then everyone can continue the discussion in the comments.
 
A sticky or article would be cool. Long term results as well. I know several people have abandoned these pumps after a while or they break. Buy more than a couple and the chugger starts to look good..
 
I dropped and broke one last week but besides that I still have all the other 5 pumps in good working order... I think the key is correct voltage and amperage as well as good filtering to prevent the pumps from sucking in grain. thats and not running them dry.
I know for me they work better with my system since I use three which stay connected inline during my whole brewing process since I dont disconnect or move any hoses during my brew process.
 
I just ordered 2 more black pumps and one tan pump since my last black pump stop working correctly. The first pump I bought one used to pump fine for about 3 brewdays, and then it started "surging", then stopping. It would only pump water about 6 inches up the line, drop back down, and then continue this repeating about every 2 seconds. Now the new pumps I ordered are doing exactly the same thing, all 3 of them? Anyone have this problem? I have the pump primed with gravity fed water.
 
I did for the first pump, but I wouldn't think I would need to for the 3 brand new pumps. Maybe I will when I get home from work. If that doesn't work, I'm chucking these and buying another Chugger, I've already spent about $80 on non-working Chinese pumps.
 
You mentioned that you have multiple pumps. I think the black ones need at least 2 amps. I could be wrong. But if you're running multiple pumps on one supply you may be overloading it. The cycling is probably the pwm trying to rectify the voltage issue. Or it's just capping out and dying over and over again. Always start at the power when troubleshooting.
 
Yes it was the power supply. I wasn't running multiple pumps at the same time, but the 2 amp power supply was cycling for some reason as you suggested. I figured if it died, I would have no response from the pump at all, therefore I blamed the pumps. Thanks for the help.
 
Just received my 24v tan pump and pwm controller.

Do I need to ensure the DC polarity is wired correctly? There is a red and a black wire. I assume black is negative. Correct?

My Riorand pwm controller has 2 sets of terminals. The first set is labeled +-, the other labeled (something obscured)1, (something obscured)2. I'm guessing the +- is the input, the 1,2 is the output (motor).

Any machine builders out there want to help educate me a bit?
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424638546.516233.jpg
 
Do you have a meter to check for continuity? Yes the + is always red/ positive with DC ... most of these pwm controllers actually control the negative side by pulsing the voltage. The + and - are likely the power input side. You can test with meter
 
augiedoggy said:
Do you have a meter to check for continuity?
Click to expand...


Not yet, but will be getting a cheap one (on line recommendation?). These builds are starting to get more common for me, and are pretty fun.

I saw one comment that the motor side terminals were labeled M1, M2. How would you verify with the meter?

Btw augie, I found this controller via one of your suggestions in another post. Thanks. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424644831.547978.jpg
 
Using a continuity tester to find ground. It should be common throughout. Then by process of elimination you can imagine which terminal is positive
 
Slow_Day said:
Not yet, but will be getting a cheap one (on line recommendation?). These builds are starting to get more common for me, and are pretty fun.

I saw one comment that the motor side terminals were labeled M1, M2. How would you verify with the meter?

Btw augie, I found this controller via one of your suggestions in another post. Thanks. View attachment 258627
Click to expand...

its very similar to the ones I have used but not exactly the same... That said I may have suggested it for this reason.

Honestly You don't need the meter... just use the + and - for the input and either trace the leads on the board from the positives side to the lead on the output or just guess.. the pump will either work or not work if wired backwards but it wont damage anything... I have done it myself twice when wiring my pump cords.

You can use a meter two ways here that im aware of.... either test for continuity from the + input to the each output to find it and that will tell you which is which or just turn up the pwm controller all the way and put your meter leads on the output terminals . It they are placed correctly you'll see a +12 or 24V depending on which you have and if they are backwards you will see a _12 or 24v...
 
