Cavitation from sight glass after pickup tube installation

[puremalice]

Hey Guys!

I have recently purchased the 15 gallon brew-boss system. I have run some wet tests and one smash brew on it but I didn't like the loss in the kettle below the tri-clamp fitting so I ordered a 1" pickup tube for it.

I had to trim down the tube in order for it to fit but it is pretty snug on the bottom of the kettle.

I performed a wet test last night and the minute I turned on the pump I had a cavitation. I realized that it was coming from the top of the sight glass so I put a piece of duct tape on it and then everything worked fine.

Obviously the path of least resistance occured but would be ok to just run this way?

A couple of concerns I have:

1. That I am putting to much stress on the march pump.
2. During the mash or brewing cycle since there is such a low clearance that it would clog.
3. Do I need to get a better clearence on the pickup tube?

I have attached pictures of my system and the pickup tube.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Rex

 

[JoshuaW]

I cant speak to your issue, but do you have a link to that cart?

 

[puremalice]

I don't have the link but I bought it at costco for 130.00. It isn't on their site but is their kitchen prep cart with a bamboo top. A location should be able to look it up for you.

 

[kh54s10]

Call Darin at Brew-Boss. I hear that he is very good at customer service and equipment questions.

 

[normonster]

That tube has VERY small clearance.

I have the same issue of sg cavitation and the way I deal with it is to throttle down the pump to the point at which it stops. Best would be a second port on the kettle of course.

 

[TexasWine]

Is it a standard offering from Brew Boss to have the sight glass on the pump suction? If so, I'm surprised. Unless I'm missing something, there's no way to avoid sucking air into your pump suction with this type of arrangement. (BTW, you're not getting cavitation. It's air going to your pump.)

Personally, I would never install an open tube to the atmosphere on a pump suction. If you seal it off it fixes the problem of sucking in air, but then your sight glass stops working.

You can easily fix it by drilling another port in the kettle and installing the sight glass in it.

 

[puremalice]

Is it a standard offering from Brew Boss to have the sight glass on the pump suction? If so, I'm surprised. Unless I'm missing something, there's no way to avoid sucking air into your pump suction with this type of arrangement. (BTW, you're not getting cavitation. It's air going to your pump.)

Personally, I would never install an open tube to the atmosphere on a pump suction. If you seal it off it fixes the problem of sucking in air, but then your sight glass stops working.

You can easily fix it by drilling another port in the kettle and installing the sight glass in it.

@TexasWine Thanks for the information. I have emailed Darin for his thoughts on the sight glass. One option would be to use the sight glass as it is and then to cap it off during the brew process. The minute you uncap it the water level normalizes in the tube.

Another question is that since adding in the pickup tube this issue became apparant. So does that mean that it is to close to the kettle and causing to much of a suction? Would this have an adverse effect on the pump itself?

Thanks again for all the help guys.

 

[TexasWine]

Now you got me thinking. So it wasn't happening before you added the dip tube? Fluids follow the path of least resistance, so the suction pressure must have been maintained at a sufficient enough level to keep liquid in the sight glass. I'd be curious to find out if the level in the sight glass was lower than the level in the kettle while the pump was running. I would wager that it was.

It sounds like the dip tube has introduced enough pressure drop in the suction line to make the pump preferentially suck down the sight glass. If you shorten the dip tube you might fix the problem. But, as I mentioned above, I doubt the level reading would be accurate while running the pump.

Keep us posted! I'll be interested to hear what Darin says as I know he puts a lot of thought into his designs and I'm sure he had a reason/rationale for putting the sight glass on the suction

 

[GreenMonti]

Fluids exert the same pressure regardless of gallonage. A 300 gallon tank 12" deep will have the same pressure as a 1/2" tube 12" long. When you think about it, in this case. You have two cylinders open to the atmosphere. They are the same. with suction going, the sight glass might be lower.

Now, does the sight glass level pull down far enough to draw in air? I don't know if it dose in this case. Being a sight glass it should be pretty easy to see. However. My question is.....
Does the pump put out air bubbles or just pulsate?
The answer will tell you what is happening.

