BruControl: Brewery control & automation software

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I have my Crydom MCPC Proportional Controllers:

I have the AA-1 Analog Amplifier.

I am not sure how to wire the two together. I know the 110 vac Hot Load and P2 GND is correct but as for P1 and P3?
AA1-2.png
crytdom mcpc.png
 
Another avenue for industrial level controls that should be compatible with BruControl: https://www.automationdirect.com/open-source/features/maker-in-industrial-out. Will depend on how they connect I/O, but a pretty cool option!

They are $$ but ARE UL.

Will depend on how they connect I/O: Via Pluggable Modules that plug into the side.

Ethernet Module: https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...AM-ETH&categoryId=0&TxnNumber=-1&searchqty=10

GPIO but you have to buy the pluggable screw block as well: https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...M-GPIO&categoryId=0&TxnNumber=-1&searchqty=10

and others.




I thought this was interesting. The standard to an Arduino Mega is 5.5 volts (VCC+.05)

1.png
 
Those AutomationDirect.com controllers/modules are quite compact and would allow for a seriously small but capable enclosure. I rather like the concept and execution. Getting easy expansion like that for analog IO (voltage and current), various output options, etc. is really convenient. I think the question about how IO is connected is not so much about how they are hooked up physically but rather how the IO is "hooked up" in terms of its communication and configuration in the firmware type of thing. At least that was my take on the IO statement. I.e. could BruControl be made to communicate with and configure these expandable IO modules such that they function. There are a number of things that work in the world of Arduino that do not currently have a place in the world of BruControl (Like a HX711 amplifier or a White Labs Tentacle). There is also real documentation with them as well. Something seriously lacking with "maker" orientated components. Having to bend pins on shields and other "lightly" documented hacks like that is just an example of what poor documentation can lead to. Perhaps I am asking too much to want to fully understand what a manufacturer has going on under the hood of the product they make and I try to deploy :)
 
I have my Crydom MCPC Proportional Controllers:

I have the AA-1 Analog Amplifier.

I am not sure how to wire the two together. I know the 110 vac Hot Load and P2 GND is correct but as for P1 and P3? View attachment 669480 View attachment 669481

DISCLAIMER: I don't know what model you bought, so this of the 0-5V, 0-7V, or 0-10V versions. You must tune the AA-1 output BEFORE connecting it to the MCPC. Without a legit schematic (and even with, for that matter), I'm really guessing at your parts, power supply, wiring, etc. and can't be responsible if you damage anything or hurt anyone. I'm happy to advise but can't do the engineering for you.

P1 and P3 to V+ - and that must be in range of 8-32 V DC.
P2 to GND
P4 to OUT+
 
DISCLAIMER: I don't know what model you bought, so this of the 0-5V, 0-7V, or 0-10V versions. You must tune the AA-1 output BEFORE connecting it to the MCPC. Without a legit schematic (and even with, for that matter), I'm really guessing at your parts, power supply, wiring, etc. and can't be responsible if you damage anything or hurt anyone. I'm happy to advise but can't do the engineering for you.

P1 and P3 to V+ - and that must be in range of 8-32 V DC.
P2 to GND
P4 to OUT+

Good answer. I do not know but I think I will be reselling them on EBAY as they are MCPC2450Ds and a MCPC2459Ds

The D on the end is 4-20mA. I really want to get MCPC2450A or MCPC2490A (O-5V)


I thought they were switchable but these are not.
 
The P1AM Base Controller is the chip that directs communcations between the SAMD21 and the P1000 Modules. A P1000 Series power supply or external 24V supply is required to power the Base Controller and modules. The communications with the SAMD21 are SPI based and use 5 total pins. Pins 8, 9 and 10 can be shared with other SPI devices. A3 and A4 must not be used on any shield if using the base controller functionality of the P1AM-100

Pin Function
8 MOSI
9 CLK
10 MISO
A3 CS
A4 ACK

Looks like they are using SPI for communication with the P1000 modules.
 
