Carbonation Bright Tank Help

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Richy_23

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I have small 500l bright tank with 400l of cider in it. Sitting at 3 degrees I put the pressure on to 20 psi and left it. It has a carb stone in the bottom not a large one. Standard Kent 1/2 inch thread. For some reason after 12 hours my cider is just got a lot of head and when clears out of the tank is holding no Co2. I have herd of the method of increasing pressure slowly and overcoming wetting pressure on the stone. I am sampling straight from the tank through a half in h valve to a glass. Do I need a bigger stone? The pressure usually takes about I reckon 12 hours to reach equilibrium with regulator to brite tank. I am getting really frustrated if anyone has a sure fire instruction method to help would be much appreciated. My understanding was I could start carbing from 3 degrees going toward 1 but it maybe better to wait till it gets to one. So if anyone can see any holes in my method would be great to have your input.

Cheers Richard
 
You should definitely be able to start carbing while going form 3 to 1, it's plenty cold. I also don't see any problem with your method, as setting it to 20 should overcome the wetting pressure. I also wouldn't think the size of the stone would cause the problem, but may increase the time it take to carb up, once equilibrium is reached the cider should be saturated with CO2 regardless of the size of the stone.

If I understand it correctly, when you take a sample it's plenty foamy, then goes flat in the glass?

First, I'd confirm the temp of the tank by measuring the temp of the sample you pulled. I've had thrmowells read incorrectly before so it may help to confirm that number. In larger tanks, temperature can cause stratification within the tank itself.

Next, confirm the regulator is working properly by hooking it up to a pressure gauge.

Finally, I'd maybe try and pull a sample out of the bottom or racking port since the sample port may be agitating the cider too much and releasing the CO2. This is a long shot, but it's best to cover all bases.
 
Yea okay. I find the tank is at three I have a digital multimeter 300 dollar one and is accurate . I test brine with it etc. I am thinking if I put on a hose off the bottom valve 8ml diameter and poor slowly might be a different story . As it gushes into the pint glass. When it comes out of the valve on its own about two thirds full foam and then settles. I just want to see bubbles rising up through the cider from the bottom of the glass. Inside tank is three but time it's out that valve and into a glass bottle it's more like 8 . We have outside temps of 16 degrees low at the moment and 24 during day. I am just bewildered on what I am doing wrong the stone is 0.5 microns so I know the bubbles will be small but you should still be able to site them. I will pre chill the sample glass as well.
 
My feeling is if I set it to 20 and leave it reaches 20 in about 12 hours. So there is no longer gas flowing. So no longer Co2 going through the cider. So does this mean at the cold temp the head pressure co2 dissolves into the cider also?
 
I just want to make sure it's properly carbed before I keg it. My stone is through the base of the tank in the centre . My only valve for sampling etc is my bottom valve. I know the stones working properly checked in a bucket. And it seems tight not loose.
 
I had a thought say I have cider carbing in bright tank at 20psi for three or four days and its at equilibrium before taking a sample do I need to drop the pressure in the tank to say 5psi or 1 psi. Before taking a sample . I think maybe I need to be more patient as cider is cold 2 degrees but I am getting foam and I have a short 50cm sample hose from the tank this maybe too short. Really would love an idiot guide to all this from brite tank carbing to kegging/ bottling.
 
Richy,
I am about to buy my first bright tank to carbonate my first batch of cider. Any lessons to be learned from your experiences?
 
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