Possibilities for me would be.
As mentioned, the pickup tube being a bit to close to the bottom.
Or
A trapped air bubble in the top of the pickup tube bend. Essentially making the tube smaller in diameter. A small hole in the top of the 90 degree bend will rid the tube of air.

What is the diameter of the pickup tube and how far off the bottom is it? Your gonna want the bottom clearance large enough to match or come close to matching the cross section of the tubing feeding the pump.

Edit;
I re read it's a 1" pickup tube. Looks like 1/2" lines though. I'm tired and have had a few but. I'm guessing you should have about 1/2" from the bottom to the tube. That should match cross sections.

 

[GreenMonti]

If the pickup tube is the issue, you could drill a series of holes around the bottom of the 90 that would add up to the cross section value. You don't just have to cut the tube shorter.

 

[Bobby_M]

Putting the sightglass in line with the drain is a poor design choice. I understand the rational, such as to leverage the single port, but I would drill a half inch hole and relocate the sightglass. I have the parts.

 

[GreenMonti]

Putting the sightglass in line with the drain is a poor design choice. I understand the rational, such as to leverage the single port, but I would drill a half inch hole and relocate the sightglass. I have the parts.

Why? If the sight glass works fine (or can be fixed) where it is with the pump running, why relocate it?
Cause you want to sell parts?

Not trying to an a$$ here but, just simply relocating the sight glass doesn't answer the question of what is going on here. What is really the issue.

 

[Bobby_M]

Why? If the sight glass works fine (or can be fixed) where it is with the pump running, why relocate it?
Cause you want to sell parts?

Not trying to an a$$ here but, just simply relocating the sight glass doesn't answer the question of what is going on here. What is really the issue.

That's a bullsh!t accusation if I've ever read one and that's all I'll say about that because you are being an a$$.

The reason why you don't want to mix a drain and sightglass port is exactly the reason the OP is having a problem. When you drain, the tee area experiences a minor venturi action where a low pressure area is created right under the sight glass. When a diptube is not installed, the lowered pressure is not enough to suck air, but it is enough to cause a false low reading on the sight, therefore not accurately representing the remaining liquid level.

Relocating the port allows the sight to read accurately when draining or not and it also allows use of a diptube to more fully drain the kettle. It's a win win whether you buy the parts from me or anywhere else.

 

[Bobby_M]

Why? If the sight glass works fine (or can be fixed) where it is with the pump running, why relocate it?
Cause you want to sell parts?

Not trying to an a$$ here but, just simply relocating the sight glass doesn't answer the question of what is going on here. What is really the issue.

That's a bullsh!t accusation if I've ever read one and that's all I'll say about that because you are being an a$$.

The reason why you don't want to mix a drain and sightglass port is exactly the reason the OP is having a problem. When you drain, the tee area experiences a minor venturi action where a low pressure area is created right under the sight glass. When a diptube is not installed, the lowered pressure is not enough to suck air, but it is enough to cause a false low reading on the sight, therefore not accurately representing the remaining liquid level.

Relocating the port allows the sight to read accurately when draining or not and it also allows use of a diptube to more fully drain the kettle. It's a win win whether you buy the parts from me or anywhere else.

I think 99% of Darin's (brewboss) choices are awesome and I like the whole system in every way besides this one design hiccup. I get asked constantly if you can put one of my sightglasses inline with a drain and I always recommend against it whether I stand to lose a sale or not.

 

[GreenMonti]

That's a bullsh!t accusation if I've ever read one and that's all I'll say about that because you are being an a$$.

The reason why you don't want to mix a drain and sightglass port is exactly the reason the OP is having a problem. When you drain, the tee area experiences a minor venturi action where a low pressure area is created right under the sight glass. When a diptube is not installed, the lowered pressure is not enough to suck air, but it is enough to cause a false low reading on the sight, therefore not accurately representing the remaining liquid level.

Relocating the port allows the sight to read accurately when draining or not and it also allows use of a diptube to more fully drain the kettle. It's a win win whether you buy the parts from me or anywhere else.

I think 99% of Darin's (brewboss) choices are awesome and I like the whole system in every way besides this one design hiccup. I get asked constantly if you can put one of my sightglasses inline with a drain and I always recommend against it whether I stand to lose a sale or not.

