I think that if you do use 007, you should increase the mash temp a few degrees. That has just been the experience that I have had...007 at low mash temps will attenuate like crazy!
Eric
This is what I've come up with. Any thoughts?
2-Row Malt 14.00 lb
Munich 10L Malt 2.25 lb
Caramel 10L 1.75 lb
Carapils 1.25 lb
Mash @ 148-149F for 60min
Boil for 90min (be sure to account for an extra half hour of evap.)
0.75oz Warrior @ 60min
0.75oz Simcoe @ 60min
1.00oz Cascade @ 30min
1.00oz Centennial @ 30min
1.50oz Cascade @ Flame out
1.50oz Centennial @ Flame out
White Labs WLP001
Dry hop in primary 24 hours after krausen drop, Rack to secondary after 3 days of dry hopping.
Dry hops:
1.00oz Cascade
1.00oz Amarillo
0.50oz Chinook
0.50oz Centennial
0.50oz Simcoe
Per my software, expect:
Preboil 1.077
OG 1.089
FG 1.020
ABV 9.4%
IBU 84
Going to brew two batches of this soon (two different parties) - a good way to get rid of the piles of hops I have around and then restock.
After reading this thread, I too was curious about WLP002 vs. WLP007.
Just crunching the numbers, if the beer is 7.5% ABV with an OG of 1.070, that means we need to get to an FG of 1.013. That means 81.43% attenuation. I just don't see how that is possible with WLP002. From White Labs:
WLP002:
Attenuation: 63-70%
Flocculation: Very High
Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 65-68°F
(18-20°C)
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium
WLP007:
Attenuation: 70-80%
Flocculation: Medium to High
Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 65-70°F
(18-21°C)
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium-High
So I'm choosing WLP007 and following the exact mash schedule in the first post. I'll make a nice starter for the first batch, then pitch the proper amount of slurry for the second batch. I'll be sure and post my results.
And BTW, I've used S-04 in the past and thought it left a strange Ester profile (even when fermenting cool). Interested to see my results with WLP007 which is supposed to be the same strain.
atimmerman88 said:So I've got my grain ground for this, check my 007 starter today and it smells like apple vinegar and the gravity hasn't dropped at all. 1st infection I've ever had.... So I'm at a cross roads...I'd like to brew this but all I've got to work with for yeast is S-04 and WLP001.... Curious as to what some folks would vote for a replacement...I don't feel comfortable sitting on ground grain for 2 weeks which will be the next time I could buy more yeast and brew....
Well I am thrilled that I've wasted 400grams of DME and 2 vials on this one...
Turns out my stir bar must be infected, 2nd started went south. I made a 500mL started for 3711 from the same wort that was just fine....DAM
Well I've got 6gal of wort in the fridge, hope it's ok until I get more yeast this week..
I'm making a gallon of this ferm on 3711 for fun.
Beezer94 said:What are you using to sanitize? Are you sure your not smelling the apple/pear English esters from a higher temperature starter combined with nostril burning CO2?
Nearly 100% positive.
Starsan for everything...
WLP 001 and 007 had the same smell. 0 fermentation 2 days at 70f
The small starter for 3711 finished in 24 hrs and smells normal for a starter. I'm pretty sure it's the stir bar
Bought s05 to use tonight
Are you checking gravity with a refractometer? After any fermentation occurs the results are wrong. There are calculators that let your approximate values after the fact.
If you are using a hydrometer to check gravity of starter and it's still not dropping, what temperature are you pitching yeast into the starter?
2 days in starter without anything period means something is going wrong. Even if you had an 'infection' the gravity would likely be changing.
Just trying to help track down a problem.
Reviving this old thread because Union Jack is so delicious!
I'm brewing this tomorrow with WLP 200 and CTZ instead of Warrior. Plan to ferment at 65*. Curious how WLP 200 will do with this english inspired west coast IPA.
Cheers!
Mine was brewed 18 days ago...FG=1.010. Cold crashing now, keg this weekend. Tasts great.
Looking at the whirlpool hopping schedule has brought up question for me.
1. At what temp is everyone adding the centennial and cascade? I was thinking 170 but would like to see what everyone else is doing.
I'm gonna take a shot at this on Saturday. I'm going with the Bertus Brewing clone recipe here:
http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/02/ipa-clone-series-firestone-walker-union.html
Both recipes are pretty similar except for the bittering hops, and I'm not using either Apollo or Warrior. Going with Magnum. Don't expect that to change the end result.
My biggest question is that I've never done a two temperature mash. (Step mash?) I'm not sure procedurally exactly how to do it? I mash in a 10 gallon Igloo with false bottom. Do I drain all the water from the 60 minute mash into my kettle, heat it up, and then return it to the mash tun? What temp should I shoot for to end up at 155? Heat up to 165?
I have a couple more questions, but I'll wait until after this one is answered. Thanks!
You could do a blend of the GP and Pils. Maybe like 60/40. Should be good.
I agree a mixture of PILs and G.P. will be wonderful. Get low "L" Munich and go easy on the Simpsons 35L crystal.
So how did it turn out?Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I just brewed this yesterday, color looked really light, even after the first 60 mins of the boil. I ended up adding 4oz dark DME as a late addition to help compensate and it looked more inline with what I would expect. I also revised the hops based on the recipe they have listed on their site. I ran with a 002 starter. Will report back on how it turned out.
ABV: 7.0%
IBU: 60
COLOR: 8 SRM
FERMENTATION: 100% Stainless Steel Fermentation
MALTS: Premium Two-Row (Metcalf & Kendall varieties), Munich, Cara Pils, Simpson's Light Crystal
HOPS: 4 lbs/BBL: Bittering— Magnum; Late Kettle—Cascade, Centennial; Dry Hops—Amarillo, Cascade, Centennial, Citra, Chinook, Simcoe
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