BTW if you read this thread you will find that most who complained of problems with these pumps and bothered to actually check and report back have admitted that the power supply was the issue... some used ones that weren't rated for enough amps and some used a lower voltage than speced... And then theres the possibility that the supply can just fail which is not uncommon (especially from bad caps as wbarber mentioned) There are also many cases where the pump was dryfired of jammed with grain...
I can only speak for myself but with proper power and prefiltering of the wort this has not been an issue at all for me in over 40 brew sessions with these pumps.

I did have one pump that froze up twice on me and when I pulled it apart I found the shaft bushing seemed to be molded too large and the fit was too tight..
I actually took that part from the pump I dropped and broke and swapped them and I have not had the issue occur since.
 
augiedoggy said:
BTW if you read this thread you will find that most who complained of problems with these pumps and bothered to actually check and report back have admitted that the power supply was the issue... some used ones that weren't rated for enough amps and some used a lower voltage than speced...
Click to expand...


I plan on using this power supply. 24v, 2A. Should be enough to power 2 pumps at once if needed. Once I prove this out, I will probably buy a couple more pumps. One to use, and another for backup.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424658700.791184.jpg
 
Slow_Day said:
I plan on using this power supply. 24v, 2A. Should be enough to power 2 pumps at once if needed. Once I prove this out, I will probably buy a couple more pumps. One to use, and another for backup.
View attachment 258704
Click to expand...

They sell pwm controllers that have the powerports your powersupply uses soldered directly to the pwm boards...I use one for my homemade yeast stirplate...
the ones you have will eork fine as well its just they need to be hardwired without additional hardware added..
 
Thanks for all the info on this thread. I recently bought a 24v solar pump and AC adapter off ebay along with the PWM speed controller and power button. Used it this past weekend and it worked like a charm. I thought at one point the pump had failed but I soon found out my hop bag was clogging the intake on the kettle (woops). Hopefully I didn't damage the pump. At $18, if I ever do burn up the pump, a replacement won't break the bank. Still making some adjustments but here are a couple picks of the current setup.

20150223_174820.jpg


20150221_130103.jpg
 
dstauth said:
Thanks for all the info on this thread. I recently bought a 24v solar pump and AC adapter off ebay along with the PWM speed controller and power button. Used it this past weekend and it worked like a charm. I thought at one point the pump had failed but I soon found out my hop bag was clogging the intake on the kettle (woops). Hopefully I didn't damage the pump. At $18, if I ever do burn up the pump, a replacement won't break the bank. Still making some adjustments but here are a couple picks of the current setup.
Click to expand...


Great minds....or is it week minds in this case? I had exactly the same problem with my hop bag on my last brew which frustrated me for about 10 min. Short time but really frustrating. All turned out well in the end.
 
dstauth said:
Thanks for all the info on this thread. I recently bought a 24v solar pump and AC adapter off ebay along with the PWM speed controller and power button. Used it this past weekend and it worked like a charm. I thought at one point the pump had failed but I soon found out my hop bag was clogging the intake on the kettle (woops). Hopefully I didn't damage the pump. At $18, if I ever do burn up the pump, a replacement won't break the bank. Still making some adjustments but here are a couple picks of the current setup.
Click to expand...

if you do want more flow I recommend putting a female camlock on the pump and connecting it right to the base of the mlt / kettle and doing away with one of the hoses.. the pump being mounted higher means less head pressure and more powerful flow... (although I'm sure its working well the way you have it too)
 
augiedoggy said:
if you do want more flow I recommend putting a female camlock on the pump and connecting it right to the base of the mlt / kettle and doing away with one of the hoses.. the pump being mounted higher means less head pressure and more powerful flow... (although I'm sure its working well the way you have it too)
Click to expand...
I could be wrong, but I thought head was measured from the top of the liquid (in this case the level of his MLT), gravity should equalizes anything up to that point. Would the pump being mounted low have any effect on the work required to lift the wort above the level in the MLT?
 
AnOldUR said:
I could be wrong, but I thought head was measured from the top of the liquid (in this case the level of his MLT), gravity should equalizes anything up to that point. Would the pump being mounted low have any effect on the work required to lift the wort above the level in the MLT?
Click to expand...