Well, at least you finally posted some helpful information into the thread. You could have stated that before you threw out your sales pitch.

Remember, not everyone thinks like you or gets asked the questions you do. If your going to involve yourself in threads, you should give info to help others understand the what and why behind your point of view.

Wether I'm an a$$ or not. I hate sales pitches without any info behind them to make me or others think about what's going on. I don't use sight glasses anymore as I find them useless. Let alone needing to get an accurate reading from one while a pump is running when I did use them. The Venturi effect your speaking of could be an issue if the pump is running wide open.
My other hobby is marine aquariums, where protein skimmers are used. They use a Venturi to draw in air from the water inlet and then chop it up before it exits the pump. Same potential here.

Edit;
By the way, that's a super professional way to handle yourself. As a vendor or a business person in general, I'd think you'd have a little more couth when dealing with a potential customer (me or anyone reading this) or representing yourself in general.

You take care Bobby.

 

[GreenMonti]

The reason why you don't want to mix a drain and sightglass port is exactly the reason the OP is having a problem. When you drain, the tee area experiences a minor venturi action where a low pressure area is created right under the sight glass. When a diptube is not installed, the lowered pressure is not enough to suck air, but it is enough to cause a false low reading on the sight, therefore not accurately representing the remaining liquid level.

Relocating the port allows the sight to read accurately when draining or not and it also allows use of a diptube to more fully drain the kettle. It's a win win whether you buy the parts from me or anywhere else.

Let's remember the OP is asking about cavitation. Not how far the kettle will drain. Since you bring it up though, as the OP mentioned. A simple piece of duct tape will solve the issue of draining down all the way. They just have to make the sight glass air tight to complete the draining.
Some may see this as a hassle, and others won't mind it as they don't have to buy more pieces and drill their kettles.

Edit;
I'd also think the dip tube would impart restriction on the intake making the Venturi effect less of an issue due to a slower velocity going past the sight glass opening. Especially if the space between the kettle bottom and the dip tube is so small that the line itself is essentially smaller diameter.

 

[puremalice]

@Texaswine Yeah the sightglass drops with out without the dip tube. But with the dip tube I lose all suction into the pump. Darin told me to limit the pump on the pump out side but I brewed this weekend and I was unable to throttle it enough to stop the problem.

Duct tape does stop the issue but it was cold out this weekend and it didn't stick that well. I am going to look into getting a cap like somthing in this thread
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26105&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=0

But as you stated above while running the sight glass is really useless. In the future I will consider moving it off the pump line so I can always have a better understanding of the kettle level. But I don't really want to put a new hole in my brand new kettle.

 

[puremalice]

Now, does the sight glass level pull down far enough to draw in air? I don't know if it dose in this case. Being a sight glass it should be pretty easy to see. However. My question is.....
Does the pump put out air bubbles or just pulsate?
The answer will tell you what is happening.

The pump seems to put out air bubbles more than anything. Even if I am blocking the sight glass it seems to be having air bubbles in the line.

 

[puremalice]

Putting the sightglass in line with the drain is a poor design choice. I understand the rational, such as to leverage the single port, but I would drill a half inch hole and relocate the sightglass. I have the parts.

Thanks and I may end up moving the sight glass to a different hole and have also been on brewhardware.com before for parts.

 

[GreenMonti]

@Texaswine Yeah the sightglass drops with out without the dip tube. But with the dip tube I lose all suction into the pump. Darin told me to limit the pump on the pump out side but I brewed this weekend and I was unable to throttle it enough to stop the problem.

Duct tape does stop the issue but it was cold out this weekend and it didn't stick that well. I am going to look into getting a cap like somthing in this thread
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26105&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=0

But as you stated above while running the sight glass is really useless. In the future I will consider moving it off the pump line so I can always have a better understanding of the kettle level. But I don't really want to put a new hole in my brand new kettle.

Blocking the output helps to balance the issue. By slowing down the pumps output you compensate for the lack of input.

The pump seems to put out air bubbles more than anything. Even if I am blocking the sight glass it seems to be having air bubbles in the line.

