C02 regulator pressure release valve VS coupler/keg release valve....

[chevyboy069]

I have beyond exhausted myself researching everything for setting up a kegerator. I recently got a Insignia Kegerator from best buy from my wife for VDAY. The Insignia manual for install is horrible and useless....

Anyways I went to local home brewery with questions. and exhausted myself. I finally almost have my Coors Light Keg (which is all I drink, and will be only thing ever in kegerator). At first I had the C02 PSI at 6-8 and it was straight foam, no stopping foam, and bearly any flow out of the faucet. Started researching PSI for Coors light, and from what I read its about 14-16psi.

I also did not notice or know there was a bleed valve on the coupler that attaches the actual keg, I just knew of the bleed release pin on c02 gauge setup.I was told to pull the pin for a second or two to make sure the actual keg is not filled with pressure

My main question is, how or when do I know to bleed both the pressure release valves from both the C02 regulator, and also purge the air from the coupler attached to the actual keg, I read you never want to have a ton of pressure from the c02 inside the actual keg, and to bleed pressure out from coupler for a second or two but when???

When I get PSI gauge to proper PSI setting I want 14-16psi, do I release pressure after and let it drop then readjust again and not bleed so it stays at the proper level?

I hope its not a confusing question, I Just don't no when I should know to bleed the air from both the regulator valve and the coupler keg valve....

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

You do realize this is a HOMEBREW forum and you first post ever says youll never have anything except Coors in the keg....that ain't gunna getcha much love around here. I assume its out of desperation and I'll help you a bit

Your fresh from car keg is shaken and needs a day or 2 to settle.
Shut off the valve on the tank and puge the entire system including the pressure in the keg through the coupler release valve....zero pressure everywhere. THen simply set to proper PSI 14 seems right for that beer and dont touch it again. THe more you mess with it the less you know how carbed your beer really is. Beer temp makes a difference. Google "co2 volume chart" and figure out the pressure setting from there. FIRST comes the beer temp then come the setting

 

[chevyboy069]

It was worth trying, I know a lot of people hate coors, but that’s what my taste is, it is what it is. I let it settle for plenty of time. The first time was useless, as soon as I set it to 14ish psi and bled the release valve on the coupler connected to beer and adjusted regulator to 14 and bled that til it was normal at 14...again I just don’t no how much carbonated I made beer in keg from the first trial run. And I also need to adjust it a tad cuz it pours out pretty fast and head is a little to much, thanks for your help though I appreciate it . Do I release all air from coupler/keg release everytime or just pull pin for a second ?

 

[Qhrumphf]

Proper carb is an equilibrium of temperature and pressure. From there it's having lines sized so that they're providing the right backpressure. Too long or too short are both problematic and can cause foaming.

Stock kegerators typically come with lines that are WAY too short.

The quick rule is 1 ft of line per PSI. And for a standard lager at 38 degrees, 14 PSI is good (though if you're not drinking regularly might drop that to 13).

The keg has to stay under that pressure. Dropping the pressure or bleeding it off will make the beer go flat, and start causing breakout in your line making foaming worse.

 

[Qhrumphf]

Basically, assuming your kegerator came with the 4-6 feet of line that many box store kegerators come with, you need to go buy and install longer line.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

It was worth trying, I know a lot of people hate coors, but that’s what my taste is, it is what it is. I let it settle for plenty of time. The first time was useless, as soon as I set it to 14ish psi and bled the release valve on the coupler connected to beer and adjusted regulator to 14 and bled that til it was normal at 14...again I just don’t no how much carbonated I made beer in keg from the first trial run. And I also need to adjust it a tad cuz it pours out pretty fast and head is a little to much, thanks for your help though I appreciate it . Do I release all air from coupler/keg release everytime or just pull pin for a second ?

Set it and forget it...once set at the correct psi you dont touch it tll the keg is kicked.
Look up "Perlick flow control faucet" and buy it...Dont think about...just buy it...it will help with all your foaming issues....your welcome...now start making beer,,,makes ya feel like Jesus...turning water to beer

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Basically, assuming your kegerator came with the 4-6 feet of line that many box store kegerators come with, you need to go buy and install longer line.

Opening the can but thats just not true. The reason, in my mind, you need longer lines is because most use corny kegs with skinny little dip tubes that were designed for super carbed soda.