What’s a cost effective way to get an HMI on panel? Can someone give me a run down on the components needed?

The other idea would be to use a monitor tho I’m not sure what is needed for this.
 
The user interface is the output of the computer which is running BruControl. You create the HMI there.

This is not like a PLC where you need a separate, programmable HMI. Hope that makes sense - if not, please restate your question with some additional specifics of what you are trying to do.
 
What’s a cost effective way to get an HMI on panel? Can someone give me a run down on the components needed?

The other idea would be to use a monitor tho I’m not sure what is needed for this.


It's just a touchscreen computer monitor.
 
So those running a panel mount monitor have a computer running on the side. The panel has a video in port which ties to the computers video out at graphics card?

Can someone recommend a cheap touch screen monitor? 10” x 6” or so
 
Brucontrol is ran from a computer so, yea. I ran a normal 24" monitor, "powered" by the PC that runs BC, did some disassembly of that monitor and mounted it to my panel.

You can basically go usb to hdmi, or appropriate connection for what ever montior you want. I am sure there are plenty of small hdmi/usb touchscreens for arduino/rpi that could work.

However cheap, and HMI/touchscreen/etc don't go in the same sentence.
 
Brucontrol is ran from a computer so, yea. I ran a normal 24" monitor, "powered" by the PC that runs BC, did some disassembly of that monitor and mounted it to my panel.

You can basically go usb to hdmi, or appropriate connection for what ever montior you want. I am sure there are plenty of small hdmi/usb touchscreens for arduino/rpi that could work.

However cheap, and HMI/touchscreen/etc don't go in the same sentence.

What about something like this to keep everything internal to panel?

https://www.amazon.com/Fanless-Comp...t=&hvlocphy=9032297&hvtargid=pla-894510767034
 
Is there a particular reason you want a touch screen? If you have space, why not a 40-50" television? Lots of screen real estate, and you can use it for other purposes in the brewery, like watching your favorite sporting event.

No I just assumed it would be touch screen, failed to realize BC needed a PC...at this point I agree a monitor or TV is better
 
I used my laptop initially for my brew day display. A touch screen is way more convenient to use than a mouse. Worth the extra cost IMO
 
You do not need a touchscreen but the user interface was designed for it. I personally like the convenience of one.

That said, just like enclosures, you can’t have one that’s too big. More real estate for elements on your workspace is more betterer.i would skip a small screen (~10”) unless you have a very simple setup, only a couple of devices, and no scripting.

Obviously they aren’t cheap but can be found on eBay etc. I got a 22” unit in perfect shape a couple of years ago for a reasonable price.

If you slave your screen to another TV or monitor, I suggest you use matching resolutions.
 
I use the touch screen on my laptop. I have an HDMI Splitter and also have a 50 in Smart TV Mounted Above my panel that is a wired Ethernet Connection. I have a space for my laptop that is handy in the brewery. I am planning to use Digital Ins for flow control (Next Step) and Alarm Silence with a Momentary LED Push Button Switch. All of my interfaces are wired Ethernet or WiFi.
 
Repeating connect/disconnect from ESP32 via serial connection. Pin 15 is pulled down via 47K resistor (should I try a stronger pull down?). It was fine before my cpu rebooted. This seems to only occur when my cpu reboots?

ESP guide says that pin 15 outputs a pwm at boot. Is that what your resistor is for?
 
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My wiring plan. Just hooking up the Panel this Sunday. Hoping to do a Test run with water on Monday.

File Attached
 

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Speaking for me here... while I appreciate the graphics, it would be very difficult for me to offer any feedback of wiring accuracy on your pictoral. I would need a schematic in order to be able to give you an honest assessment. For example, it seems the UniShield is not being used. Do you have 3 MEGA's?
 