Back to what I mentioned before, trapped air in the suction line will cause cavitation. The dip tube may be restricting the input to the point that it can't clear itself. I have a sort of dip tube on my kettle and I have to be diligent about removing the air or my pump will cavitate. I've also had it build up air to the point that it's quit pumping until I cleared the air bubble in the pumps head.

Edit;
If you have 1/2" lines and valve, with a 1" dip tube. The velocity through the dip tube will be less then the 1/2" lines. Making a bubble more difficult to clear.

 

[TexasWine]

Edit;
I'd also think the dip tube would impart restriction on the intake making the Venturi effect less of an issue due to a slower velocity going past the sight glass opening. Especially if the space between the kettle bottom and the dip tube is so small that the line itself is essentially smaller diameter.

Actually, the opposite is true. More restriction at the dip tube exacerbates the problem causing the venturi effect to increase.

Let's say you could reach your hand down to the bottom of the kettle and put your finger over the dip tube, covering it completely so that no suction was coming from the kettle to the pump. The only open path for the suction is now the sight glass. In short order that sight glass will be sucked down, pulling air into the pump. The same principle applies even with just a partial block/restriction, only this time it's not your finger causing the restriction. It's the dip tube's proximity to the kettle bottom.

 

[GreenMonti]

Actually, the opposite is true. More restriction at the dip tube exacerbates the problem causing the venturi effect to increase.

Let's say you could reach your hand down to the bottom of the kettle and put your finger over the dip tube, covering it completely so that no suction was coming from the kettle to the pump. The only open path for the suction is now the sight glass. In short order that sight glass will be sucked down, pulling air into the pump. The same principle applies even with just a partial block/restriction, only this time it's not your finger causing the restriction. It's the dip tube's proximity to the kettle bottom.

No. Your not describing the effects of a Venturi.
You are correct that the sight glass could be drawn down more quickly due to a restriction on the dip tube. Path of least resistance right. However, that's not a stronger Venturi that's being created. A Venturi is caused by fluid or air passing at a high rate of speed causing a greater low pressure zone. That's why a purpose built Venturi will neck down briefly and then open back up. At the point where the line necks down, the fluid is forced to speed up. That is where the port is placed in order to draw in whatever you trying to add into the flow.

 

[normonster]

That's friggin neato.

 

[GreenMonti]

oops

 

[TexasWine]

No. Your not describing the effects of a Venturi.
You are correct that the sight glass could be drawn down more quickly due to a restriction on the dip tube. Path of least resistance right. However, that's not a stronger Venturi that's being created. A Venturi is caused by fluid or air passing at a high rate of speed causing a greater low pressure zone. That's why a purpose built Venturi will neck down briefly and then open back up. At the point where the line necks down, the fluid is forced to speed up. That is where the port is placed in order to draw in whatever you trying to add into the flow.

You're right. Wasn't thinking. Path of least resistance is the right way to look at this.

But regardless, a greater restriction on the dip tube will cause more problems with sucking in air, not reduce it.

 

[puremalice]

oops

GreenMonti what happened to your awesome mathematical posting.

Thanks for all of your explanation and I think I will drill the holes into the pickup tube to see if this helps the problem. I would rather ruin a $25 pickup tube than my kettle.

What size holes did you recommend drilling?

Thanks again.

Rex

 

[GreenMonti]

You're right. Wasn't thinking. Path of least resistance is the right way to look at this.

But regardless, a greater restriction on the dip tube will cause more problems with sucking in air, not reduce it.

Correct. Which is what I've been saying all along.

GreenMonti what happened to your awesome mathematical posting.

Thanks for all of your explanation and I think I will drill the holes into the pickup tube to see if this helps the problem. I would rather ruin a $25 pickup tube than my kettle.

What size holes did you recommend drilling?

Thanks again.

Rex

I realized my math was wrong. So I took the post down as I didn't have time to correct it. Holes or scalloping the edge will help reduce the restriction the dip tube is putting on the line.
How far off the bottom is your dip tube?
Is it cut level with the bottom of the kettle? It looks like it might be closer to the bottom where it's closest to the kettle wall.

Edit;
If your willing to drill the tube, you may as well cut it shorter if you can. Not sure how far into the bend you are now

 

[GreenMonti]

Okay, I haven't seen this anywhere on the boards and based on everyone saying that utilizing 1 port for both a drain and a sight glass is a bad idea. This is the piece that needs to be made.