The op is using a sanke. I run my sanke kegs at around 12 psi with zero foaming issues and 4 foot lines. I have the flow control but never use it..maybe in the summer when the tower is warmer but thats only for the first beer...and not even always

 

[chevyboy069]

See that’s the thing...everyone always argues back n forth about the long line hose, some say I need at least a 10 foot line, some say the 6 foot one it came with is fine. I probably already messed up the beer in keg by messing with the pressures so much and stuff. I also am still clueless on when to release pressure from the coupler valve attached to keg, and if I’m suppose to release all pressure entirely from keg or just tad. I get when adjusting regulator bleed valve to proper psi level if I go above I will need to bleed it a tad but. I’m slowly learning, I hope to know about the bleeding valves completely by time I get next keg so I’m not ruining/messing with carbonation of beer

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

See that’s the thing...everyone always argues back n forth about the long line hose, some say I need at least a 10 foot line, some say the 6 foot one it came with is fine. I probably already messed up the beer in keg by messing with the pressures so much and stuff. I also am still clueless on when to release pressure from the coupler valve attached to keg, and if I’m suppose to release all pressure entirely from keg or just tad. I get when adjusting regulator bleed valve to proper psi level if I go above I will need to bleed it a tad but. I’m slowly learning, I hope to know about the bleeding valves completely by time I get next keg so I’m not ruining/messing with carbonation of beer

If you bleed the keg when you get it, or any other time for that matter, your just releasing the AIR pressure ABOVE the beer. It has nothing to do with the beer carb level...Thats infused in the beer and takes time to fizzle out. You just dont want to let it sit like that THEN youll carb levels will drop to flat beer....a quick purge to zero PSI has no effect on the carb level of the beer whatsoever.

 

[chevyboy069]

Sit like what??? do you mean, don't let air sit in keg ever? always release ALL the air from the pressure release valve, instead of just some, like meaning bleed out all the air from keg til nothing else comes out? whenever I replace keg, always just turn the valve on the regulator off right. I don't ever need to turn the actual knob on c02 off. and when I go to tap keg, bleed the coupler for a second when tapping it, and then never touch it again? And if I have to adjust regulator to required psi after taking keg off, and replacing it, ill just need to bleed regulator pressure valve til it goes to normal psi setting I want?

I appreciate everyones patience, being I keep asking really dumb questions. I just don't want to waste anymore beer, or ruin any future kegs with messing with pressures and the release valves.

 

[Qhrumphf]

Opening the can but thats just not true. The reason, in my mind, you need longer lines is because most use corny kegs with skinny little dip tubes that were designed for super carbed soda.

The op is using a sanke. I run my sanke kegs at around 12 psi with zero foaming issues and 4 foot lines. I have the flow control but never use it..maybe in the summer when the tower is warmer but thats only for the first beer...and not even always

All the draft line experts in the world disagree with you. The narrow dip tube of a corney keg if anything will increase the back pressure and decrease foam.

Sorry, but you're just flat out wrong.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

All the draft line experts in the world disagree with you. The narrow dip tube of a corney keg if anything will increase the back pressure and decrease foam.

Sorry, but you're just flat out wrong.

I'm not claiming to be be a physicist..at all. Every draft line expert in the world can say whatever they want.

What I know for fact is I used to run corny kegs and had foam issues.

I now run sanke kegs with 4 foot lines with no foam issues...what so ever..Summer with a tower a TAD but thats it...Certainly not enough to run 12 foot lines.

But going back to what you've said and I've said it before....with all the "expert" draft line people in a multi BILLION dollar beer industry ALL use sanke kegs...are your going to say they havent done their research and are serving from a WORSE keg...I dont think so...If corneys served better in a multi billion dollar industry they would have ALL adapted the technology but NOBODY did....Not sure how you could explain that differently but I'm willing to listen...again I run 4 foot lines without issue...and thats with a tower that gets warm. With a keezer with no tower it would be a zero issue

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

As to the OP

The tower is warmer than the fridge where the beer is...the lines are in the tower...warm lines causes foam. Once the beer settles down a couple days pull the tap full throttle...never halfway. If after the first beer your 2nd and 3rd and 4th back to back are ok the issue is the warm tower and thats never going to go away and part of kegging

 

[chevyboy069]

Ok, no need to argue because honestly....my post is about D couplers anyway, I will only be using 1/4 and and 1/2 quarter size and D couplers. Are frozen glasses good or bad to use. And I Have seen tower cooling fans, which run inside the fridge and have a line going up the tower to keep it constantly cold. Are they a gimmick and useless? They also say the cooler fans circulate air in the fridge which my kegerator does not have a built in fan, so the bottom of fridge is usually 40 degrees, while the top sits at like 32

 

[TennBrewer]

I don't know if this will help the situation. I am a homebrewer and I use corny kegs. I have a 2-tap kegerator and my lines are 1/4 inch diameter and about 6 feet long. I have no foam issues. I don't know about sanke kegs but if you get the diameter right, you might want to take a look at this website: http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Ok, no need to argue because honestly....