No need to comment as I am sorta just showing my progression. I have digital outs, Pids, counters, digital ins, Extra control wires, 10k probes (and some extra wiring for future probes, RTD probes, proportional valve wiring. I Also run two 18/18 awg for the uni and the future mega in this panel. I plan on two Mega(s) and one UNI. I also have two ESP 32 Wi-Fi for tilts. One of the Mega is already installed near my router. I do not plan to use it except to control the other Mega with some “fake” elements. For example, I have two digital outs on different workspaces to control my yellow pump. They look exactly the same and have the same actions. There is a special script so if one is on, the other is on. Once we get the Aliases, I can get rid of my Global labels. I do use a global to tell me who is on first. The Middle Mega is there if I want to go something in the future. I have DIN rail mounts and Ethernet cable and power for it
 
OK I just want to check the Control Wiring off the AA-1
This is the first time I have used a Proportional Controller.

I have a MCPC1250C crydom which is 120vac 50 amp with 0-10v input.

The AA-1 is powered with a 12v transfomer. The 12+ is to the V+ of the AA-1 The 12- is to the AA-1 GND (Supply Side)

The Out1 Pot has been set to 10 v max.

The Out1 is connected to P4 of the crydom MCPC1250C

Out1 V+ is connected to P1 and P3 of the crydom MCPC1250C

The Out1 GND is connected to P2 of the crydom MCPC1250C


I have also included My PID Element using the "default" recommended startup settings.

Any comments?
aa1 Crydom MCPC 1250C.png
RadiatorPid.png
 
Looks right.

Minor nits: I would use red for your power and yellow for signal... but that's just me. Also, call a ground signal ground (GND), not 12- or negative, because technically there is a "negative 12V" level voltage. Additional confusion can creep in when you have 12-, 5-, etc. Finally, if you say "transformer", it could be interpreted as 12V AC, so "power supply" is better wording. Again - minor, but for the sake of
 
O.K. Thanks. I have some inherited wiring and Black is GND , Blue is 5+ vdc and Yellow is 12 + vdc. I use lots of colors for controls. I can sorta read schematics and have just a general understanding of electronics. This has been a journey for me.
 
I am trying to plan my wiring and settings for the UNI Board.

I have mine set up with a Mega and a Ethernet shield. (BTW, the shields play together well!)

I have read and re read your instruction sheet.

The first question I have is power to the interface.

It looks like you have several choices.

I have 4 power DC sources available for the UNI.

1. Wall Wart Power Supply.
2. 24 vdc Power Supply
3. 12 vdc Power Supply
4. 5 vdc Power Supply

Prior to any Options, set Power Switch to VR Only!
Adjust Power Pot PRIOR to any other Power Switch position.


Obviously there are a lot of Options since you have a DC-DC built into the board.
Option 1: VR Only
1. Wall Wart Power Supply. Obviously the easiest as you simply plug into the Mega. But this uses the on board Mega regulator that may overheat. Leave Power Switch to VR Only

Option 2: Use VR -> VIN and On Board DC-DC

2a. 24 vdc Power: Attach GND to Riser GND and 24 + to VS. Adjust Pot to 7v (7-9v). Then set Power Switch to VR -> VIN.
3a. 12 vdc Power: Attach GND to Riser GND and 12 + to VS. Adjust Pot to 7v (7-9v).Then set Power Switch to VR -> VIN.

Option 3: Use VR -> 5V and On Board DC-DC

2b. 24 vdc Power: Attach GND to Riser GND and 24 + to VS. Adjust Pot to 5v exactly. Then set Power Switch to VR -> 5V.
3b. 12 vdc Power: Attach GND to Riser GND and 12 + to VS. Adjust Pot to 5v exactly. Then set Power Switch to VR -> 5V.
4b. 5 vdc Power: Attach GND to Riser GND and 5 + to VS. Adjust Pot to 5v exactly. Then set Power Switch to VR -> 5V.

I am thinking that Option 2: 3b (12 vdc down to 7v) is the best option. Are any options preferred?
 

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