I don't have a lot of time at the moment so you just get a picture. Chicken scratch, like what my brain is made of. For those vendors reading this, your welcome. You all have new kits and components coming out in 2016. I put up the "keg tool" a few years back so, here's a new idea. Again, I'm not being an a$$ here. It's just the way the world works. An idea to help another person and someone will capitalize on it if they can. Just is. Look at electric brewing kits and components.

The pic is of a triclover setup since this thread is about a brew boss kettle. I'm going to think some more about an off the shelf pipe components build of this. Hopefully it will not require much soldering or welding like this picture. I'm not sure off hand if a section of pipe would be needed if one were to use a long flange ferrule. There might be enough room for the sight glass port.

The sight glass port could be setup to be in any direction really. Straight up, off to one side 90 degrees for a little more water level reading, or out the bottom if one wanted and with a a couple 90's a much lower level reading. This will not require any mods to the sight glass as it is just reading the fluid level. With say a 1" dip tube assembly in a 1 1/2" triclover piece. There will be space all around the dip tube making the two separate as well as there won't be any flow going by the sight glass to cause any false readings.

Any questions, ask

 

[TexasWine]

Okay, I haven't seen this anywhere on the boards and based on everyone saying that utilizing 1 port for both a drain and a sight glass is a bad idea. This is the piece that needs to be made.

I don't have a lot of time at the moment so you just get a picture. Chicken scratch, like what my brain is made of. For those vendors reading this, your welcome. You all have new kits and components coming out in 2016. I put up the "keg tool" a few years back so, here's a new idea. Again, I'm not being an a$$ here. It's just the way the world works. An idea to help another person and someone will capitalize on it if they can. Just is. Look at electric brewing kits and components.

The pic is of a triclover setup since this thread is about a brew boss kettle. I'm going to think some more about an off the shelf pipe components build of this. Hopefully it will not require much soldering or welding like this picture. I'm not sure off hand if a section of pipe would be needed if one were to use a long flange ferrule. There might be enough room for the sight glass port.

The sight glass port could be setup to be in any direction really. Straight up, off to one side 90 degrees for a little more water level reading, or out the bottom if one wanted and with a a couple 90's a much lower level reading. This will not require any mods to the sight glass as it is just reading the fluid level. With say a 1" dip tube assembly in a 1 1/2" triclover piece. There will be space all around the dip tube making the two separate as well as there won't be any flow going by the sight glass to cause any false readings.

Any questions, ask

Fantastic idea!

 

[normonster]

Yeah, that's a cool idea Monti. Only thing that might be a pain is cleaning it but hey, part of the job right.

 

[Bobby_M]

The design will work great. It's just a matter of build cost vs drilling a new 1/2" hole. Custom TC parts are pricey because there is a lot of linear weld length involved. You're looking at a 2" long spool with a 1/8" NPT half coupling welded into the side. Then a SS washer welded to the ID on one end and a piece of stainless tubing welded to the washer ID. It's probably a $60-80 piece.

 

[flyingpole]

I like the idea except for the dip tube you have in the design. Please do not use a dip tube with the Brew-Boss system. Dip tubes should not be used on systems with pump recirculation as it forces the pump to inhale sediment (TRUB) that can plug the holes in the COFI filter infusion tube or the sparge arm on BIAB models. Worse yet it can damage the pump impeller. The system was designed without a dip tube on purpose, for these reasons. I've had a few people request a dip tubes and for the life of me I can't figure out why one is wanted. It won't improve efficiency of the mash in any way (exactly the opposite if it plugs things up). The 1" of dead space on the bottom of the kettle prevents TRUB from entering the fermenter when draining as well. A dip tube would force the TRUB to be sucked right into the fermenter. Simply tipping the kettle slightly at the end of the drain into the fermenter gets any left over wort out without the risk of TRUB making the trip as well. Maybe I'm missing something as there seems to be appeal for the dip tube. Any feedback would be appreciated as if it makes sense I'd look at offering the device drawn out here.

