The reviews for the cheap ones on amazon are pretty bad. Sealing issues
I read 1 hour for 5 gallons
Not sure of your source but the morebeer link says this:
How to use this product:
Beer must be stored cold 34–40°F
1. Preboil the stone for 2–3 minutes before using. This assures you that your stone is sterile and any residual oils have been boiled off.
2. Sanitize the whole keg lid before submersing into your keg filled with beer.
3. Set your PSI on your regulator to 3–4psi and attach your gas in fitting to the body connect on the lid. Leave keg at this pressure for 1 hour.
4. Raise your pressure 2PSI per hour until you reach 10–12psi. Leave it at 10–12psi for 24 hours. Pour a pint and test the carbonation. If you think your beer needs more CO2 leave for another 4–6 hours and have another pint.
5. Remove carbonation lid after carbonation level is satisfactory. Return original keg lid for long term storage.
3. Set your PSI on your regulator to 3–4psi and attach your gas in fitting to the body connect on the lid. Leave keg at this pressure for 1 hour.
I like what you are thinking. Is there any difference between attaching to the gas dip tube or the modified lid?Seems exce$$ive for something that can be built for a couple dollars and attached to the carb post on the underside of the keg top.
Two worm clamps, 3-ish feet of tubing or less, and a carb stone. Why wouldn’t this work?
Is there any difference between attaching to the gas dip tube or the modified lid?
The stone barb I found was 1/4" and the plastic replacement gas dip tube was 1/4". It should all fit, theoretically, if you have to replace the tube. Any thoughts on using the stone for serving?This is what I’m wondering, as it seems like the cheapest simple solution. Theoretically, you could leave it in there the entire duration of serving/storage too, right?
Perhaps the hesitation is that it’s hard for some to reach their hand in the keg opening and push the tubing onto the post? Isn’t that what SWMBO’s are for, though? Or perhaps the posts are a different diameter than the carb stone MFL/barb requiring the use of step-down adapter tubing pieces?
If you attached the stone to the gas inlet and left it there, wouldn't that potentially cause foaming inside of the keg when pouring?
Beyond the reduced timing, I supposed it's a matter of opinion. I bottled a hopped cider last night and felt I didn't get the over-fizz I normally get from the slow method. Clearly there are many other variables involved but I tried to keep everything else the same. I also thought the effervesce was nicer with the stone.What would make one state "the carbonation is better than set and forget"?
Unless one never actually allowed the beer to reach equilibrium...
Cheers!
By that, do you mean you've just set your regulator to the usual pressure? In that case you'll actually have a lower pressure in the keg because of the losses incurred when going through the stone, so after a while your beer will inevitably end up with less carbonation than expected. Just try raising the pressure incrementally by 1-2 PSI until you have satisfactory carbonation.It wasn’t actually flat, it just doesn’t retain head as well and the carbonation is more creamy than having carbonic bite. And this is despite keeping the same serving pressure in the keg. Strange, but perhaps desirable in some styles. Good to know!
By that, do you mean you've just set your regulator to the usual pressure? In that case you'll actually have a lower pressure in the keg because of the losses incurred when going through the stone, so after a while your beer will inevitably end up with less carbonation than expected. Just try raising the pressure incrementally by 1-2 PSI until you have satisfactory carbonation.
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