Stick around....it only gets better. This is the tip of the iceberg

 

[Qhrumphf]

No bar or taproom is using 4 ft lines. Some are using draws upwards of 60 feet and pushing a gas mixer blend. The same physics apply to sankeys and corneys.

I use sankeys too. You are providing bad, incorrect information.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

No bar or taproom is using 4 ft lines. Some are using draws upwards of 60 feet and pushing a gas mixer blend. The same physics apply to sankeys and corneys.

I use sankeys too. You are providing bad, incorrect information.

The information I provided was correct.
I run 4 foot lines and it works better then the short line I ran with corny kegs and every beer sold under the sun comes in a sanke...both are fact. Not sure how you could dispute that

 

[Qhrumphf]

There is no difference between corney and sankey. You have flow control and probably adding resistance to the line, which is why your lines work. Or, your experience is good enough *for you* but not actually that good, in line with nonsense you've posted elsewhere on this forum. Your experience is highly questionable.

To the OP, look up a draft line calculator. That will help you get the right line length. DO NOT keep the keg unpressurized. Consult chart. Stick a cup of water in your kegerator and read the temp of it, then find the equilibrium pressure for the CO2 volumes you want (I'd be looking 2.7-2.8 volumes for Coors Light but higher would probably be fine too). If you're only drinking periodically, set the regulator to that pressure. If you're drinking it multiple times a night, round up to the nearest whole PSI and add one.

Then leave the keg under pressure at that level. Shutting off the CO2 flow is ok (although I'd leave it on unless you're walking away for a few days), but don't bleed off the keg.

Between that and a line calculator you will get a good pour.

This is advice as provided by PROFESSIONALS who set up PROFESSIONAL DRAFT SYSTEMS.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

There is no difference between corney and sankey. You have flow control and probably adding resistance to the line, which is why your lines work. Or, your experience is good enough *for you* but not actually that good, in line with nonsense you've posted elsewhere on this forum. Your experience is highly questionable]

You can differ all you want but dont tell me my experience is questionable. I've been brewing beer long enough to know what works and what doesn't

My posts are nonsense?
This forum isnt an engineer forum its a beer forum.....lighten up on your graph paper Francis...you might actually enjoy yourself

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Stick a cup of water in your kegerator and read the temp of it, then find the equilibrium pressure for the CO2 volumes you want (I'd be looking 2.7-2.8 volumes for Coors Light but higher would probably be fine too). If you're only drinking periodically, set the regulator to that pressure. If you're drinking it multiple times a night, round up to the nearest whole PSI and add one.

Then leave the keg under pressure at that level. Shutting off the CO2 flow is ok (although I'd leave it on unless you're walking away for a few days), but don't bleed off the keg.

Talk about questionable...Wheres the cup of water...At the top of the keg...in the middle...at the bottom....TOTALLY overkill and half information at best

And wait....You advise everyone to adjust there PSI BY ONE PSI depending on how they're drinking that night...Are you even kidding me....now we're talkin real nonsense.

Shut off the reg if your not drinking for a few days....are you kidding with that nonsense?
Its a sealed pressurized system.. It will be the exact same carb level in 2 months regulated by the REGULATOR...thats why they call it that....this is such ridiculous advise its not even funny

 

[Qhrumphf]

Water will tell you the liquid temp of the beer. More reliable than the air temp.

1 PSI accounting for opening the system when pouring. If you leave it like that without pouring carb will increase. But if you don't, carb will constantly be slightly less than desired. Either way it's a marginal difference perception wise, but this is the suggestion as trained by the people who build almost all the sankey keg valves on the planet.

And shutting off the gas is a mere leak prevention measure. Doesn't impact the carb. I don't bother unless I'm going out of town.

With that, and with your fingers in your ears hearing what you want to hear from this and other threads, you're off to the ignore list.

OP, feel free to listen to this chap at your own peril on this or any other topic.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Water will tell you the liquid temp of the beer. More reliable than the air temp.