Relative to the sight glass on the valve. I added the option of a sight glass originally as a weldless device that required people to drill a hole in the kettle to mount it. People did not like that design, so I added one inline with the valve on the pump output. Every pump supplied with the Brew-Boss system is equipped with a flow restriction valve. My experience has been that restricting the flow out of the pump does not affect mash efficiency but can slow the flow enough to prevent air getting sucked into the sight glass. Of course the sight glass will not show actual wort level when the pump is running. I personally don't use a sight glass, can't see a reason for one in a system that starts out with a full volume mash and it is just one more thing to clean and or break (glass). Are you using a dip tube now? If so, that could be the cause of the air getting sucked in through the sight glass, as the dip tube could be getting plugged up.

The best solution for you is to simply drill a hole and convert the sight glass to a weldless version. I can get you the parts to do that very cheaply.

Hope that helps!

Okay, I haven't seen this anywhere on the boards and based on everyone saying that utilizing 1 port for both a drain and a sight glass is a bad idea. This is the piece that needs to be made.

I don't have a lot of time at the moment so you just get a picture. Chicken scratch, like what my brain is made of. For those vendors reading this, your welcome. You all have new kits and components coming out in 2016. I put up the "keg tool" a few years back so, here's a new idea. Again, I'm not being an a$$ here. It's just the way the world works. An idea to help another person and someone will capitalize on it if they can. Just is. Look at electric brewing kits and components.

The pic is of a triclover setup since this thread is about a brew boss kettle. I'm going to think some more about an off the shelf pipe components build of this. Hopefully it will not require much soldering or welding like this picture. I'm not sure off hand if a section of pipe would be needed if one were to use a long flange ferrule. There might be enough room for the sight glass port.

The sight glass port could be setup to be in any direction really. Straight up, off to one side 90 degrees for a little more water level reading, or out the bottom if one wanted and with a a couple 90's a much lower level reading. This will not require any mods to the sight glass as it is just reading the fluid level. With say a 1" dip tube assembly in a 1 1/2" triclover piece. There will be space all around the dip tube making the two separate as well as there won't be any flow going by the sight glass to cause any false readings.

Any questions, ask

 

[flyingpole]

The dip tube is causing your issue. Ditch the dip tube please!

\

Hey Guys!

I have recently purchased the 15 gallon brew-boss system. I have run some wet tests and one smash brew on it but I didn't like the loss in the kettle below the tri-clamp fitting so I ordered a 1" pickup tube for it.

I had to trim down the tube in order for it to fit but it is pretty snug on the bottom of the kettle.

I performed a wet test last night and the minute I turned on the pump I had a cavitation. I realized that it was coming from the top of the sight glass so I put a piece of duct tape on it and then everything worked fine.

Obviously the path of least resistance occured but would be ok to just run this way?

A couple of concerns I have:

1. That I am putting to much stress on the march pump.
2. During the mash or brewing cycle since there is such a low clearance that it would clog.
3. Do I need to get a better clearence on the pickup tube?

I have attached pictures of my system and the pickup tube.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Rex

 

[30Bones]

That's a bullsh!t accusation if I've ever read one and that's all I'll say about that because you are being an a$$.

The reason why you don't want to mix a drain and sightglass port is exactly the reason the OP is having a problem. When you drain, the tee area experiences a minor venturi action where a low pressure area is created right under the sight glass. When a diptube is not installed, the lowered pressure is not enough to suck air, but it is enough to cause a false low reading on the sight, therefore not accurately representing the remaining liquid level.

Relocating the port allows the sight to read accurately when draining or not and it also allows use of a diptube to more fully drain the kettle. It's a win win whether you buy the parts from me or anywhere else.

I think 99% of Darin's (brewboss) choices are awesome and I like the whole system in every way besides this one design hiccup. I get asked constantly if you can put one of my sightglasses inline with a drain and I always recommend against it whether I stand to lose a sale or not.

Exactly! A friends system WAS setup in this manor and he has since changed it up.

Also to the OP, having your dip tube that close to the bottom isn't really needed. All you will do is suck up more protein and hop sludge into the carboy. Not a bad thing at all, but it's not critical to get every drop out of the BK. Nice rig!

 

[GreenMonti]

Fantastic idea!

Thank you

Yeah, that's a cool idea Monti. Only thing that might be a pain is cleaning it but hey, part of the job right.