Actually you might be right now that I think about it! (im thinking about my aquarium setup with a refugum located down below the tank so the higher it has to pump the more the flow is effected.
 
AnOldUR said:
I could be wrong, but I thought head was measured from the top of the liquid (in this case the level of his MLT), gravity should equalizes anything up to that point. Would the pump being mounted low have any effect on the work required to lift the wort above the level in the MLT?
Click to expand...
The only difference would be any pressure drop resulting from a long hose length and/or a small hose diameter.

I'm just getting my pump operational, so I'm not speaking from experience, but might positioning the pump a bit lower than your mlt reduce dry running at the end of transfer?
 
Maybe this has been asked and answered already and I just missed it but does anyone know if this pump is the same as this pump? I realize the head and current ratings are different. I'm referring to the internal structure of the 2nd pump - stainless steel plate behind the impeller, etc.

There's also a 6M head/1.5A version of the 2nd pump listed here.
 
I can't say for sure since those eBay sellers of these pumps are a dime a dozen. But I bought the first one and yes it has the stainless plate, ceramic core (I think) and coated magnet.
 
Got it together. Running boiling PBW, (homemade), through it now. It whines a little bit when I throttle it back, but it works like a champ. I probably won't even be able to hear it with my burners going. I think I'm getting around 2.5 gallons/minute lifting a couple of feet on 24V.

I hope to use it this weekend. I'll probably mount it on a mobile stand until I get a second one going.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1425008162.131328.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1425008174.793552.jpg
 
Slow_Day said:
Got it together. Running boiling PBW, (homemade), through it now. It whines a little bit when I throttle it back, but it works like a champ. I probably won't even be able to hear it with my burners going. I think I'm getting around 2.5 gallons/minute lifting a couple of feet on 24V.

I hope to use it this weekend. I'll probably mount it on a mobile stand until I get a second one going.
View attachment 259554
View attachment 259555
Click to expand...

I'm going to piggyback on your post if you don't mind because I have no pictures and mine is setup nearly the same as yours..

I bought a pump and silicone tubing like yours from Amazon and SS camlocks and ball valve from bargain fittings. This past weekend I had friends over to brew a Delirium Tremens clone. I was very happy with the pump. If we didn't see liquid flowing we would not know it was running as it is very quiet. I used it to circulate cleaning fluid and boiling wort through my CFC. the only issue was having enough connections as my CFC still has just the 3/8 copper tubing and no compression fitting yet. A few zip ties solved the tiny leaks.
 
jcoxen said:
Maybe this has been asked and answered already and I just missed it but does anyone know if this pump is the same as this pump? I realize the head and current ratings are different. I'm referring to the internal structure of the 2nd pump - stainless steel plate behind the impeller, etc.

There's also a 6M head/1.5A version of the 2nd pump listed here.
Click to expand...
Same pumps.... I'm pretty confident the white box is a voltage boost transformer to convert 12v to 24vdc... The main limitation here is the size of the impeller and opening. that said the 24v version is better hands down.
 
GatorWayne said:
I bought a pump and silicone tubing like yours from Amazon and SS camlocks and ball valve from bargain fittings. This past weekend I had friends over to brew a Delirium Tremens clone. I was very happy with the pump. If we didn't see liquid flowing we would not know it was running as it is very quiet. I used it to circulate cleaning fluid and boiling wort through my CFC. the only issue was having enough connections as my CFC still has just the 3/8 copper tubing and no compression fitting yet. A few zip ties solved the tiny leaks.
Click to expand...


I used mine the first time a week ago for a double brew day. It worked great. I just need to work out my new layout. Lots of connecting and disconnecting.

You're right about it being quiet. Can't hear it at all with burners on. My favorite aspect so far is how I can use my CFC. I can recirculate full throttle until the temps coming out of the chiller are what I want, then switch directly to the fermenters. Much faster than what I had with just gravity.
 

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