1 PSI accounting for opening the system when pouring. If you leave it like that without pouring carb will increase. But if you don't, carb will constantly be slightly less than desired. Either way it's a marginal difference perception wise, but this is the suggestion as trained by the people who build almost all the sankey keg valves on the planet.

And shutting off the gas is a mere leak prevention measure. Doesn't impact the carb. I don't bother unless I'm going out of town.

With that, and with your fingers in your ears hearing what you want to hear from this and other threads, you're off to the ignore list.

OP, feel free to listen to this chap at your own peril on this or any other topic.

Thank you for that....when you only like to hear yourself speak you ignore everyone else...perfect...bye bye now

 

[Cantina De Jefe]

I have beyond exhausted myself researching everything for setting up a kegerator. I recently got a Insignia Kegerator from best buy from my wife for VDAY. The Insignia manual for install is horrible and useless....

Anyways I went to local home brewery with questions. and exhausted myself. I finally almost have my Coors Light Keg (which is all I drink, and will be only thing ever in kegerator). At first I had the C02 PSI at 6-8 and it was straight foam, no stopping foam, and bearly any flow out of the faucet. Started researching PSI for Coors light, and from what I read its about 14-16psi.

I also did not notice or know there was a bleed valve on the coupler that attaches the actual keg, I just knew of the bleed release pin on c02 gauge setup.I was told to pull the pin for a second or two to make sure the actual keg is not filled with pressure

My main question is, how or when do I know to bleed both the pressure release valves from both the C02 regulator, and also purge the air from the coupler attached to the actual keg, I read you never want to have a ton of pressure from the c02 inside the actual keg, and to bleed pressure out from coupler for a second or two but when???

When I get PSI gauge to proper PSI setting I want 14-16psi, do I release pressure after and let it drop then readjust again and not bleed so it stays at the proper level?

I hope its not a confusing question, I Just don't no when I should know to bleed the air from both the regulator valve and the coupler keg valve....

Just dilly dilly the thingymajig

 

[Pkrd]

I'm not claiming to be be a physicist..at all. Every draft line expert in the world can say whatever they want.

I had 8 Physicists drinking foamy beer here last week and nobody told me it was because I was at 15 instead of 12 PSI. They just asked for more beer.

OP. Set and forget at 12 PSI. Get lines longer than you think you need, because you can always make them shorter. Or if you start homebrewing you can use that time to reflect on how amazing it is you can produce delicious beer at home. Because you can.

If you're getting foam on the first pour but not the one immediately after you have a cooling problem in your tower.

 

[jason613]

I don't know if this will help the situation. I am a homebrewer and I use corny kegs. I have a 2-tap kegerator and my lines are 1/4 inch diameter and about 6 feet long. I have no foam issues. I don't know about sanke kegs but if you get the diameter right, you might want to take a look at this website: http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/

My lines are also about 6 ft long in my keezer, with corny kegs and i seldom have any foaming...8psi is my serving pressure

 

[day_trippr]

So your beer is slowly flattening...

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Well there it is....half the people responded with 'get longer lines" the other half have no problem with short lines....welcome to the forum

 

[LAHammer]

This is fun [emoji482][emoji41]
Keep it coming guys!!
( I love it when experts get involved. We all learn so much!)

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I had 8 Physicists drinking foamy beer here last week and nobody told me it was because I was at 15 instead of 12 PSI. They just asked for more beer.

Exactly. Your all jacked up with your shiny kegerator and just want to have fun with it and someone throws a Quantum physics book in with the one page directions. What fun is that.

 

[Pkrd]

Exactly. Your all jacked up with your shiny kegerator and just want to have fun with it and someone throws a Quantum physics book in with the one page directions. What fun is that.

How did you know?

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

How did you know?
View attachment 613526

Now thats funny. I cant believe you actually own a Quantum Physics book.
I think I might pick one up and leave it on the coffee table so when my blue collar friends come over I can tell them " I'm just brushing up"

 

[jiMithing83]

Now thats funny. I cant believe you actually own a Quantum Physics book.
I think I might pick one up and leave it on the coffee table so when my blue collar friends come over I can tell them " I'm just brushing up"

Mine is only quantum physical chemistry, should I upgrade? Please respond.

 

[chevyboy069]

Ya this fridge blows big time...thermostat settings blow, and I put a tower cooler fan in today and now have to re experiment all over again with my two thermometers(one at top of fridge and one at bottom) trying to see what new temperature stays consistent at with the new fan cooler sort of circulating the air within the fridge