Thank you. I wondered about cleaning but being triclover. I figured it would be simple if a scrubbing was needed. I'd think a tooth brush or some sort of brush would get in there pretty easy.

 

[GreenMonti]

The design will work great. It's just a matter of build cost vs drilling a new 1/2" hole. Custom TC parts are pricey because there is a lot of linear weld length involved. You're looking at a 2" long spool with a 1/8" NPT half coupling welded into the side. Then a SS washer welded to the ID on one end and a piece of stainless tubing welded to the washer ID. It's probably a $60-80 piece.

I never said it would be cheap. I think we all know that there are those that would pay for it. Look at element housings. Several options at different price points. Yet they do the same thing. The bits and pieces could be sold and soldered at home too. I also thought about the bling factor. There's a lot going in that direction and one less hole could change things in someone's mind. Or even a weld less fitting if said person is one that has to have things welded. Lots to consider. I also mentioned trying to make the idea work with just pipe fittings, that would require less custom work.
Does your weldor or you charge for welds by the inch? I've never heard anyone put weld cost in terms of linear length.

I like the idea except for the dip tube you have in the design. Please do not use a dip tube with the Brew-Boss system. Dip tubes should not be used on systems with pump recirculation as it forces the pump to inhale sediment (TRUB) that can plug the holes in the COFI filter infusion tube or the sparge arm on BIAB models. Worse yet it can damage the pump impeller. The system was designed without a dip tube on purpose, for these reasons. I've had a few people request a dip tubes and for the life of me I can't figure out why one is wanted. It won't improve efficiency of the mash in any way (exactly the opposite if it plugs things up). The 1" of dead space on the bottom of the kettle prevents TRUB from entering the fermenter when draining as well. A dip tube would force the TRUB to be sucked right into the fermenter. Simply tipping the kettle slightly at the end of the drain into the fermenter gets any left over wort out without the risk of TRUB making the trip as well. Maybe I'm missing something as there seems to be appeal for the dip tube. Any feedback would be appreciated as if it makes sense I'd look at offering the device drawn out here.

Relative to the sight glass on the valve. I added the option of a sight glass originally as a weldless device that required people to drill a hole in the kettle to mount it. People did not like that design, so I added one inline with the valve on the pump output. Every pump supplied with the Brew-Boss system is equipped with a flow restriction valve. My experience has been that restricting the flow out of the pump does not affect mash efficiency but can slow the flow enough to prevent air getting sucked into the sight glass. Of course the sight glass will not show actual wort level when the pump is running. I personally don't use a sight glass, can't see a reason for one in a system that starts out with a full volume mash and it is just one more thing to clean and or break (glass). Are you using a dip tube now? If so, that could be the cause of the air getting sucked in through the sight glass, as the dip tube could be getting plugged up.

The best solution for you is to simply drill a hole and convert the sight glass to a weldless version. I can get you the parts to do that very cheaply.

Hope that helps!

Hello Darin,
Like I mentioned in our e mails. I don't brew with the brew boss system. (I'd just like others to know this) The idea was meant to help out the OP of the thread as well as others that might want to have only one port welded into their kettle. Sometimes finding a good weldor is hard to do and not cheap. So the fewer fittings to weld in, the better. Also, this being a general posting. Other brewers aren't so worried about running small bits through their pumps as they have different pieces of equipment that aren't as sensitive. Maybe you could omit the dip tube? I'm not sure if the drawing would work better (without the dip tube) then what's offered now or not. I'd think it would be more accurate, maybe not?

You've got a great product that can be offered in many configurations to accommodate a great number of people. Well done.

 

[GreenMonti]

A little more thought,
I wonder if a smaller input/feed hole to the sight glass would help? What I mean is, say the reduction bushing (if there is one) had a small hole in it like the cap on top of the sight glass to vent it. If that would help alleviate the Venturi effect. its still open, you'll still get a reading. Just not as much pressure differential while liquid is flowing past it........


Another idea,
The OP could turn the whole mess on its side (90 degrees) and install a small valve (a 90 will also be required) and just shut off the sight glass all together when not wanted. Could leave it as is too, it just won't read as low on the kettle.